13 posts tagged "Joan Smalls"
Two hair trends we’ve seen emerge in recent months are Crayola-colored strands and bangs. Everyone from Katy Perry to Kylie Jenner jumped on the rainbow bandwagon, while supers such as Joan Smalls and Karen Elson have opted for forehead-grazing fringe. And then there are women who work both: Catwalker and frequent shade-shifter Chloe Norgaard arrived at several fetes this week with brunette roots and bangs, but polished off her look with Kool-Aid punch-esque ends. Artist Christine Sun Kim sported an electric green topknot and classic black fringe at last night’s The Narcissists Ball celebration. What can we say, when it comes to hair, this combo is all business in the front and a nonstop party in the back.
Did I borrow a line from Legally Blonde? Yes, yes, I did. That quote—said with Valley Girl-like inflection—will forever be the phrase that pops into my head upon seeing a woman with a fresh set of fringe. (What can I say, I’m a product of my generation.) And Joan Smalls at last night’s CFDA Awards is no exception. While it’s not the first time I’ve seen the super with brow-grazing bangs (she debuted a similar look at a Versace party back in January), I commend her for joining the ranks of catwalker Karen Elson and changing things up with a chop. To prevent fringe from sticking to your forehead this summer, lightly mist the underside with dry shampoo.
With summer on the horizon, everyone has beachy hair, sun-kissed skin, and dewy makeup on the brain. It’s always a welcome change in our beauty routine, though we can’t help but mourn the winter products we’ll soon have to retire. But based upon the many moody mouths that made their way down last night’s red carpet, we may not be tucking away our burgundy bullets so fast. Two of the major trends that surfaced—vampy lips and retro, side-parted waves—are typically reserved for cooler climes but looked stunning at the relatively balmy (at least in comparison to recent weather we’ve experienced) New York event. Some of our favorite moments? Suki Waterhouse’s classic wine shade; Beyoncé’s gothic hue, which played off her Philip Treacy veil; Adèle Exarchopoulos’ brown-tinged maroon pout; Joan Smalls’ shocking violet deftly paired with a soft braid; and Elettra Wiedemann’s ruby rouge, which matched her glittering gown. Dark lips were an edgy yet elegant choice—perfect for a night that otherwise offered up bow ties and ball gowns.
Retro, side-parted waves upped the glamour quotient even further. Cara Delevingne’s crop top and tuxedo pants (both by Stella McCartney) were far from traditional, but bouncy waves brushed to one side felt undeniably classic. Short-haired stars such as Taylor Swift and Reese Witherspoon added big, loose curls à la Grace Kelly, and Kim Kardashian, Blake Lively, and Riley Keough turned up with long, Veronica Lake-esque ringlets.
Our best tips for sporting these trends through the summer? Skip matte foundation, which would look too heavy-handed with dark lips, and invest in a humidity-blocking spray (like Oribe Imperméable Anti-Humidity Spray) to keep your retro waves sleek and shiny.
Tom Pecheux, backstage fixture and creative makeup director for Estée Lauder, could hardly contain his excitement last season at Anthony Vaccarello when he described the packaging that was in the works for a mysterious new line of lipsticks. He discreetly referred to the more architectural look and magnetic closures, but considering these types of secrets are strictly confidential in the corporate beauty world, that’s all he could share…until now. The cosmetics giant is launching twenty shades of Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick, a formula that boasts time-released hyaluronic acid and multifaceted pigments (available February 24 at esteelauder.com). In this exclusive, the pro reveals all—including the shades he hand-selected to suit the many model faces of the brand.
How would you describe the new Pure Color Envy collection?
When I look at the collection, the first thing I think is the packaging is absolutely divine. Richard Ferretti did an amazing job with the case. For me, twenty colors is the perfect amount. The range captures every woman’s desire. The shades and formula are [traditional] in that they have the high coverage you expect from a lipstick and include a pure red and a perfect nude, but the new technology gives the line a modern twist. It’s like a classic wool dress that is made in cashmere. The new texture and formula make Envy extremely luxurious.
What are your favorite shades in the collection?
As a makeup artist, I cannot limit myself to one favorite shade. It will be the one that fits the person that I am working with on that day.
What do you think a lipstick says about a woman?
Lipstick tells us so many things about a woman. It tells us about her personality. For example, a woman wearing a strong lipstick—bright red—suggests she wants to express a certain power.
What is the best way to apply lip color? Fingertips, brush, or straight from the bullet?
There is no recipe. It depends on the result you want to create. A bullet is the best application because it’s fast, precise, and gives nice coverage. Fingertips create a transparent finish with no precision—more like a stain. A brush is for when you want perfection and a high-quality finish, particularly when you apply a red lipstick.
What are your tricks for making lips appear fuller? Does lip liner help?
Lip liner can help, but for me, a liner only works if it’s a nude or a color that matches the color of the lip. To make them fuller, you can go slightly outside the lip line.
If you have small lips, avoid a dark shade. The darker the shade, the more intense your lips look, but on smaller lips it can give you a mean, severe look. Also avoid very pale lipsticks if you want a fuller-looking mouth.
What is your favorite lip look?
It depends on the woman. But I am totally in love with red as much as I am with nude. I love women who play with makeup to emphasize a quality of their personality or character. That’s why in terms of lipstick, I love colors that have something to say—so either a pale nude, a true red, a dark plum, or a bright color. When it comes to a gentle pink, I understand why women want to wear it, but as a makeup artist, it doesn’t reflect a personality so well.
Which shade in the collection would you choose for each of these Estée Lauder spokesmodels?
Carolyn Murphy: Envious. She loves a red lipstick.
Constance Jablonski: I love it when she focuses on her eyes, so a nude color like Insatiable Ivory works on her lips.
Joan Smalls: I love her in a dark burgundy like Insolent Plum.
Liu Wen: I would go more pink, [one that's] powerful and dynamic. A shade like Dominant would suit.
Arizona Muse: I love her in a red as well, so Vengeful Red.
What do you think makes a woman enviable?
I think Carolyn Murphy pretty much embodies that—gotta love a bad bitch on a bike who knows how to make a serious statement by slicking on some lipstick and revving up her engine.
When you’re Alexander Wang, you don’t bring Brooklyn to the fashion set; you bring the fashion set to Brooklyn. And when you bring the fashion set to Brooklyn, you better deliver something special—like heat-activated fabrics and a 360-degree finale composed of a dozen supers (including Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, Caroline Trentini, Anne V, Angela Lindvall, and Bridget Hall).
Diane Kendal and Guido Palau were tasked with creating hair and makeup that lived up to the spectacle across the river. For Kendal, that meant creating “monochrome” faces with bleached brows, light coverage foundation, a bit of contouring underneath the cheekbones and in the creases of the eyes, and a few strategic swipes of NARS Illuminator in Copacabana for sheen. “The head is very hard…so we wanted [to create] an open feel to the face—almost like mannequins,” she explained of the androgynous look.
Palau married multiple references—the sixties, futurism, comb-overs—into a lacquered style that swept across the forehead like a bang and wrapped tightly around the sides. “[The idea] was taken from an illustration that Alex had done—I wanted to do hair that was kind of drawn on,” he said. To achieve this, Palau blew strands straight using a Mason Pearson brush, made a deep side part, doused hair from roots to ends with Redken Control Addict 28 High-Control Hairspray, smoothed everything into place, and blew it dry to lock in the shape. Any remaining length was pulled into a low ponytail, which would later be concealed by cravats. The twelve models dressed in head-to-toe black (revealing vibrant shades of pink, yellow, blue, purple, and green when rotated in front of industrial vents) had their heads blasted with black powder for a seamless finish. When asked about the venue change, Palau replied, “What do I think about Brooklyn? No, it’s great.” The masses might not be in favor of crossing a bridge to get to a show, but Uber certainly enjoyed the ride.