61 posts tagged "Karl Lagerfeld"
Diane Kruger Shows Off Her French; Gucci Westman’s Beauty Beginnings; What Your Nail Shape Says About You; and More
Diane Kruger, who was recently announced as the new face of Chanel skincare, appears in a short film accompanying the house’s La Commence de Beauté campaign that debuted today. The actress and Karl Lagerfeld muse discusses her views on beauty in fluent French. “I believe that beauty is not skin deep. I believe that beauty is something that you earn,” she said. “It’s a question of curiosity, culture, a certain strength of character.”
New online beauty destination Byrdie is off to a productive start this week. Today, renowned makeup artist (and Revlon’s global artistic color director) Gucci Westman opened up about the first time she wore makeup. “I think I was maybe 15. It would have been a baby blue eye shadow—this is terrible—a sort of cool blue mascara, and blue on the inner waterline with really, really thin plucked eyebrows, pink cheeks, and bronzer—God, don’t ever do that. It’s because I wasn’t allowed to wear makeup, so I brought stuff to school and put it on in the bathroom. I thought I looked major.” We’ve all been there, but it’s reassuring to hear about professionals fumbling early on, too.
Despite years of manicures, we’re still never quite sure what to say when asked “round or square?” To clear up that question, Vogue Australia broke down what your nail shape says about you. According to the article, ladies who opt for round “favor timeless over trend-based pieces…and like nails to take a backseat to sartorial choices,” while square girls don’t mind “trying loud colors or exploring nail art.” Meanwhile, those who keep their claws super short are “low maintenance,” and fans of “stiletto” talons “don’t shy from the spotlight.”
While there were plenty of sleek chignons (Dior) and glossy blow-outs (Giambattista Valli, as well as Naomi Campbell’s Atelier Versace cameo) at the recent Couture shows, rockabilly pompadours made a bigger punch. Backstage before Karl Lagerfeld’s spectacle at the Grand Palais, hairstylist Sam McKnight explained that he used “quite a lot” of hair spray to mold the models’ “Grace Jones flattops,” which were echoed, albeit in a softer way, later that day at Bouchra Jarrar. We noticed similarly teased and slicked-back looks—seen on models Katlin Aas and Anne Verhallen—in the Fall ’13 Miu Miu campaign released earlier this week.
Photos: Getty Images / GoRunway.com / Courtesy of Miu Miu
Few fashion-show teams work the way Karl Lagerfeld, Sam McKnight, and Peter Philips do; like the designs in Lagerfeld’s Chanel Couture collections, the accompanying hair and makeup looks also come directly from his sketches. “Literally he [draws] with makeup,” Philips said of Lagerfeld’s proclivity to pick up lip pencils and powders instead of pens and crayons, which is where the precise idea for the beautifully faded Chanel Joues Contraste Blush in Plum Attraction that Philips applied along the temples, and on the very tops of models’ cheekbones, came from. “[Karl] also made a really strong eyebrow,” according to Philips, so the makeup artist followed suit crafting a “smoky brow,” rather than a smoky eye, diffusing the darker brown shades from Chanel’s forthcoming Les 4 Ombres eye shadow quad in Mystere through arches to keep them thick and sculpted. “It looks a bit futuristic with the set and the theme of the show,” Philips continued, describing the impressive build-out inside the Grand Palais as a “destroyed movie theater with elements of sci-fi.” A thin stroke of Chanel’s Le Crayon Khol in Noir along the outer corner of the upper lash line and a light dusting of the pale gold shade from the same eye palette across lids ensured that even guests in the makeshift auditorium’s cheap seats could catch a glimpse of Philips’ handiwork.
What may have been less obvious from the old-timey wooden chairs that were carefully assembled in the show space was the lack of a noticeable nail color on models’ fingertips, a detail that has become something of a Philips signature over the years. In its place was a newfangled approach to nail art in the form of rings that clipped around the actual nail bed and along each knuckle on models’ fingers.
Sam McKnight was working with his own bit of bling—or “back bands” as he referred to the crystal-encrusted demi-lunes that sat above long ponytails treated with Oribe’s Dry Texturizing Hairspray for a hint of definition after all the kinks had been worked out with ghd’s Eclipse straightener. “It’s a Grace Jones flat-top,” McKnight said of the front half of the dual-sectioned updo, which in some cases was accessorized with a square silhouetted hat, and boasted hints of 1950s rockabilly and eighteenth-century masculine quiffs, “with a huge element of Karl in there as well,” McKnight insisted. Using just models’ natural hair—no extensions—and “quite a lot” of Pantene Touchable Hairspray, the coiffeur admitted that he had chosen the labor-intensive path. ”Wigs are easy; this is very difficult.”
The fragrance flacon as minaudière is not a new idea. For the eighty-fifth anniversary of its iconic Arpège perfume, Lanvin debuted a handbag version of the classic orb-shaped bottle at its boutiques in February, and Viktor & Rolf followed suit a month later, showing black and white clutches shaped like its faceted Flowerbomb on its Fall runway in Paris. But as famous flacons go, there is perhaps none more celebrated than Chanel’s No. 5, which is currently enjoying a full-fledged museum exhibition in its honor at the Palais de Tokyo—and, as of yesterday, its own minaudière. “That’s fun, no? Why not? It’s a beautiful shape [that] the world knows. It’s considered the most famous perfume bottle in the world,” Karl Lagerfeld told our man on the ground in Singapore when asked about the haute accessory that debuted on the Chanel Cruise runway and could see a Fall release date. “After all, it’s a square—you can make a handbag out of it.” So true.
Peter Philips has said it before, and he all but screamed it on Chanel’s Cruise runway in Singapore yesterday: Karl Lagerfeld loves an eye. In fact, backstage-beauty watchers will have to look all the way back to the house’s Fall 2010 Couture show to find evidence of the last time Lagerfeld ordered up a statement lip—which might be why Philips is in his comfort zone when it comes to lids; no matter how many times he reimagines them, they never fail to impress.
For Resort, the makeup artist’s handiwork was even more noteworthy than usual, considering the hot and humid conditions of the Southeast Asian summer—and because rather than expand the definition of the word makeup with pieces of tulle, lace, jumbo glitter, and rhinestones, as has become his signature, Philips used plain old pens and pencils, to no less impactful an effect. “We combined an exaggerated graphic black eyeliner on the eyelid, with an electric-blue kohl underliner,” he explained drawing a thick black flick through the crease of the eye with Chanel’s Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner in Noir Intense before using the same crayon in True Blue to create an equally elongated stroke beneath the lower lash line. “I also used lots of black mascara on the top lashes and applied a gently enhanced eyebrow,” the face painter continued, swiping on multiple coats of its Inimitable Waterproof Mascara in Noir. Skin was kept luminous with a touch of Chanel Joues Contraste Blush in Frivole, a warm peach, its Éclat Lumière Highlighter Face Pen, and some expert contouring courtesy of Chanel Les Beiges, an inventive array of sculpting powders that debuts next month. To not distract the attention from the eyes, which were dusted by Sam McKnight’s side-swept faux fringes—the ends of precisely pinned French twists that had been carefully arranged over the forehead—mouths were kept bare, albeit moisturized. “We kept the lips natural, only using [Rouge Coco Baume] lip balm,” Philips elaborated. He did allow for a little distraction on the nails, though, which peeked out of a series of fingerless gloves to reveal two glimmering coats of the cult-favorite Le Vernis de Chanel in Black Satin.