29 posts tagged "James Kaliardos"
Twists And A Tonal Palette, Backstage At DVF
A few pops of color in the form of statement lips at shows like Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu, and Donna Karan (more on that in a bit) notwithstanding, we’ve been noticing a more muted makeup trend for Spring: the tonal palette. The process requires the precise placement of complementary and contrasting neutral shades with both cool and warm undertones. “It’s a bit like paint-by-numbers,” makeup artist James Kaliardos said at Diane von Furstenberg where he had smudged about ten different shades of MAC’s versatile Cream Colour Base onto a clear, plastic plate-cum-mixing tray to custom-blend pigments for each model’s skin tone. Inspired by “modern Africa” (a favorite of von Furstenberg’s diverse muses), Kaliardos sculpted cheeks and lids with color slightly darker than each girl’s complexion and added dimension to eyes by building in a lighter center and inner corner area. Lashes were curled and swiped with mascara while brows were strengthened using MAC Eyeshadow in Omega.
Hairstylist Orlando Pita sculpted sixties silhouettes with a French twist, following the shape of the head. “It ended up looking like Kim Novak,” Pita said, drying strands with T3 Plump Heat-Seeking Liquid Hair Plumper and adding a hefty amount of its Control Hairspray for an “earthy, rustic, and fresh” matte texture. To put his own stamp on the classic look, Pita started the style at the top of the head and rolled it down, pinning as he went. “Usually twists go up,” he pointed out.
Cleansing Waters: Even Salma Hayek Uses Them
On a recent Thursday afternoon, we had the pleasure of having lunch with Salma Hayek to talk Nuance, her new skin, hair, and makeup range for CVS. Hayek, who for the record has an impeccable—and Botox-free—complexion (“don’t think I have not been tempted, but I have done nothing,” she insists), is incredibly passionate about the range, which is rolling out to the drugstore chain this month. “I didn’t do a lot of market research,” she said of the 100-piece line. “This is just what I have found that works,” including tepezcohuite, a tree bark native to southern Mexico and Brazil that regenerates red blood cells and acts as a seriously potent antiaging agent. The extract was a favorite of her grandmother, a cosmetologist who frequently shared her DIY beauty secrets with Salma. What we found most interesting about Hayek’s musings on gloss (“I’m not much of a lip glosser),” tips (“the most important thing you can do is wash your face at night”), and equal-opportunity age defying (“it shouldn’t be a luxury; it should be a right”) was the fact that the self-proclaimed beauty junkie doesn’t wash her face with soap in the morning. The fact that soaps can be stripping and drying, two things that can inadvertently age your skin, isn’t news—which is presumably why the Cleansing Water movement is gaining steam stateside. Part makeup remover, part toner, these no-rinse hydrating fluids are popular in Europe and are a great way to refresh your skin in the morning without being abrasive. They also happen to be a favorite with backstage regulars. “They’re moisturizing,” makeup artist James Kaliardos said yesterday at Diane von Furstenberg (more on that in
a bit). Kaliardos prepped model’s complexions with Klorane’s Soothing Makeup Remover
with Cornflower. “Avene makes a good one, too,” he said—as does Bioderma. Its Solution Micellaire Créaline TS H20 starts showing up once the collections move to Milan and Paris, as it’s only available across the pond. You’ll have a few more stateside options soon, though. “I’ve got something coming out,” promises Hayek, who recommends an at-home remedy in the meantime: Mix one part rose or lavender essential oil with one part soy powder and two parts water. Shake and apply to a cotton pad; store in the refrigerator.
Backstage At Richard Chai, Surf’s Up In The Pacific
After a relatively bare-bones Fall makeup season, we got a hint of Spring’s traditionally festive color palette during the men’s shows (of all places), when statement-making lip colors hit the runway on more than one occasion. Today, that same sense of in-your-face color turned up at Richard Chai, where makeup artist James Kaliardos was whipping up a beauty homage to what he called “Japanese surfer girls.” That meant creating a clean base and adding pops of color to eyes and lips in a rainbow of pigments including MAC’s Chromaline in Orange and Process Magenta, which were alternately blended across eyes. But as was the case back in June when Scott Sternberg tinted male models’ mouths at his Band of Outsiders Pitti presentation in Florence, our attention was immediately drawn to lips like Lindsay Wixson’s, which were painted a shade of bright purple thanks to a mix of MAC’s Violetta Lipstick, its Chromagraphic Pencil in Hi-Def Cyan, and its Paintstick in White. A custom-blended cobalt blue was Kaliardos’ other pout perfector of choice. Think of it as your favorite pot of eighties colored zinc made runway-ready.
NYFW Backstage Beauty Alert: Alexander Wang x Sally Hansen
We’re still on a two-and-a-half-week countdown until the Spring shows get under way here in New York, but the invites have already started flooding in, bringing word of exciting things to come. Our first surprise came last week when we learned that NARS, not MAC, will be sponsoring the makeup look at Rodarte, breaking a five-plus-season streak for the beauty brand. The Mulleavys’ trusted face painter, James Kaliardos, will still be at the helm, only now he’ll be using François Nars’ well-curated, finely tuned color palette.
In other makeup news, Rachel Zoe has partnered with Maybelline for her second, more full-scale runway endeavor, which means that Exude, the lip color brand that Zoe fronts as brand ambassador, will presumably not be making a cameo along with her Spring collection.
But the biggest piece of news we’ve managed to track down so far came today: Alexander Wang will join Prabal Gurung and Tracy Reese as the beneficiary of his very own nail color collection from Sally Hansen. The lacquers, Wang’s first official beauty effort, will debut at his Spring show and should prove as covetable an accessory as his studded It bags. Fingers crossed a few bottles are tossed into the gift bags.
Seeing Red
We’ve yet to see spring’s bevy of full eye shadow looks play out on the street—or the red carpet, for that matter—but last night at the Tribeca Ball in New York, Leelee Sobieski took one of the season’s more challenging iterations out for a spin. Making like Dick Page at Narciso Rodriguez back in September, the actress experimented with rust-colored pigment, sheering it out into an elongated almond shape across her lids, then dragging it underneath her lower lash line. A generous helping of mascara amped up the drama. The russet color is tricky to translate onto eyes, although it has been done successfully in the past—by a pasty-faced Jack White, and courtesy of James Kaliardos at Viktor & Rolf’s Shalom Harlow-fronted Spring 2009 presentation. What do you think of its latest cameo?