5 posts tagged "Kasia Struss"
As the dust settles over the first weekend of Coachella, it appears as if 2012 will go down as the most model-friendly year in the annual event’s history. Spotted: Karlie Kloss, Chanel Iman, Raquel Zimmermann, and Ruby Aldridge taking in the vocal stylings of the Black Keys, Radiohead, and a little Dr. Dre for good measure. Also there: Kasia Struss, Hanne Gaby Odile, and Jacquelyn Jablonski, all of whom who partook in the nouveau-hippie extravaganza’s two Fs: fringe and face paint. The three girls seemed to have dipped their manicured fingertips into the same pot of fluorescent yellow pigment, swiping thumbprints of the neon color across their cheekbones. What would Pat McGrath say?! Thoughts on the off-duty catwalkers’ music festival moment?
As the Fall shows got under way last month, one thing became abundantly clear to us fairly early on: Casting agents are feeling a little dark this season. The brunette brigade of Kati Nescher, Marie Piovesan, and Nadja Bender showed up big in New York, where it seemed as though even girls who already had brown hair were going even richer with the help of a few talented colorists—call it the Girl With the Dragon Tattoo effect, which has recently manifested itself in the collections as well as in their corresponding beauty looks.
First, Eugene Souleiman and The Whittemore House’s Victoria Hunter transformed Patricia Van der Vliet’s long, flaxen locks into a deep espresso just days before the shows started; then Redken creative consultant Guido Palau promptly took things to the next level backstage at Calvin Klein, razor-cutting Van der Vliet’s hair into a bob—with micro bang—and dyeing it almost black (several other models, like natural blonde Dempsey Stewart, were also given the raven-haired treatment). Somewhere in between, Paul Hanlon took girls-of-the-moment Melissa Stasiuk and Kel Markey “slightly darker and more matte” at Proenza Schouler for a look that he described as “quite cool.”
Brunette dye jobs are thriving across the pond, too. Right before Milan, Karl Lagerfeld favorite Heidi Mount paid a visit to Gina Gilbert at Serge Normant, and cashed in her ashy blonde tresses for an impactful chestnut. Mount debuted her new shade at the Fendi show and has gone on to rack up Paris bookings including Dior and Guy Laroche (her Chanel cameo later this week is a given). Shades of deep chestnut haven’t worked wonders for every catwalker, of course; Arizona Muse has debatably lost some of her spark since ION Studio’s Kimberley Pierce turned her ebony before Derek Lam, although it clearly hasn’t hindered her tally of runway appearances.
While this is probably just the latest saga of “as the hair color pendulum swings” (need we remind you that it was just three seasons ago that Kasia Struss, Britt Maren, and Abbey Lee Kershaw were reaping the benefits of Spring 2010′s Balenciaga blonde?), all signs seem to point to the longevity of the current brunette-is-better movement, not least because platinum can be so detrimental to hair quality. “I needed makeup to feel pretty with [white blond] hair. But with this, it’s always good,” says Struss, who went brunette for Balenciaga last Spring and has stayed the same dark auburn shade through the Fall shows with tremendous results. “When I’m dark, I’m more mysterious,” Querelle Jansen, another blonde-turned-brunette success story, told us last night at Lanvin. If the “dark glamour” that has ruled backstage in Europe this last week has taught us anything, that’s a very good quality to have.
If you ever managed to get your mind off the exceptional outerwear at Altuzarra (the coat in look 23 is the first thing we’re truly coveting this season), you may have noticed that Kasia Struss closed the show—and that she’s still a brunette. As a card-carrying member of the “Balenciaga blondes,” the group of girls that Guido Palau dyed platinum three seasons ago for Nicolas Ghesquière’s Spring 2010 show, Palau took Struss dark in Paris last March, and she’s been dark ever since. “I’m keeping it. I’m loving it,” she told us backstage last night. “It’s more me. I feel more comfortable and more like myself in this color.” While Struss admits that her formerly signature cornsilk, white-flaxen strands were great for editorials, the color was less conducive to “normal life.” “It made me look washed out. I needed makeup to feel pretty with that hair. But with this, it’s always good.” Her current shade of brown is more auburn than the deep chestnut-y hue Palau gave her for Spring, which is thanks to her New York-based colorists Lena Ott from Ion Studio. “It’s a little more red, a little closer to my natural color,” the Polish stunner told us, breaking down her maintenance mantra, which includes color-safe shampoo and conditioner from Kerastase and her secret weapon: Moroccanoil. “I put it in the ends. I really recommend it!”
For the past few seasons, coiffing star Guido Palau has opted for icy flaxen strands at Nicolas Ghesquière’s presentations, prompting us to coin the specific shade of cornsilk colorist Christophe Robin frequently facilitates for him “Balenciaga blonde.” Last Spring, Milou van Groesen, Britt Maren, and Kasia Struss got the lightening treatment, and Palau opted to transform Aline Weber, Kori Richardson, and Lisanne De Jong for Fall. But at Ghesquière’s Spring show yesterday, the hair color palette seemed to have gotten darker—a point that was hammered home when a previously white-blonde Struss took the runway as a brunette. “Kasia just looks tougher with the brown hair,” Palau said, confirming Struss’ spur-of-the-moment dye job. “It’s a little more boyish.” To balance out Ghesquière’s “highly designed, very modern” clothes, Palau wanted to keep strands simple, so in addition to taking Struss a few shades darker, he prepped every model with Redken Guts 10 Root Targeted Volume Spray Foam to create a textured, worn-in look before breaking out his shears and giving seven girls long, layered bangs on site to bring a “super-cool” element to the style. So, have we seen the last of Balenicaga blonde? “It never goes out of style,” Palau assured us of the color’s inevitable return. “It can be romantic and iconic…it’s the upkeep that’s the problem,” he joked, which Struss can certainly attest to. The Polish beauty is no doubt thrilled to be off the bleach bandwagon—for the time being, at least.
Carmen Kass’ new crop at Balmain is only part of the big hair story developing in Paris this week. A hue we’re calling “Balenciaga Blond” is the other. The night before Nicholas Ghesquière sent his houndstooth coats and runway-ready brothel creepers down the catwalk, Redken’s Guido Palau was busy at work bleaching more than one head of hair. Dutch model Milou van Groesen (who was apparently “street cast” by Ghesquière but already has a huge following in the Netherlands) had her blond locks chopped, spiked, and turned platinum, as did Alexander Wang’s opener for Spring, Britt Maren, and Czech stunner Jana Knauerova, who went blond this May and platinum for Balenciaga. Our most favorite Palau transformation was Kasia Struss, who killed it at Balmain later in the day with her new, cornsilk-white hair.
The icy color is becoming something of a trend at the Spring shows. Iris Strubegger got in on the action at Hakaan, letting Christophe Robin lighten her locks for the show. And who can forget coif master Orlando Pita’s blond ambition for Abbey Lee Kershaw, who wowed at the New York shows with platinum strands, which she debuted at the Chanel Soho store opening? According to sources, Lee’s hair hasn’t been taking too well to all the lightening—presumably because to keep the color that saturated, it needs to be re-dyed every three weeks, according to celebrity stylist Marie Robinson. “You shouldn’t wash it more than a few times a week, and it also needs protein,” Robinson—a platinum blonde herself—added, mentioning that Joico’s K Pak line is a good option for at-home treatment. As to why the color is having a moment for Spring, Robinson’s bet is that it has something to do with Hollywood. “There are all those Marilyn Monroe movies coming out,” she said. “And Michelle Williams did it [at Cannes]. Unless you’re super naturally blonde, though, it’s not a good idea to do it yourself,” the colorist advises for those of you hoping to get the look. “You’re asking for trouble.” Brunettes, consider yourselves warned.