40 posts tagged "Jason Wu"
The look at Jason Wu is always glamorous, but the gold glitter sprinkled across lids last season gave way to a more subdued—but strong—brow and a flat “boyish” bun for Fall 2014. “It’s a feminine/masculine look,” said mane master Odile Gilbert.
“This is something new for him—we’ve never done messed-up [hair] before,” explained Gilbert. The sides were kept “tight” (slicked back with Kérastase Touche Perfection), but she allowed for “movement” on top. In back, she pulled the length up into a chignon, but not in the traditional sense—sections were wound and secured to form a tight mass of hair. “There are about fifty hairpins in there,” she added. “The idea is to make it as small as possible…you don’t know where it starts and finishes.”
Makeup artist Diane Kendal “enhanced all the girls’ natural features” with a light coverage foundation, and contoured their faces with the bronze shade in Lancôme’s Blush Subtil Palette in Rose Flush—dusting it underneath the cheekbones and in the banana of the eyes. The pink hue was placed on the apples of the cheeks, while a pearly highlighter was applied to the tops of cheekbones and lightly across the lids. Black liner was worked into the roots of lashes for definition before fringe was subsequently curled. Kendal’s focus remained on the arches, which were filled in with a powder in the same tone as each model’s hair so that they “didn’t overtake the face.” She also slightly elongated the brows to create the “illusion of them being straighter,” she said. A combo of balm and foundation on lips rounded out the boy-meets-girl maquillage.
Flashback Friday is a feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Laetitia Firmin-Didot
The Moment: Bold Baubles
The Motivation: There was many a gem on the Spring 2014 runways—and we’re not talking about your standard bangle or statement necklace. The soft, braided updos at Dolce & Gabbana were laden with treasures, ranging from leaves to antiquelike gold coins. Jason Wu got in on the action with rose gold barrettes, while a sprinkling of iridescent flowers decorated ponytails at Honor. And it’s not just this season that we saw various accessories affixed to models’ heads: For Fall 2013, Rodarte offered up barbed-wire headbands, Meadham Kirchhoff embraced diamante barrettes, and Dolce & Gabbana once again sent out a bevy of luxurious crowns (this time inspired by the Byzantine Empire). While we don’t suggest you head to work wearing a tiara, we do encourage the use of a few choice jewels—such as the subtle yet elegant choices in this image, shot by Neil Kirk for British Vogue.
With holiday fêtes fast approaching, red lipstick is soon to be my weapon of choice. (It’s the one thing I can put on in the back of a cab and look instantly festive.) However, with all of those tiny bites being passed around and bottomless glasses of bubbly, keeping your color intact can be a challenge. Sure, you can fill in your lips with a matching pencil, which in turn dries them out faster than a brisk walk through a blizzard sans balm. Or you can try makeup guru Diane Kendal’s trick to keep pigment in place and crimson from bleeding outside the lines: Using a synthetic brush coated in foundation, lightly work the base around the perimeter of your mouth, then seal it with translucent powder before slicking on your go-to shade. No nineties rim of waxy liner, no chapped lips—just a bold, budge-proof pout.
Last time I spoke with Wu, the designer told me to expect a look—and true to his word, he delivered. Seeing as the collection was a bit of a departure from his more structured silhouettes (boasting more fluid, feminine shapes with corset detailing to provide an element of control), the makeup also took a slightly different turn. Instead of the vampy shadow seen at past seasons, face painter Diane Kendal, who helped create Wu’s namesake line for Lancôme, opted for a softer, half-moon-shaped cat eye, accented with warm rose gold glitter. “It [looks] like glamorous sand,” Wu explained at the hair and makeup test. And while Kendal tried a version with black and silver hues during the fitting, the of-the-moment metallic was ultimately decided upon because it felt more like summer and provided that feeling of “sunshine,” she says.
Kendal based the skin and eyelids (giving the glitter something to grip onto) with Lancôme Teint Visionnaire Skin Correcting Duo, then warmed up the cheeks with a light dusting of Blush Subtil in Cedar Rose. To create the spotlight-stealing eyes, the makeup artist sketched Le Crayon Kôhl in Black Coffee along the “banana” and slightly down toward the outer corner before diffusing the line with a fluffy brush. Over top, Kendal added a shimmery camel shadow from the Color Design Eye Brightening All-in-One 5 Pan Shadow & Liner Palette in Bronze Amour—leaving the middle of the lid bare. Jason Wu for Lancôme Artliner in Noir was applied thinly along the upper lash line for definition, and Hypnôse Star Mascara was added for extra drama. Using a damp brush, fine glitter was applied to the center and up to the crease as the finishing touch.
The long and lush tails were no surprise, as the designer was not shy about his affinity for the utilitarian classic. “There are many iterations of T-shirt, tank, and slipdresses within the collection that feel like normal things that you glamourize through lace or beading,” Wu said. “The ponytail is the hair [equivalent] of that.” After working Kérastase Fibre Architect (a reconstructing serum that helps soften split ends) and a liberal misting of Gloss Appeal (a shine spray launching in October) through strands, hairstylist Odile Gilbert flat-ironed sections for a sleek finish before using the end of a rattail comb to create a crisp center part. The length was pulled into a low pony, which was then wrapped with blunt-cut extensions that hit just above the bra line, framing the lace-up detailing on the backs of multiple pieces. Any flyaways were smoothed back from the forehead with Short Mania (a pomade also out in October) and shellacked with La Laque Couture hair spray. To carry through the metal theme and cap off the look, Gilbert snapped in a gold or rose gold clip from Colette, an accessory stylist Kate Young discovered while in Paris. Models with cropped cuts, like Karen Elson—who last sported this length in the Chanel campaigns of the nineties—and Karlie Kloss, were given slick, pushed-behind-the-ears styles. “Everyone feels a little bit more secure with their hair down,” Gilbert said. “But when you make your hair look like this, you have nothing to hide—you feel very strong about yourself.”
“My entire makeup collection growing up was made up of gifts-with-purchase. When my mom would buy her face cream, usually Clinique or Lancôme, she would give me all the samples. I had everything—from tiny lipsticks to fragrances like White Linen and Cinnabar [from Estée Lauder].”
Above, we pay homage to the superstylist’s humble beauty beginnings with Jason Wu’s GWP for Lancôme, which was inspired by a lace-print raincoat from his Fall 2013 collection. While he chatted with us about the cosmetic bag during a recent interview, we didn’t see it in person until the designer’s hair-and-makeup test yesterday afternoon (naturally, Young was there to finesse the look and put in her two cents). It is, in fact, the chicest freebie we’ve ever seen. Good to know that we can rely on Wu to keep his word.