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August 2 2014

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38 posts tagged "Jean Paul Gaultier"

“Grunge Mixed With Chic,” Backstage At Jean Paul Gaultier

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The number of hair color sightings on the runway has finally abated this season, meaning that the few instances of artful streaks and contrasting mid-lengths we’ve spied backstage are that much more remarkable in their occurrence. Guido Palau proved that he could do ombré with a twist at Prada in Milan, and he put his stamp on purposeful roots at Jean Paul Gaultier.

“We’re doing a bit of freestyling,” the super-stylist joked of the “graffiti stripe” he was spray-painting onto either side of a middle part that had been built into long extensions. Blowing hair dry with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-Dry Lotion, coating it with its Iron Silk 07 Ultra-Straightening Spray before flat-ironing and then adding a bit of Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist to the ends, Palau applied a heavy-handed spritz of Redken Forceful 23 Super-Strength Finishing Spray to create a base for his silver, black, pink, orange, and blue color panels. “This is quite androgynous because it’s so long, so you get a little Joe Dallesandro,” Palau explained, referencing the Warhol superstar along with seventies California hippie chicks who never cut their hair. “There’s always a sense of humor at this show.”

Stephane Marais picked up on the Warholian, seventies reference as well. “Jean Paul said to me, ‘Remember that time at Studio 54—the girls were so fucked up and they looked amazing?” Marais asked, setting the stage for “the grunge mixed with chic” makeup look he was after. This necessitated a “fucked up, beautiful” eye that he created by lining the inner rims with a black kohl pencil and then using a liquid liner to press on erratic strokes along the top lid and underneath the lower lash line, which he ultimately jostled with his finger. Then he applied a heavy grease paint to the roots of the lashes and asked models to blink, after which he used a thin painter’s brush to hand-destroy the line even more. “I’m fixing it,” he laughed.

It was a departure from the play on the “madame” archetype that we’ve seen here over the past few seasons, when classic glamour elements like red lips, perfected brows, beehives, and forties sets have been given punk details, like gray extensions, fake tattoos, and nail rings. It’s still the same vibe, though, Marais assured us. “It’s just a different madame.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

The Fifties Get Fetishized, Backstage At JPG

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As certain beauty trends continue to turn up for Spring—wet hair, bright lips, and monochrome makeup among them—there’s one seasonal muse that just won’t quit. “It’s fifties-inspired,” Guido Palau said, giving yet another nod to the mid-twentieth century backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier with “dressed” hair that was prepped with Redken 10 Guts Volume Spray Foam and divided into three sections. Center-parting two front panels, Palau rolled hair over foam cushions to create density before sweeping remaining hair into a high, tight chignon. “It’s very saucy,” he continued of the look—and it had to be, considering Gaultier’s shout-out to postwar fetishism.

“It’s also very Jean Paul,” makeup artist Stéphane Marais added, discussing the designer’s decision to have a few “real” girls among his models, inspiring the bevy of temporary tattoos and piercings that he sent down the runway. “They’re meant to be extensions of the fabric,” Marais said of about five different inked designs that were applied to arms, necks, and décolletage—”wherever there is skin, but not on the face. The face is for me.” Starting with a clean complexion, Marais built off his handiwork at Gaultier’s Couture show a few months ago. “It’s a little girl who wants to look made up and is obsessed with a really red, glossy lip.” Channeling Guy Bourdin images and a certain “Saint Laurent sophistication,” Marais applied a precise coat of the bright crimson pigment from MAC Pro’s dual-ended Longwear Lipcolor in Lasting Lust before swinging it around and dipping into its high-shine clear gloss. Filled-in brows and false lashes finished the look. (Pro tip: For increased ease of application, Marais recommends waiting at least 30 seconds after applying glue before adhering lash strips to lids.)

But wait—there’s more! Manicurist Isabelle Pain enhanced the retro S&M vibe by hand-piercing acrylic nails that had been painted with two coats of Debby Lacquer in ColorPlay #25, a bright red. She used a truly archaic-looking piercing gun to get small, silver ball rings onto two to three of each girl’s fingertips. A small safety warning: Do not attempt on natural nails unless you have at least a half-inch of length to work with.

Birds Of A Feather Flock—And Sing, And Dance—Together For Jean Paul Gautier

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In keeping with a ballet theme (one with the obligatory Black Swan inflection), Jean Paul Gaultier mandated a beauty look at his Couture show fit for stars of the stage—and for good reason. Ultra-French chanteuses Zizi Jeanmaire and Mylène Farmer were among the many models and muses Gaultier called up for runway duty this morning. Translated in makeup terms, this meant a seriously artful eye and classic crimson lip, which were executed with precision by famed face painter Stephane Marais. “The real star was the eyeliner, but since in my opinion none of the companies who used to do good ones still do, we mixed it up ourselves backstage using theater makeup, which really holds,” Marais said of the flicked-out strokes he drew along both top and bottom lash lines. To get the “true-true” red he wanted on mouths, Marais raided his personal stash of lipstick bullets from his own discontinued signature line.


An iconic songbird, Farmer closed the show wearing a huge ostrich feather number, which echoed the incredible feather hair accessories coif-master Odile Gilbert concocted for the occasion—the second time Gilbert has turned to exotic plumes in Paris this week. Anyone wondering where the feather theme came from got their answer at the post-show party launch of Gaultier’s new men’s fragrance, Kokorico (a name borrowed from what the French coq crows). Billed as “chic, torrid, and full of panache,” Kokorico is a heady mix of cedar, patchouli, vetiver, fig, and the paradoxical (read: bitter) side of the cocoa bean, signed by perfumers Olivier Cresp and Annick Menardo. Buff Basque hunk Jon Kortajarena stars in the fragrance’s campaign—himself clad in a black feather ensemble, in which he dances up a storm for the Kokorico TV commercial set to air later this fall. “I did nothing but dance for one and a half days before [the shoot],” the male model laughed of the prep work that went into his latest role. “It was hard but really fun.”

 

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

Trend Alert: Beauty For The Boys

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While perusing the Spring 2012 menswear shows in Milan and Paris over the past few days, we noticed a surprising trend: lipstick. Makeup for men isn’t necessarily a new phenomenon. Jean Paul Gaultier famously launched a collection of eye pencils under his Monsieur line a few years back, and nail companies like Manglaze capitalized on guys’ inner desire to play with lacquer long ago. But other products—lipsticks specifically—have yet to cross over. Until now. Makeup artists Stefania Caramelli and Alessandra Casoni painted models’ mouths a powder-y shade of white/blue at Scott Sternberg’s Band of Outsiders Pitti presentation in Florence, and Israeli born Central Saint Martins grad Ehud Joseph showcased a sunny yellow lip at his show in Paris last night. Is this the beginning of pout perfectors for the boys? Unclear. But things do seem to be moving in that direction; last week we were introduced to a new skincare line called Recipe for Men that includes a Concealer (in three shades!) among its complexion enhancing offerings. You tell us.

Photo: Filippo Fior / GoRunway.com; Kristy Sparow / Getty Images

Cameron Diaz Just Says No To French Fries; Kate Middleton’s Wedding Day Fragrance, Revealed; And More…

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How has Cameron Diaz managed to look so svelte recently? “I’m off the fried foods,” the actress confirms. A newfound gym addiction, it seems, has necessitated some cutbacks. “If you’re gonna do heavy lifting, and you want to stay small, you have to watch what you eat.” She’s got the ripped guns to prove it. [Fashion Etc]

More FiFi Awards news: Halle Berry will be crowned Celebrity of the Year at the event on May 25, and Fergie will receive the New Fragrance Celebrity of the Year Award in recognition of her debut scent, Outspoken. Jean Paul Gaultier will be honored with the 2011 FiFi Hall of Fame award, which was presented to Michael Kors last year. [WWD]

If you find yourself preoccupied with regional UV indexes, you can chillax. La Roche Posay has launched a free app that lets you know just how strong the sun is in your area at any given time. [Bella Sugar]

The whole world knows that Kate Middleton chose McQueen for her wedding dress. But here’s a bit you may not be aware of: The Duchess of Cambridge was wearing White Gardenia Petals by Illuminum, a British niche fragrance brand. Good luck getting your hands on a bottle, ladies. There’s already a lengthy wait list. [Daily Mail]

Speaking of fragrances you can’t get yet, it’s been confirmed via Twitter that Rihanna is already working on a sequel to her first olfactory effort, Reb’l Fleur. [Just Jared]

Photo: Getty Images