36 posts tagged "Jean Paul Gaultier"
If you had a slight feeling of déjà vu upon seeing the spiky black wigs marching down Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway in additional shades of auburn, chestnut, and platinum blond, your mind was playing tricks on you. “It’s like a toupee or a bang,” Guido Palau said of the “patchwork” effect he was hoping to achieve with the deliberately cheap-looking hairpieces here, which were not to be confused with the similarly choppy, high-end crops he hand-dyed and -cut for Marc Jacobs last month. “A lot of people want to see short hair this season and most girls don’t want to cut it,” Palau explained of his recent reliance on wigs, which offer a temporary solution to the predicament. “It’s supposed to look like a girl’s hair that is colored and grown out,” he elaborated of the faux trims here that were meant to deliberately contrast with models’ natural strands where they met as a flat panel in the back. There was a slight nod to the eighties-era androgynous stunner Leslie Winer, although Palau was content to speak to the style’s “punky, boyish, concert-y” quality, which he fashioned using Redken Control Addict 28 High Control Hairspray.
“The brows really help balance it out,” he said of the way Lloyd Simmonds’ “masculine, yet feminine” makeup look complemented his coifs. “There’s a really dark frame to the face, so we needed a dark frame to the girl’s personality. You get a personality with a brow,” Simmonds explained, using a matte black eye shadow to fill in arches while keeping the skin fresh and glowing with YSL’s La Teint Touche Éclat Illuminating Foundation, and a little pressed powder to reduce the risk of shine. A light dusting of blush in shades of light rose and warm gold—”whatever looks good with [the girls'] skin tone”—finished the face.
“Indian goddesses,” came the call backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture show yesterday, which caused hairstylist Odile Gilbert to spring into action accordingly. French-braiding models’ hair up the back of the head, Gilbert worked lengths into a high beehive before bringing them back down in a single long, swinging braid. “We texturized hair a little, but other than that it’s just hair spray,” she said humbly.
“The original gypsies were actually from India,” makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds chimed in, doing his part to expand upon the theme with heavily pigmented black pencils to create the kind of elongated, kohl-rimmed eyes found on Hindu sculptures. “I found a vinyl finish that’s super shiny,” he continued of the Rubotan Line Liquid, a Japanese discovery, and L’Oréal’s Super Liner Black Lacquer, which gave lids a greasy finish. “I love the way that looks right now,” Simmonds divulged of the texture. Using crystals as faux nose rings, beauty marks, and, on occasion, full-on face adornment, Simmonds finished with a few rows of faux lashes, using sparkly silver powder on the inner corners of the eye to open them up a bit.
Stick-on face jewelry aside, complexions were comparatively understated for a Gaultier show, a dearth of vibrant color that was made up for on—wait for it—models’ feet, which were turned electric shades of saffron, fuchsia, blue, gold, and silver with sponged-on Kryolan Aquacolors and finished with matching pedicures. Hey, it sure beats wearing stockings.
Beauty baubles have always been just fine by us, but Lisa Hoffman just made her perfumed trinkets that much more covetable by enlisting the, er, packaging services of jewelry designer Tom Binns. Yes,we would wear that aromatic necklace-turned-diffuser, pictured above. [WWD]
Bye-bye, back-combed bump; hello, frosted lipstick, questionable highlights, and a noticeably-thin frame. Sarah Palin gets a makeover, Hollywood style. [The Cut]
Ben Affleck’s shaggy, side-swept hair in the new flick Argo was not a Justin Bieber homage, OK? “I am a big fan of Justin Bieber’s, but I was not trying to emulate his haircut,” Affleck insists. “I felt like I was more of a Kurt Russell in Escape From New York vibe.” [CBS]
Let it be known: Pulling out one gray hair will not make two more grow in its place, according to Philip Kingsley Clinic trichologist Elizabeth Cunnane Phillips. It won’t prevent that single silver strand from growing back either, however. [Huff Po]
Jean Paul Gaultier has just released his latest bottle design for Diet Coke, which features a tattooed female silhouette—and an equally inked-up Daisy Lowe as spokesperson. [Telegraph]
When charged with the kind of daunting task that he was given last night at Jean Paul Gaultier, makeup artist Stephane Marais brings his usual product arsenal with him—as well as a few additions. “It’s like Ben Nye,” the makeup artist explained, name-dropping the popular American professional line when describing Maq Pro, a similarly conceived company based in Paris. “MAC Pro?” we asked, perplexed, knowing full well that a fairly large, internationally recognized face-painting operation already exists with that name. “Maq Pro with a Q. They make a lot of colors,” Marais elaborated of the brand founded by the famous French cinema makeup artist Michel Deruelle. Handing us its Fond de Teint complexion correcting stick, Marais explained that he planned to take a little artistic liberty with at least one model in Gaultier’s eighties tribute band. “I’m going to give her skin a blue-black tint,” he said, motioning to a tearsheet of Jean Paul Goude’s 1981 Blue-Black in Black on Brown portrait of Grace Jones in which the photographer gave his flat-topped muse indigo contours. “Only Ajak [gets it],” Marais said of Ajak Deng, one of five catwalkers to play Grace Jones on the runway. It made for a pretty cool show highlight—and as we managed to locate the Maq Pro boutique at 2 Ter rue Alasseur in Paris, it also provided us with another “extracurricular activity” (read: shopping excursion) to add to our schedule for the week.
There were seven Madonnas backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier, five Grace Joneses, four Boy Georges, seven David Bowies, three Annie Lennoxes, six Jane Birkins, four Abba members, and seven Sades—seven!—which all but cemented the fact that the eighties R&B songstress is having a moment at the Spring shows. “It’s a variety of eighties pop stars,” Guido Palau confirmed, prepping a sea of wigs for different characters while elaborate mood boards hung against the wall. “Sup-er!” a busting Gaultier chirped next to Palau as he examined Hannelore Knuts’ fire engine red Annie Lennox crop while Amanda Leer had her hair set in rollers for a bombshell blow-out (Leer, it should be noted, was playing herself). “I buy them in new York and Josh Wood colors them in London,” Palau explained of the elaborate hairpieces, pointing out that this particular Spring beauty moment was about Gaultier’s vision, not necessarily any one product—except, of course, Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray. “You can’t forget the hair spray if it’s the eighties,” Palau joked. Humor was on Stephane Marais’ mind, too. “It has to be lighter,” Marais said of Gaultier’s latest piece of performance art. “That’s the way this house functions.” He too was working off posters lined with tearsheets of a red-lipped Sade cover from Time and a Ziggy Stardust-era Bowie snap replete with aqua-rimmed eyes, among other things, turning out 11 different makeup looks in all—which included a few costume changes that kept stress levels at a high, although no one seemed to mind all that much. “The girls love it,” Marais pointed out. “They just have fun.”