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April 21 2014

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2 posts tagged "Jean-Paul Guerlain"

Couture in a Bottle: Roja Parfums

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RojaWe wax lyrical on the connection between beauty and fashion, but in the case of luxury fragrance brand Roja, choosing and creating a scent is truly as intricate and detailed as constructing an haute couture gown. Roja Dove, a master perfumer who studied with Jean-Paul Guerlain for more than twenty years, offers a bespoke service; a unique, one-of-a-kind fragrance goes for $20,000-plus. That’s not an insignificant sum, but it’s far less than the cost of a made-to-measure dress. And the process is much more personal. “Customers have been known to cry upon smelling their completed perfume,” says Dominic Venton, the company’s director. In a series of consultations with Dove, you are asked to judge a scent—not knowing its name or origin—and your immediate reaction is noted. The result is a perfume that consists of as many (or as few) notes as you like. Dove insists on only the highest-grade ingredients. To produce one kilo of the Rose de Mai oil he uses requires 307,000 roses from Grasse, picked before dawn, because the amount of oil they can produce diminishes as the sun rises. “No synthetics are used,” says Venton, “so no Roja scent will smell like another on the market.” In addition to the bespoke business, there are 17 women’s scents on offer, ranging from heady florals to masculine chypres. Roja recently launched at Bergdorf Goodman, its first (and only) U.S. location. “Roja strives to offer a fragrance that is as bespoke as possible,” says Venton. “Having to travel to a specific destination makes it more special.” Lucky for us, Bergdorf’s is a quicker trip than journeying to Paris to get measured for an haute couture creation.

Roja Parfums are available at Bergdorf Goodman, New York. Prices range from $389.40 to $990.

Guerlain Debuts The Work Of Idylle Hands

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After hosting a few private dinners through the month of June in honor of its new fall scent Idylle, the House of Guerlain used the backdrop of couture week to invite selected members of the press to behold the fruits of its labor at its Champs-Élysées boutique last night—lest Armani’s grand-scale publicity efforts for its new Idole get all the glory. The rose-centric fragrance marks the first women’s offering from newly anointed nose Thierry Wasser, who is also the first house perfumer in the company’s illustrious history who does not bear its eponymous last name. “One of Guerlain’s signatures is to respect what is the most simple,” explains Wasser, who came on board last year when Jean-Paul Guerlain essentially adopted him after his own son chose law over beauty. “So I created an impressionistic expression,” Wasser continues, “a bouquet made of joy, love, and happiness.” Starting with a rose plucked from the private garden of Jean-Paul Guerlain himself, Wasser added seasonal flowers as he went along—peonies, lilac, freesia, jasmine, and lily of the valley—which he shaded with chypre, a nod to Mitsouko and Nahéma, his two favorite Guerlain creations. The result is a sensual yet light fragrance that is being marketed as “an ode to a moment in time, whether past, present, or future.” Rising French actress and singer Nora Arnezeder is the face of the ad campaign while bottle designer Ora-Ito marks a new chapter in the brand’s history with what he calls “simplexity”: a shape that is both simple and complex, recalling a golden droplet inspired by the myth of Zeus and Danae. The fragrance will be launched exclusively at Saks on September 21.