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September 1 2014

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20 posts tagged "Jil Sander"

Jil Sander—and Her “Keen Eye for Pure Beauty”—Make a Comeback

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“I worked with Jil a lot on campaigns a long while ago—with Guinevere [Van Seenus], in the old days,” Pat McGrath said backstage at Jil Sander, where the old days all of a sudden seemed new again. Van Seenus made a surprise runway appearance this week in Milan, and today, Jil Sander returned to helm her namesake line for the first time in eight years.

“The DNA [of the brand] was always very simple, but there was still something going on with the makeup,” McGrath continued, slipping back into flashback mode when describing the Spring beauty look, which had all the same elements of nineties-era Sander—the tonal lids and lips, the filled-in arches, and the clean skin—but with a slight nudge of modernity that came by way of a creamy highlighter that was blended onto cheekbones, temples, and eyes to catch the light as girls walked the white-on-white concave runway. “There’s a lot of maintenance,” McGrath explained of the bulk of her backstage duties, which included everything from eyebrow plucking and brow recoloring to exfoliating with Olay Regenerist Pro-X Cleanser and applying SK-II Signs Eye Masks to girls in need of a little de-puffing. “They really do work!” she proclaimed of the hydrating cloth strips.

Guido Palau, another one of Sander’s longtime collaborators, was feeling similarly nostalgic. “It’s kind of funny doing Jil Sander with Jil Sander,” he joked, having previously worked both with Sander and her predecessors, including current Dior creative director Raf Simons. That said, Palau is plenty familiar with the house codes, which called for “really rich, simple, simple hair.” Cue the ponytails that hung low and long thanks to blunt-cut extensions prepped with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-dry Lotion and its Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist. “It’s stick straight,” Palau said of flat-ironed strands, before gathering them into an elastic, which he “dragged down” so it didn’t sit too tight or too perfect.

“You realize how forward-thinking she was,” Palau reminisced of Sander as finished models scurried toward the dressing room to get into their clothes for the show.”She has a keen eye for pure beauty”—the kind that dominated the first half of the Spring shows and was perhaps at its best here.

Leelee’s Jil Sander Spring Fling

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Leelee Sobieski has emerged as something of a style star since she started stepping out in increasingly forward-thinking fashion—and beauty—looks with her husband, designer Adam Kimmel. “I like to experiment when I dress up,” the blond- bobbed actress told us last summer—a preference that still appears to hold true. At last night’s Vanity Fair kickoff party for the 2012 Tribeca Film Festival, the star of Robert De Niro’s new cop drama, NYC 22, plucked a look off the Jil Sander Spring runway and brought Guido Palau’s “midcentury modern, sculptured, helmet-like” hair from the show along for the ride. As frequent readers of this blog are well aware, there’s nothing we like more than when celebrities borrow full looks from the catwalk—hair and makeup included. So we’re obviously smitten with Sobieski. You too?

Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage; Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

The Magic Of Going Muted

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We’ve been charting the rise of the “un-lipstick” here at Beauty Counter for a little while now. While the allure of a bold, opaque pout perfector is undeniable, sheer, less in-your-face colors have been cropping up with frequency over the last few months, making a case for understated glamour in the process. So it was only a matter of time before the trend began to appear on the red carpet. Kate Bosworth has had her fair share of big lipstick moments—her powdery pink, Jil Sander Spring 2011 runway reprisal immediately comes to mind, although her recent crimson turn at Sundance in January was equally noteworthy—but for last night’s premiere of Life Happens, the actress chose a toned-down shade of muted rose that managed to merely enhance her natural mouth color without completely overtaking her beaded, pale yellow Prada halter dress. It was a winning combination for Bosworth, who rarely makes a fashion or makeup misstep. Don’t you agree?

Photo: Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images

Mid-Century Gone Modern, Backstage At Jil Sander

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“We approached it like any other collection,” Raf Simons’ longtime makeup collaborator Peter Philips said of the beauty look backstage at Jil Sander—the designer’s last as the house’s creative director. And while Philips’ handiwork abided by a set of codes that has long reigned here, nodding to mid-century themes updated with modern touches, it was more than just any other collection, as anyone who was in attendance at today’s show can attest.

Creating a matte pale base using either Chanel Vitalumière Aqua Ultra-Light Skin Perfecting Makeup or its Perfection Lumière Long-Wear Flawless Fluid Makeup, depending on each model’s complexion, Philips curled lashes and redrew bleached brows when needed before focusing his attention on a “soft, rose-petal” pink lip. Tracing a finite line around pouts with Chanel Lip Pencil in #32 Pivoine so that the resulting color was “very graphic, not retro,” Philips proceeded to fill in lips with its Rouge Allure Velvet Lipstick in L’Élégante. “There is no sheen, so you just see pure color,” he said of the intensity that a matte-finish mouth adds to the equation.

Redken creative consultant Guido Palau stayed apace with Philips’ general direction, crafting “the most couture ponytail” he’s done all season. “You get the feeling of a Hitchcock woman,” Palau elaborated, prepping short, side parts and long blunt-cut extensions with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-Dry Lotion before brushing hair backward and pulling it over ears for a hint of fifties-era modesty. “It makes it look very done,” he explained of the technique, spritzing the style with Forceful 23 Strong-Hold Finishing Spray to impart a “lacquered” effect.

While Palau tweeted that things got “emotional” before the show started, he was slightly more stoic in person. “There are all these flowers in glass cases, which I’m sure will be read into slightly,” he said of the almost tragically beautiful set design. But his initial feeling was shared by every single person who had the pleasure of witnessing Simons’ last dance here; maybe it was the two pre-presentation espressos I had backstage, but my knees were shaking just a little bit when Simons took his final bow.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

Jil Sander’s “Helmet-Like” Bobs, Off The Runway—And On The Streets Of New York

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We’re not going to pretend that we know a whole lot about Piper Perabo. If memory serves, she was in Coyote Ugly; that’s about all we can report. But at the New York Cares Coat Drive at Bloomingdale’s last night, we learned something else about the actress: She’s willing to take risks with runway beauty. Perabo turned up to the event sporting one of the most impressive, challenging, and utterly gorgeous coifs of the Spring season, namely Guido Palau’s slicked-back and curled-under faux bob from Jil Sander—a style which Palau himself pointed out was not easily duplicatable. But that didn’t stop Perabo, which we will definitely remember next time her name comes up. Thoughts on the sculpted look’s first off-the-catwalk cameo?

Photo: Getty Images; Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com