37 posts tagged "James Kaliardos"
Last season, the beauty look at Olivier Theyskens’ Theory show was very much a reflection of him at the time. The designer had just sheared off his shoulder-length hair in favor of a chin-grazing crop, and hairstylist Odile Gilbert subsequently gave models the same cut via pastel-colored wigs. For Fall, Theyskens’ beauty team, which includes James Kaliardos on makeup and Jin Soon Choi on nails, was thinking more about Theyskens—and his woman—in the future.
“I’m a big futurist,” Kaliardos said backstage. “I like to think of a time when we can go to bed and get injected with vitamins and wake up feeling better—and looking like we have perfect skin,” he continued of the kind of makeup he was striving to achieve. Starting with a base of MAC Mineralize Charged Water Moisture Gel to fully hydrate the complexion, Kaliardos mixed its Prep + Prime Beauty Balm with its Face and Body Foundation in White for an ethereal glow. Contouring cheeks with is Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut—”So the girls look like they have overhead light on them at all times,” he joked—Kaliardos employed pink and peach pigments from MAC’s Concealer Palette to create a “plump-y, fleshy-y” effect. Lips were taken down with MAC Lip Erase before Kaliardos applied a few dabs of its Lipstick in Au Natural. Nails got a similarly clean, perfected treatment with one coat of Choi’s new eponymous lacquer in Tulle, a sheer cream, finished with two layers of glossy top coat.
Odile Gilbert was thinking similarly futuristic thoughts when she prepped strands with Kérastase Resistance Ciment Thermique Heat-Activated Reconstructor Milk and constructed severe center parts that segued into a “veil” of precisely straight flatironed locks. “We’re creating headbands with their own hair,” she said of front sections that had been tucked behind the ears and gathered into a ponytail at the nape of the neck before being covered with lengths. “It’s a future young girl on Earth,” she emphasized; “not Star Wars.“
Being a designer backstage on the day of your own show comes with a few perks—including on-site touch-ups with some of fashion’s best hair and makeup people. “Can you do what you did before,” Diane von Furstenberg beseeched James Kaliardos as he was applying the show’s look to a model in his chair. Von Furstenberg was looking to re-up on her ruddy smoky eye—and to dole out a few words of wisdom in the process. “The idea with the color,” she said, motioning to the MAC Chromagraphic Pencil in Process Magenta that Kaliardos was blending with its Lip Conditioner for a semimatte finish, “is whatever you’re doing, close the deal.”
“It’s a look that makes you win in life,” Kaliardos continued of the seventies glam-rock makeup, which featured diffused red lids, courtesy of MAC Cream Eyeshadow in Rusted Red from its forthcoming Fall trend palette that he blended with its Cream Eyeshadow in Oyster, a shimmering champagne, to add a highlight to the inner corners of eyes. Sculpting skin with warm shades of MAC Face and Body Foundation, Kaliardos filled in brows with its Eye Shadow in Omega before swiping on a few coats of its Haute & Naughty Mascara to enhance the drama. Toes were painted with a combination of Essie’s fuchsia Plumberry and Miami Nice to match models’ mouths.
Orlando Pita added to the “life is a party” inspiration—von Furstenberg’s party, specifically—with seventies-style sets that he side parted and treated to a few spritzes of his T3 Elevate Heat-Seeking Iron Volumizer hair spray and a one-and-a-half-inch curling iron to implement a slightly disheveled wave. “Diane is about inspiring women,” he said, prompting him to skip hair extensions to avoid total uniformity, catering instead to models’ individual lengths.
Between the nonstop shows, the potential for inclement weather, and a party schedule that can make you tired just looking at it, fashion week is an incredibly grueling seven days—no matter who you are. From makeup artists and designers to front-row regulars and street-style hopefuls, everyone needs a little pick-me-up when the Fall collections descend upon New York. Here, ten of our favorite insiders open up their makeup bags to reveal the beauty essentials that help brighten up even the darkest moments.
“A modern-medieval face” is what the tip sheet James Kaliardos was passing around to his team backstage at Rodarte said, but there was more to it than that, of course. “The collection feels Dungeons & Dragons to me, not Joan of Arc,” Kaliardos elaborated, referencing the austerity of old religious paintings and “getting rid of the Kim Kardashian look—forever.”
That meant skipping those familiar, heavily bronzed contours and focusing instead on a paled-out complexion that was treated with NARS Skin Optimal Brightening Concentrate and a light-handed application of its Sheer Glow Foundation just in the center of the face, “because once it gets on the cheeks, it actually looks like foundation,” according to Kaliardos. There wasn’t much visible product on the face at all, really, save for NARS’ Triple X Lip Gloss, which was swathed onto mouths and eyelids and applied through girls’ brows as well, including show-opener Jessica Stam’s. “Can you fix me,” Stam beseeched Kaliardos, who added a little fullness, too, at the model’s request.
Odile Gilbert was working off the proportions of Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s designs. “When they showed me the clothes, I thought [the girls] needed something long,” Gilbert said, referring to the hair, which she made “strict and straight” to accommodate a dragon earring cuff clipped onto models’ left ears. “It’s like the girls are shaved,” she explained, slicking strands with Kérastase Ciment Thermique for a pre-blow-dry polish, and dividing them into three sections: two in back—one hanging straight down over the other—and one in front, which was combed all the way over to one side and coated with its Elixir Ultime for added shine.
The finishing touch came from the most conceptual neutral nail we’ve seen this week. “It took 200 man-hours,” CND manicurist Michelle Huynh said of the three-dimensional polish-on-polish basketweave tips that showcased a blended base of its varnishes in Desert Suede and Frosting Cream. Nude, it turns out, doesn’t necessarily mean boring.
James Kaliardos and Orlando Pita don’t have to look too far to find beauty inspiration at Diane von Furstenberg, where they often reference the designer herself—from her Studio 54 days to her more recent globe-trotting jaunts to the far reaches of Africa, India, and beyond. But for Spring, von Furstenberg wanted something else. “After looking at four different hair tests on four different girls, she turned around and said, ‘Can we do that?’” Pita recalled of the moment Diane decided to make the look more about the models’ individuality and less referential of her own.
“These girls already have these amazing gifts of beauty, so we just want to enhance them,” Pita said of strands that came in center-parted, side-parted, straight, and wavy iterations—all of which mixed seamlessly with von Furstenberg’s colorful, varied collection. There was one curly girl, too, which afforded Pita the unavoidable opportunity of paying homage to the woman behind the brand. “[Katryn Kruger] looks a little like Diane so we’re going to do her hair like [Diane's].”
Kaliardos went with a more uniform makeup look, which started with a base of MAC’s new-for-spring Mineralize Moisture Fluid Liquid Foundation, some slight contouring with its forthcoming Sculpting Cream in Pure Sculpture, and a “ruddy, healthy, punchy” cheek courtesy of its Blushcreme in Tea Petal. “We’re using the same palette, but tailoring the look a little bit for each girl,” he explained of the slightly smoked-out lower lash line that he intensified or pared down with a stroke of MAC’s Pro Chromagraphic Pencil in NC15/NW20 and its Eyeshadow in Antique and Espresso. “It has a slight Indian vibe,” Kaliardos admitted of the dark, elongated shape as he added a few whips of MAC Haute & Naughty Mascara on the top and bottom lash lines and affixed a few individual lashes on the outer corners—which only served to make models like Kasia Struss and Joan Smalls look that much more gorgeous in their own unique ways.