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April 18 2014

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7 posts tagged "Josh Wood"

Who Run the World? Girls…Backstage at Prada

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PradaIt was all about rebellion this season at Prada—whether that concept was translated through application, texture, or color. “The look is simple, but there’s a darker thought to it,” said hairstylist Guido Palau. “These girls aren’t sweet and innocent, there’s a ganglike mentality to them.”

All thirty-nine models were separated into packs according hair color—a task taken on by British dye master Josh Wood, flown in less than forty-eight hours before the big event. “We’ve taken away what you’d normally add to color, like highlights and depth, as the idea is to create an illustration of a girl—[similar to] how you would draw or paint hair,” said Palau. To execute Mrs. Prada’s vision, Wood “antiqued” brown, black, blond, and red hues to lend a “singularity” to the varying tones. And while the end result was “flat,” it wasn’t lifeless. “This is [an example of] quietness in color at its highest volume,” said Wood, who went on to explain that the catwalk concept translates to the real world in the form of simpler dye jobs that are just as contemporary as their more complicated counterparts. Styling was far less of a process: Palau spritzed damp strands with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam, made a severe side part, and swept the front section low over the forehead—letting the length air-dry or using a blow-dryer and just his fingers to add movement.

Face painter Pat McGrath played up the “women in revolt” theme by leaving the skin raw (save for spot coverage with concealer), dabbing moisturizer on cheeks and clear balm onto lips. The eyes are where the real action was: She used the Temptu Airbrush Makeup System to “graffiti lids with anti-eye-shadow colors” such as muted blue, green, purple, orange, and yellow. “It’s a new medium for me,” McGrath said of the high-tech spray gun. “I’m creating imperfect makeup using a perfecting tool.” Brows were bleached to allow the scrawl across the crease to take center stage.

When it came to hair—whether it was above the eyes or on the head—the girls weren’t left with much choice. “No color, no show,” Wood said of the parameters surrounding the casting. But what model would let a little thing like a major shade change stand in her way of walking Miuccia’s runway?

Photo: Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages.com

The 411: Marcia Kilgore

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Marcia Kilgore is, to put it simply, beauty royalty. After all, she is the brains behind Bliss—first a pioneer, and now a ubiquitous presence, in the spa category. It was in 1996 that the Canadian-born entrepreneur turned her own longtime quest for clear skin into a business that would, in the years since, grow to become a vast empire, which is characterized by no-nonsense, results-driven treatments (like that iconic triple oxygen facial that first earned Kilgore many a celebrity devotee) and those signature baby blue products with the clever names. And Bliss isn’t even the only notch in Kilgore’s beauty belt; she can also lay claim to Soap and Glory, the similarly cheeky London line that reentered the U.S. market at Sephora last summer, and FitFlop! To say that the slender tycoon with the severe blonde bob is beauty obsessed would be an understatement. It goes without saying, then, that compiling her list of favorite primping and preening destinations was just a little bit of a thrill.

The One-Stop Beauty Shop: Sephora
“The original Sephora Soho store is still my favorite stop for beauty products in New York. Not only because I can do a quick ‘sweep’ of the Soap and Glory shelves, but because that strip of Soho brings back a lot of great memories for me.”
555 Broadway New York, NYC, (212) 625-1309.

The Pond-Hopping Face Places: Bliss and Sarah Chapman
“In New York it’s Beata Chyla at Bliss Soho; there’s nobody better. She’s fabulous, kind, thoughtful, extremely thorough, and has a great positive energy. In London I go to Sarah Chapman on Draycott Avenue; she’s the first facialist I didn’t feel the need to correct!”
Bliss, 568 Broadway, NYC, (212) 380-4699, www.blissworld.com; Sarah Chapman, 106 Draycott Ave., London, +44 0207 589 9585, www.sarahchapman.net.

The Hair Heroes: New York and L.A. Pros
“In New York, I generally beg for a last-minute appointment between receptionists at Garren and Yves Durif at the Carlyle. In London, it’s Kevin Moss at John Frieda, then Josh at Josh Wood Atelier or Daniel at Daniel Galvin for color.”
For more information, visit www.garrennewyork.com; www.yvesdurif.com; www.johnfrieda.co.uk; www.joshwoodcolour.com; www.danielgalvin.com.

Continue Reading “The 411: Marcia Kilgore” »

Kristen McMenamy’s White-Gold Standard

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While roaming around Paris’ Beaux-Arts, backstage at Lanvin’s Spring show, we came face-to-face with one Kristen McMenamy. The nineties supe who made brow-bleaching famous long before Pat McGrath brought it back again three years ago was doing a solid for her friend Alber Elbaz, taking to the runway for the first time in a while. Conversation promptly turned to her show-stopping mane of silver-blond strands, as these things often do, at which point she revealed that she trusts none other than Josh Wood with her hair dye—which would explain why she was front and center at the official launch party for the London color whiz’s new atelier at Liberty last night. Sporting a middle part and slightly visible roots, McMenamy embellished her locks with a gilded, Grecian headband, her second moment of, er, crowning glory this month. Thoughts on Woods’ highlighting job and McMenamy’s haute hair accessory?

Photo: Dave M. Benett/Getty Image

Lower Lash Line Love—And Kristen McMenamy—Backstage At Lanvin

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There wasn’t all that much to say about the fairly straightforward beauty look backstage at Lanvin, a moment that was condensed into a black/brown glossy smear of pigment on lower lash lines that Pat McGrath described as “cool, fresh and gorgeous.” That is, until Kristen McMenamy walked in. The nineties supe was hard to miss—her toned, yogified arms bare, her long silver mane nearly grazing her hip bones. A personal friend of designer Alber Elbaz, McMenamy planned to walk the Beaux Arts runway at his request, despite feeling a little rusty. “You’re a supermodel, you’re a supermodel,” she said aloud, repeating the confidence-boosting mantra before the show began. And then there were those strands, a white-gray hue with highlights, courtesy of London colorist-to-the-stars Josh Wood, which sparked a gray trend after McMenamy appeared at Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2011 Louis Vuitton show with her silver locks twisted into an updo (and her torso painted with black and white zebra-striped body paint). “I put oil in [it] everyday, put it in a long braid, and that is my look,” the incredibly personable catwalking queen told us, shouting out palm oil as her recent emulsifier of choice. Then, mid-sentence, she spotted her Polaroid on the casting board and gasped. “They got me blinking!” she screeched, grabbing our pen and drawing an impromptu pair of sunglasses over her eyes. Believe us when we tell you, dear readers, that had it been socially acceptable to rip that picture off the chart to save as a piece of S/S 2013 ephemera, we would have done it without, er, blinking an eye. Thank God for the iPhone.

Photo: Luca gorunway.com / Gorunway.com

Liberty Mutual

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Just a year after opening his much-discussed Atelier salon in Notting Hill, London’s color king, Josh Wood (an Elle Macpherson, January Jones, and Guido Palau favorite), is preparing a double-pronged attack on the beauty world this fall. For the likes of Meisel and Mario, his Atelier Agency will open to share the hairdressing talent he’s rounded up from around the globe; and for us mere mortals? A second salon, which will debut on October 15 in Liberty of London. Wood will be heading up a dream team of color, cut, and styling stars at the famed department store’s first hair outpost, bringing editorial-caliber services to the masses, starting at just £30 (about $48). Here, Wood talks to Style.com about simulating the proper light for viewing a fresh dye job, finding the perfect formula for making “the magic happen,” and why customer service—the kind that calls in fresh-pressed juices while you wait for a double process color to take—is far from dead.



Why Liberty for your second Atelier space?
I love the juxtaposition between the deep history of the building and the contemporary brands within. I feel a real synergy with the way they support up-and-coming talent; it’s vital to keep the creative process and standards at the top of the game.

What was the design concept for the new space?
Working with [architect] Yen Yen was a dream. We both envisioned an interior that is comfortable yet totally groundbreaking, from a salon perspective. We’ve also created a brand-new lighting concept with our Illumina Light Bar: Natural daylight is blended with blue, green, and red hues to create temperature-controlled, white light, for the best possible view of our coloring work. It’ll have all the same special touches as the Notting Hill venue, too—unique artwork; personal iPod playlists; a concierge who knows exactly how you like your soy, decaf, one-shot latte. It’s all part of the experience.

Sounds nice. I know Jivamukti yoga and nutritional eating play a big part in your daily life. Was it important to you to bring that well-being ethos into this new venture?
Everything is centered on well-being, from the services we offer to the food we serve. Beauty needs to look after the inside to give the outside the best possible chance of achieving the style you want, so I’m working with a chef to create a healthy menu that will be available from the Deli Larder—a self-select cooler offering wholesome food and fresh-pressed drinks created with nutritional values in mind.

How will you balance your stable of styling stars in the salon and on shoots—and what compelled you to bring the two worlds together?
Scheduling is the name of the game! I think session and show stylists are challenged every day on delivering a style that is “just right” in the same way salon stylists have to deliver on the promise of amazing hair. It’s working at the cutting edge of hairdressing that influences the way we operate in the salon. Getting the best of both creative disciplines—that’s when the magic happens.

Atelier at Liberty of London, Great Marlborough St., London; appointments available from September, 44-203-393-0977.

Photo: Courtesy of Liberty of London