12 posts tagged "Jin Soon"
The inspiration for Prabal Gurung’s collection started in Mustang, a “secluded kingdom” high in the Himalayas in Nepal where the designer went trekking during a visit home. “What I really loved about the whole place was the incredible colors and incredible way of dressing—it’s almost like sportswear, because they have to layer everything,” he explained. The spirit of Gurung’s woman, however, remains the same season after season, no matter where his travels take him: “It’s a femininity with bite,” he said. For Fall 2014 he moved away from the formaldehyde-dipped strands and neo-pastel pouts created for Spring, and opted for “great skin,” “beautiful hair,” and “tactile clothes.” That element of strength key to his aesthetic comes courtesy of “natural femininity and natural beauty.”
Makeup artist Diane Kendal kept with the spirit of the clothes by using MAC Cosmetics Face and Body foundation to even models complexions, forgoing powder to create a dewy finish. Just the apples were flushed with a ruddy-colored cream blush, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Accentuate was dabbed along the tops of the cheekbones and across the center of the lids to highlight. Eye Kohl in Fascinating (a white pencil) was used on the lower waterlines to brighten, while Pro Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut was used to contour the crease and hollows of the cheeks. Brows were brushed up, filled in with a corresponding shadow (like Omega, Bark, or Concrete) and set with wax for a “bushy” finish. To tone down any redness in the lips, Kendal applied a touch of foundation to models’ mouths.
Manicurist Jin Soon also focused on simplicity, using two of the three forthcoming Sally Hansen nail lacquers in the designer’s limited-edition polish line out in September: Himalaya (a nude) and Rupee Red (a bold burgundy). The majority of girls received clean, sand-colored paint jobs, while five had a straight, vertical line drawn down the pointer, middle, and ring fingers.
Directing my attention to the designer’s mood board at the hair and makeup test, mane master Paul Halon pointed out a photo of a Nepalese woman with straight, glossy, center-parted strands—his jumping off point for the style. To re-create it for the modern, urban consumer, he used Chi Volume Booster at the roots “to give hair guts” and applied Silk Infusion to the ends before blowing everything straight with a round brush. For movement, he pulled the length up into a loose bun, spritzed it with Infra Texture Hair Spray, heated the makeshift knot using a diffuser, and finally blasted it with a shot of cold air. “When you undo it you get a little kink, but I don’t want to use a tong because it [starts to] look cosmetic very quickly,” he said. The hair was then topped off with a silver chokerlike necklace designed by Gurung, or pulled back into a low ponytail with a black band. “When they walk, it’s very light, very airy,” he said of the final result—almost like a brisk mountain breeze was blowing down the catwalk.
The blustery weather has subsided…at least for today. Keep the polar vortex spirit alive with these white-hot products. Considering the multiple appearances this shade made on the Spring 2014 runways—ranging from Altuzarra to Ralph Lauren—expect it to reign long after the ice has melted.
Napoleon Perdis China Doll Gel Eyeliner in Yang: Run a thin band of this creamy alabaster formula across your top lashes à la Kenzo Spring 2014, or use it all over your lid as a smudge-proof shadow base.
Guerlain Gloss d’Enfer in Stardust: Top off your go-to lipstick with this limited-edition shade, or wear it alone to add a hint of multidimensional shimmer to a bare mouth.
Formula X for Sephora in Cloud Nine: Inspired by the French manicure, this translucent polish provides a wash of white in just one coat. Add another layer for a more opaque finish.
Butter London Wink Cream Eye Shadow in Alabaster Gaze: Frost your lids with this silvery hue, or dab it on just the inner corners of your eyes for a brightening effect.
Jin Soon Nail Polish Toppings in Polka White: Like a blizzard in a bottle—matte, white glitter pieces suspended in a clear base look like freshly fallen snow over your standard polish job.
$18, jinsoon.com (available in March)
I’ve steadily strayed from glitter polishes not only because they require a bit of elbow grease to get off, but they aren’t exactly sophisticated or chic. Leave it to Jin Soon, however, to push the boundaries and create bottles brimming with sparkles that are more glamorous than garish. The trio of lacquers launching in November are called “holiday toppings” and, in a way, serve the same function as sprinkles dashed across cakes and cookies—lending a festive touch to fingertips in seconds. What makes this manicurist’s formulas different from others on the market is the level and type of glitter used. Two coats of Gala (center), a blend of rose gold particles, provide an opaque finish—no additional color required. Soirée (right) is composed of slashed pieces of silver and onyx foil (almost like a shattered mirror) suspended in a clear base. Fête (left), my personal favorite, features a mash-up of black, craft store-like glitter, finely milled iridescent shimmer, and metallic pink tinsel-like pieces. The best part about all three is that they can hold their own on short, bare nails—a look I intend to work from now until New Year’s.
$48 for the collection or $20 each, www.jinsoon.com
Similar to Lam’s clothing for the season, the hair was all about “structured ease,” said Orlando Pita. While some girls wore theirs down with a turban tied over top, and others sported a ponytail, all had a slightly off-center part and a natural, wavy texture. To get it, he misted Phytolaque Soie light hold hairspray all over to act as a setting lotion and used the extra-large T3 BodyWaver to add movement—wrapping sections of hair under and over the barrel to form “S” patterns. For a second-day finish, he glossed over the surface of strands—as opposed to finger-combing, which creates flyaways—with Fiber Paste. Manicurist Jin Soon also kept things simple by layering two shades of her namesake polish in Nostalgia and Tulle for a non-muddy, universal nude.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux’s response to the direction (one word: minimal) given by the designer was surprisingly not at all bare or boring. “I’ll give you three looks, how about that?” he quipped. The first one focused on rich textures—like creamy skin, a shimmery antique-gold cream shadow (part of a range developed by Lam, Pecheux, and Estée Lauder launching in January), and a moist nude lip. “I wanted to create a cuddle for the eye,” Pecheux says of the soft metallic shade. Since there was no blush, mascara, or brows, he added a subtle glow to the face by putting two drops of Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II in the palm of his hand and embracing the cheeks—leaving behind a dewy finish that catches the light.
The slightly edgier second concept built upon the first—with midnight blue eyeliner (part of the same forthcoming line) drawn in tilted rectangular shapes (inspired by the navy-checked fabric in the collection) on the outer corners of the eyes with a square lip brush. “It’s almost like you put on [a band of] liner and took two-thirds of it off—leaving only the essential part that lifts the eye,” he explained. Pecheux envisions a woman who is off to after-work cocktails or an exhibition adding this graphic element on top of her everyday shadow.
The most dramatic of the three looks accompanied the final four evening gowns in the show. This time, Pecheux sexed things up by applying the same navy liner to the inner rim and blending it onto the lower lashes—finishing with mascara for definition. “This [reflects] the lives of women today,” he says of his layered approach. “They don’t have time to take a shower, [remove] their makeup and redo it, or go back to their hairdresser for a blow-dry,” Finally, a face painter that gets me.
Liu Wen may have the Estée Lauder contract, and Sui He may have just been named the new face of Shiseido, but Fei Fei Sun is currently our favorite member of fashion’s new school of Asian supermodels. A face of DKNY fragrances and ck One Cosmetics, the Chinese knockout’s January issue of Vogue Italia—the first to ever feature an Asian catwalker on the front—is the stuff of legend. Lensed by Steven Meisel, who was inspired by Givenchy and Avedon muse China Machado, Sun is a revelation in Pat McGrath’s deep pink lip, Guido Palau’s wig-wrapped beehive, and a perfectly polished set of nails painted a shade of melon-tinged coral with Jin Soon’s new-for-spring lacquer in Tea Rose, by the manicure maven herself. Somebody get this girl a (bigger) beauty contract. Thoughts on Sun’s cover turn?