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April 20 2014

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29 posts tagged "Kérastase"

Golden Girls Go Boho, Backstage at Emilio Pucci

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pucci

“Peter doesn’t like makeup.” It’s a tale we’ve heard before of the artistic director. This season, however, he wanted to “do something fun,” noted makeup artist Yadim. Pulling inspiration from the brocade (Look 43) and beaded pieces in the collection, he crafted a “modern-day Veruschka,” using a gold powder that he wet before gilding the forehead of ten select girls. “That’s where that desert warrior woman comes in,” he said of the metallic treatment. The majority of models were kept rather natural in comparison: MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl was tapped onto the high planes of the face, a taupe shade was used to gently contour, and a beige shadow was washed across the lids and blended up into the brows before a shimmery brown lipstick was layered on top for shine. To provide definition, a black pencil was drawn along the water line, but not smudged. “This is very precise and strict,” the pro emphasized. Lashes were left bare and cheeks were flushed with Ladyblush, a cream formula, to help the girls “look alive.”

Dundas may have proposed a pony, but for mane master Luigi Murenu your standard tail simply wouldn’t do. To lend a “rock ‘n’ roll” vibe that still felt romantic, he worked Kérastase Mousse Bouffante through strands before blow-drying, then wrapped hair loosely around a one-inch curling iron, leaving the ends out. After the texture was in place, he divided the length into three sections and made a short, low plait. “One, two, and done,” he said, crossing the pieces over one another before tying it off with a band. “There are a lot of collars [in the collection], and this can be tucked inside,” he explained, pointing to the barely-there braid. With Eva Herzigova waiting for him at his station, he succinctly summed up the “strong identity” of the Emilio Pucci woman for Fall 2014: “She’s got a chic bohemian feeling, but she’s no hippie.” That much we know for sure.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com

Seattle Sportif, Backstage at Thakoon

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thakoon-crop“His inspiration this season was a girl from northwest America who loves Patagonia and comes to New York to shop,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal of the designer’s muse. To reflect that same “spontaneous” spirit on the face, Kendal created a reverse cat-eye using NARS Eyeliner Pencil in Mambo—starting from the middle of the lower lash line and kicking it out past the outer corners. She topped it with reddish-brown shadow from the forthcoming Dolomites Duo. “Black is typical,” Kendal said of her shade choice. “This represents that she does what she likes to do.” The rest of the complexion was just as unfussy and fresh—using highlighter on top of cheekbones and across the lids for a subtle sheen.

The hair was less about a Seattle native armed with an American Express card, and more about a girl who hits the gym. “She has beautiful hair, but she’s been sweating,” said Odile Gilbert, who prepped strands with Kérastase Spray à Porter (a volumizing spritz) to lift the roots and blasted the back with dry shampoo for a fluffy, matte texture. After making a deep side part, Lift Vertige gel was generously applied to the front sections for a “wet” effect before they were tucked behind the ears. A few pieces of length were given a similar treatment with Touche Perfection cream. “There are some elements [in the collection] that are part of the sports world,” Gilbert explained of where she found her athletic inspiration. Appropriate, seeing as the Sochi Olympics are in full swing.

Photo: Courtesy of NARS Cosmetics

Alluring Androgyny, Backstage at Jason Wu

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jason-wuThe look at Jason Wu is always glamorous, but the gold glitter sprinkled across lids last season gave way to a more subdued—but strong—brow and a flat “boyish” bun for Fall 2014. “It’s a feminine/masculine look,” said mane master Odile Gilbert.

“This is something new for him—we’ve never done messed-up [hair] before,” explained Gilbert. The sides were kept “tight” (slicked back with Kérastase Touche Perfection), but she allowed for “movement” on top. In back, she pulled the length up into a chignon, but not in the traditional sense—sections were wound and secured to form a tight mass of hair. “There are about fifty hairpins in there,” she added. “The idea is to make it as small as possible…you don’t know where it starts and finishes.”

Makeup artist Diane Kendal “enhanced all the girls’ natural features” with a light coverage foundation, and contoured their faces with the bronze shade in Lancôme’s Blush Subtil Palette in Rose Flush—dusting it underneath the cheekbones and in the banana of the eyes. The pink hue was placed on the apples of the cheeks, while a pearly highlighter was applied to the tops of cheekbones and lightly across the lids. Black liner was worked into the roots of lashes for definition before fringe was subsequently curled. Kendal’s focus remained on the arches, which were filled in with a powder in the same tone as each model’s hair so that they “didn’t overtake the face.” She also slightly elongated the brows to create the “illusion of them being straighter,” she said. A combo of balm and foundation on lips rounded out the boy-meets-girl maquillage.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde, Indigitalimages.com

A Blue Streak and Braids, Backstage at Creatures of the Wind

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creatures-of-the-windAs The Space Lady (aka Susan Dietrich, a former eighties street performer in San Francisco) blasted through the air, makeup artist James Boehmer talked about transcendence—the inspiration for the designers’ Fall collection, which faded from dark, heavy fabrics to white, airy materials. The color that began to appear by look seven was reflected in the makeup via NARS Larger Than Life Eyeliner in Khao San Road, an electric blue shade that was applied to the lower, inner rim. “It’s more of an effect than a color,” he explained, “It makes the eyes look big, bright, dreamy, and ethereal.” Sharon Tate served as the muse for the long, fluttery lashes on both top and bottom, along with the brows that were gelled-up just in the inner corners. The dewy skin and ultra-shiny lips, however, were taken directly from a seventies Princess Leia. “She always had perfect lip gloss no matter what happened,” said Boehmer. Complexions were hydrated with NARSskin Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer and cheekbones highlighted with Rosebud Salve for extra “gleam.” A blend of the forthcoming Matte Multiple in Mauritanie and Triple X Lip Gloss were “thumbed” onto models’ mouths. “It’s meant to look as if she’s just [ate] honey,” he said of the glassy finish.

Thankfully, Star Wars didn’t inspire the braid crafted by Odile Gilbert. Instead, the designers wanted something “cool,” she said. This resulted in a continuous plait that started at the crown of the head, wrapped around the front “like a bang,” and finished down the back. To prep strands, Gilbert used Kérastase Mousse Bouffante and Lift Vertige on damp hair for texture before blowing it dry, then added extensions a shade lighter than each girl’s natural color where needed. After making a side part with the pointed end of a tail comb and braiding, she roughed it up with her fingers to create “whisps” before finishing with Laque Dentelle hairspray and Touche Perfection cream for shine. “Don’t be afraid to destroy,” she told a stylist on her team as he watched in horror as she roughed up his perfect plait. The finished look took all of five minutes. “It’s like a little hat,” Gilbert quipped.

The “water-marbled” nails by manicurist Katie Jane Hughes also had an outer space reference (although there was no mention of Jedi Knights). After applying a base coat of Butter London Nail Lacquer in Trallop or Teddy Girl, Hughes applied a drop of Diamond Geezer, Billy No Mates, Yummy Mummy, Pearly Queen, and Posh Bird into a bowl of water. After swirling the shades with a stick, she gently dipped the nude or pink tip into the floating pattern. The result was reminiscent of “agate” or “cosmic environments,” she said. Hughes made the technique look relatively easy, but if you try this one at home, may the force be with you.

Photo: Getty

Beauty 411: Rheanne White

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RheanneWhite-cropSince the premiere of HBO’s Girls, a great many people have, understandably so, come to care deeply about Lena Dunham—what she says, what she wears, what she posts on Instagram, and, naturally, what she does to her hair. And though the pixie has experienced a major celebrity surge this year (see: Jennifer Lawrence, Pamela Anderson and, briefly, Beyoncé), Dunham’s crop was among the first and, in our opinion, the best. The stylist responsible for the wispy pixie perfection? Rheanne White. And as of this month the longtime freelance stylist, whose handiwork has graced the pages of such magazines as GQ, Vanity Fair, and Marie Claire, is sharing her talent with the masses thanks to the opening of her first eponymous salon (Rheanne White Salon, 14 Jay St., 212-966-2928; rheannewhite.com). Here, White shares some of her own go-to products and places, many of which, it should be pointed out, are a mere stone’s throw from her new Tribeca digs.

THE HAIR STYLING TOOLS: Shu Uemura and Layrite
“I love Shu Uemura’s Essence Absolue Nourishing Oil-in-Cream because it’s so user friendly. It’s great on fine to thick hair with curls and waves, and a quarter-size amount is all you need for shine and control. And Layrite makes the best pomades—they’re all water-soluble. I use the Men’s Layrite Super Hold not just on my male clients, but also on women’s short hair any time I want to give a style that piece-y look.”

See shuuemuraartofhair-usa.com and layrite.com

THE SHAMPOO DUO: Kérastase and Shu Uemura
“Kérastase K Powder Bluff Dry Shampoo is great for making a good hair day last a little longer. Just spray at the roots to soak up an oily scalp and get that bounce and texture back. And Shu Uemura Ultimate Remedy Shampoo is a cure-all for winter hair.”

See kerastase-usa.com and shuuemuraartofhair-usa.com

THE SKINCARE ESSENTIAL: Mun Skin
“Makeup artist Munemi Imai makes the best face oil. I use the No. 1 Aknari Nighttime Dream Youth Serum every day and put any remaining product on my hair.”

See munskin.com

THE HOME SCENT: Le Feu De L’Eau
“Le Feu De L’Eau make the most divine candles. I can’t pick a favorite—I burn them all on different days at my salon.”

See lefeudeleau.com

THE ACCESSORY GURU: Pamela Love
“I love everything she does. I want it all. So badass!”

See pamelalovenyc.com

THE SKIN APPOINTMENT: Diamond Facial at Shibui Spa
“My facialist, Kate Walsh, uses Natura Bissé, an amazing, family-owned skincare line from Barcelona that focuses on gentle-but-effective exfoliation. She also uses muscle manipulation massages to leave the skin plumped, hydrated, and glowing.”

377 Greenwich St., New York, NY, (646) 203-0045; thegreenwichhotel.com/shibui-spa

THE MASSAGE: Euphoria Spa
“They have too many amazing massages to pick just one. It really depends on what you need that day. I’ve had the Myofascial Release and Craniosacral Therapy—a hands-on massage technique that involves applying gentle, sustained pressure into connective tissue restrictions in order to alleviate pain, improve flexibility, restore motion, and create fluidity. Deep-tissue massage is also applied when needed.”

18 Harrison St., New York, NY, (212) 925-5925; euphoriaspanyc.com

THE ONE-STOP-BEAUTY-SHOP: Space.NK Apothecary
“This is my go-to when I’m in need of a new face cream. I love RéVive—worth every penny!”

90 Greene St., New York, NY, (212) 941-4200; us.spacenk.com

THE WORKOUT: Aqua Cycling
“Give this in-water spinning class a try. Trust me—it’s so much fun and gives great results without the post-workout soreness.”

78 Franklin St., New York, NY, (212) 966-6784; aquastudiony.com

THE CAFFEINE SPOT: Laughing Man
“This little gem has some of the best coffee and teas in the ‘hood. We only serve their goods at the salon.”

184 Duane St., New York, NY; livelaughingman.com

Photo: Taea Thale