4 posts tagged "Jason Wu for Lancôme"
Last time I spoke with Wu, the designer told me to expect a look—and true to his word, he delivered. Seeing as the collection was a bit of a departure from his more structured silhouettes (boasting more fluid, feminine shapes with corset detailing to provide an element of control), the makeup also took a slightly different turn. Instead of the vampy shadow seen at past seasons, face painter Diane Kendal, who helped create Wu’s namesake line for Lancôme, opted for a softer, half-moon-shaped cat eye, accented with warm rose gold glitter. “It [looks] like glamorous sand,” Wu explained at the hair and makeup test. And while Kendal tried a version with black and silver hues during the fitting, the of-the-moment metallic was ultimately decided upon because it felt more like summer and provided that feeling of “sunshine,” she says.
Kendal based the skin and eyelids (giving the glitter something to grip onto) with Lancôme Teint Visionnaire Skin Correcting Duo, then warmed up the cheeks with a light dusting of Blush Subtil in Cedar Rose. To create the spotlight-stealing eyes, the makeup artist sketched Le Crayon Kôhl in Black Coffee along the “banana” and slightly down toward the outer corner before diffusing the line with a fluffy brush. Over top, Kendal added a shimmery camel shadow from the Color Design Eye Brightening All-in-One 5 Pan Shadow & Liner Palette in Bronze Amour—leaving the middle of the lid bare. Jason Wu for Lancôme Artliner in Noir was applied thinly along the upper lash line for definition, and Hypnôse Star Mascara was added for extra drama. Using a damp brush, fine glitter was applied to the center and up to the crease as the finishing touch.
The long and lush tails were no surprise, as the designer was not shy about his affinity for the utilitarian classic. “There are many iterations of T-shirt, tank, and slipdresses within the collection that feel like normal things that you glamourize through lace or beading,” Wu said. “The ponytail is the hair [equivalent] of that.” After working Kérastase Fibre Architect (a reconstructing serum that helps soften split ends) and a liberal misting of Gloss Appeal (a shine spray launching in October) through strands, hairstylist Odile Gilbert flat-ironed sections for a sleek finish before using the end of a rattail comb to create a crisp center part. The length was pulled into a low pony, which was then wrapped with blunt-cut extensions that hit just above the bra line, framing the lace-up detailing on the backs of multiple pieces. Any flyaways were smoothed back from the forehead with Short Mania (a pomade also out in October) and shellacked with La Laque Couture hair spray. To carry through the metal theme and cap off the look, Gilbert snapped in a gold or rose gold clip from Colette, an accessory stylist Kate Young discovered while in Paris. Models with cropped cuts, like Karen Elson—who last sported this length in the Chanel campaigns of the nineties—and Karlie Kloss, were given slick, pushed-behind-the-ears styles. “Everyone feels a little bit more secure with their hair down,” Gilbert said. “But when you make your hair look like this, you have nothing to hide—you feel very strong about yourself.”
“My entire makeup collection growing up was made up of gifts-with-purchase. When my mom would buy her face cream, usually Clinique or Lancôme, she would give me all the samples. I had everything—from tiny lipsticks to fragrances like White Linen and Cinnabar [from Estée Lauder].”
Above, we pay homage to the superstylist’s humble beauty beginnings with Jason Wu’s GWP for Lancôme, which was inspired by a lace-print raincoat from his Fall 2013 collection. While he chatted with us about the cosmetic bag during a recent interview, we didn’t see it in person until the designer’s hair-and-makeup test yesterday afternoon (naturally, Young was there to finesse the look and put in her two cents). It is, in fact, the chicest freebie we’ve ever seen. Good to know that we can rely on Wu to keep his word.
Although I can’t reveal much from the designer’s hair-and-makeup test (let’s just say, if I disclosed all the beauty deets before showtime, Wu might send his posse of cats with sharpened claws—he’s a self-proclaimed “cat lady”—my way), I will tell you that some of my initial predictions after my last chat with him are right on point. (He also does a killer impression of stylist Kate Young and the face she makes when she likes and dislikes something, or when she feels backed into a corner regarding a decision.) There will be long and luxe tails—though not of the feline variety. And the metallic of the moment, rose gold, is sprinkled in multiple places throughout the look. Expect the most sparkly and sophisticated interpretation of sand you’ve ever seen, as well as lots of masking tape backstage to catch the “fallout.” I’m missing the beach already.
As for next season, there might be a ZannClip involved (shown above). Wu spotted it on the back of a model’s dress at the test, thinking it was an added design element, though it was simply a convenient place to stash her hair accessory. Wu asked his team, “How fast can Amazon deliver those?” I think it’s safe to say they’ll arrive in time for Fall 2014.
Expect the full report tomorrow, after the models hit the runway.
Last night, I sat down with Jason Wu to chat about his new 15-piece collection for Lancôme. There were rumors of a collaboration backstage at his Fall 2013 show, but now the designer finally divulges all the deets:
Out of all the beauty brands to choose from, why partner with Lancôme?
Lancôme makes some of the most luxurious and beautiful products in the world. I’ve made it no secret that I’m a beauty junkie and I love makeup. It’s always been such an important part of my shows, and I felt like this was a really natural progression for me.
The eye-shadow palettes are completely customized and the shades were chosen by you and are exclusive to your collection. Where did your inspiration for the colors come from?
My inspiration came from, literally, my career. I’ve always loved to use color in many different ways—sometimes subtle, sometimes really bold. I took a collection of my favorite colors and put them into makeup in a way that was wearable, sophisticated, and a statement all at the same time.
There’s a bit of a beauty backstory to the final look from your Fall 2013 show. Let’s talk about that.
We were still in development with the makeup during the last show, and the purple [now available in the Violet Streak palette] was one of the first colors [I chose]. It actually inspired the colors for my [Fall] collection, because we were thinking about using it on every girl’s eyelids. And I said: “Why don’t we put a purple dress at the end?” It just felt so right. Actually, incorporating the makeup colors into the palette of the collection was really interesting to me.
Why did you choose navy mascara over black?
Who doesn’t want navy mascara? Navy is a color that looks good on everyone, and I use it all the time [for my runway collections]. To me, it’s the chicer cousin to black. It just felt like something women would want and all the girls I work with will want. It’s a really interesting twist on a classic.
I noticed there are a lot of variations of red in the line—three crimson-colored lipsticks and three nail polishes.
For my first collection—my first of many collections—with Lancôme, I decided that I wanted to do the three basic reds that every woman should have in her arsenal: a bright red, a medium red, and a burgundy. [Red] is something that’s so glamorous, I had to make it for my collection.
When should you ideally wear each shade? Is it seasonal? Or is it more of a day-to-night concept?
Bright red is really good for spring/summer because…it’s just chic. And burgundy is a great wine color, so why wouldn’t you want it for fall/winter?
What about the shade in the middle?
There’s always a place for red lips! For that mood, and that mood, and every mood in between [points his finger three separate times] there’s a red. Wouldn’t you agree?
Definitely. Are you for wearing a bold lip and eye together?
I like to play up one feature, but I think it’s always about the balance. When you accentuate the lip, it’s about a more subtle eye. And when it’s a major eye, it’s about a subtle lip. I think balance is quite modern.
Which piece in the line are you most proud of?
That’s a hard one, but the navy mascara. I think it’s so special and Lancôme doesn’t [carry it in its existing range], so they dug it out of their archives to make it available for this collection.
I heard you designed two gorgeous lace makeup bags to hold all of your new cosmetics.
Oh, my God, it’s going to be so chic. We had a transparent lace raincoat in the Fall collection, and I thought it would be the perfect beauty bag, so it became one.
Will customers receive one when they buy your products?
Yes, and we vow for it to be the chicest gift-with-purchase you’ll ever see!
Who was your muse for the line?
Martha Hunt. She opened my show for Fall. She’s the only girl I asked to come with me tonight for this event. I felt like the second I met her she [became] one of my muses. She just wears makeup so incredibly well. In fact, she did the hair and makeup test for this collection and looked good in everything. I felt so comfortable with [Hunt] that we finalized the collection on her.
From all of your shows, do you have a favorite beauty look?
Yes, Spring 2013: the dual-toned red lip with a defined brow on Carolyn Murphy. Best thing ever. It’s so glamorous you can’t stand it. Who could resist that?
Where do you find the time between designing for your own label and acting as artistic director for Hugo Boss womenswear to create an entire range of makeup?
I try to sleep as little as possible. That’s the secret. I just really love what I do. I’m really passionate about it. I need to do things. I need to create all the time. That’s what keeps me going.
But there must be some caffeine in the mix. What’s your Starbucks order?
Iced black coffee. Nothing else. Very simple.
You always have a true look at your shows—it’s never a bare face. Do you know what you’re doing for Spring 2014?
I absolutely do and it involves this collection, but I’m not going to tell you what it is! But it’s going to be a statement. Expect another look.
I can’t wait.
Jason Wu for Lancôme launches in September exclusively at Nordstrom and Bergdorf Goodman.