25 posts tagged "Kérastase"
The look created for the half-French, half-American designer by makeup artist Tom Pecheux and hairstylist Odile Gilbert was based around one word: purity.
Pecheux kept the focus on the classic matte red lip—a combo of MAC Red Lipmix topped with Pigment in Basic Red. The lids were kept simple, applying a Pure White Paint Stick with his fingertips from the lash line to brow bone, and on the outer corners of the eye as a highlight. He set this with powder shadow in Gesso to eliminate shine, using a large, soft brush. “If you use something very hard, [the color] is going to be very opaque and you will look like a panda,” Pecheux said, which is definitely not on trend this season (or ever).
The hair was equally as easy, with Gilbert making an imperfect middle part, blow-drying strands with Kérastase Mousse Bouffante, and sealing split ends with Fibre Architecte. Hair was then scraped back into a low ponytail and secured with a white elastic. She used a curling iron to add “movement” to the tail and polished everything off with Laque Dentelle hair spray.
An updated and forgiving French manicure—painted with Essie Vanity Fairest and Allure—was the finishing touch. “When you use sheer colors, you don’t have to worry about the line being perfect,” said manicurist Michelle Saunders. And good thing, because who really has the time (or skills) for that?
Last time I spoke with Wu, the designer told me to expect a look—and true to his word, he delivered. Seeing as the collection was a bit of a departure from his more structured silhouettes (boasting more fluid, feminine shapes with corset detailing to provide an element of control), the makeup also took a slightly different turn. Instead of the vampy shadow seen at past seasons, face painter Diane Kendal, who helped create Wu’s namesake line for Lancôme, opted for a softer, half-moon-shaped cat eye, accented with warm rose gold glitter. “It [looks] like glamorous sand,” Wu explained at the hair and makeup test. And while Kendal tried a version with black and silver hues during the fitting, the of-the-moment metallic was ultimately decided upon because it felt more like summer and provided that feeling of “sunshine,” she says.
Kendal based the skin and eyelids (giving the glitter something to grip onto) with Lancôme Teint Visionnaire Skin Correcting Duo, then warmed up the cheeks with a light dusting of Blush Subtil in Cedar Rose. To create the spotlight-stealing eyes, the makeup artist sketched Le Crayon Kôhl in Black Coffee along the “banana” and slightly down toward the outer corner before diffusing the line with a fluffy brush. Over top, Kendal added a shimmery camel shadow from the Color Design Eye Brightening All-in-One 5 Pan Shadow & Liner Palette in Bronze Amour—leaving the middle of the lid bare. Jason Wu for Lancôme Artliner in Noir was applied thinly along the upper lash line for definition, and Hypnôse Star Mascara was added for extra drama. Using a damp brush, fine glitter was applied to the center and up to the crease as the finishing touch.
The long and lush tails were no surprise, as the designer was not shy about his affinity for the utilitarian classic. “There are many iterations of T-shirt, tank, and slipdresses within the collection that feel like normal things that you glamourize through lace or beading,” Wu said. “The ponytail is the hair [equivalent] of that.” After working Kérastase Fibre Architect (a reconstructing serum that helps soften split ends) and a liberal misting of Gloss Appeal (a shine spray launching in October) through strands, hairstylist Odile Gilbert flat-ironed sections for a sleek finish before using the end of a rattail comb to create a crisp center part. The length was pulled into a low pony, which was then wrapped with blunt-cut extensions that hit just above the bra line, framing the lace-up detailing on the backs of multiple pieces. Any flyaways were smoothed back from the forehead with Short Mania (a pomade also out in October) and shellacked with La Laque Couture hair spray. To carry through the metal theme and cap off the look, Gilbert snapped in a gold or rose gold clip from Colette, an accessory stylist Kate Young discovered while in Paris. Models with cropped cuts, like Karen Elson—who last sported this length in the Chanel campaigns of the nineties—and Karlie Kloss, were given slick, pushed-behind-the-ears styles. “Everyone feels a little bit more secure with their hair down,” Gilbert said. “But when you make your hair look like this, you have nothing to hide—you feel very strong about yourself.”
Although I can’t reveal much from the designer’s hair-and-makeup test (let’s just say, if I disclosed all the beauty deets before showtime, Wu might send his posse of cats with sharpened claws—he’s a self-proclaimed “cat lady”—my way), I will tell you that some of my initial predictions after my last chat with him are right on point. (He also does a killer impression of stylist Kate Young and the face she makes when she likes and dislikes something, or when she feels backed into a corner regarding a decision.) There will be long and luxe tails—though not of the feline variety. And the metallic of the moment, rose gold, is sprinkled in multiple places throughout the look. Expect the most sparkly and sophisticated interpretation of sand you’ve ever seen, as well as lots of masking tape backstage to catch the “fallout.” I’m missing the beach already.
As for next season, there might be a ZannClip involved (shown above). Wu spotted it on the back of a model’s dress at the test, thinking it was an added design element, though it was simply a convenient place to stash her hair accessory. Wu asked his team, “How fast can Amazon deliver those?” I think it’s safe to say they’ll arrive in time for Fall 2014.
Expect the full report tomorrow, after the models hit the runway.
Dermalogica products have always been the equivalent of a skincare safety net for me—I know that even when I have driven my complexion to the point of no return by test-driving a plethora of new lotions and potions, I can always count on them to restore order and balance. And Dermalogica’s best endorsement may just come from Annet King, the brand’s director of global education. The British-born California resident is, as anyone who has had the distinct pleasure of meeting her can attest, a virtual wellspring of skincare information. She has always had a snappy response for any and all of my complexion queries, of which there have been many over the years. Here, Dermalogica’s in-house guru dishes about her favorite beautifying people and places (most are close to her Culver City home—”I am a total locavore and believe in minimizing travel time on the L.A. freeways, biking if possible, especially on the weekends, and, of course, supporting local businesses,” she says), and shares the details of her own daily routine…did I mention she has ridiculously amazing skin?
THE REGULAR TREATMENT: Dermalogica on Montana
“I believe in healthy, super-clean, hydrated skin. I can’t live without Dermalogica on Montana, and a few times a year I’ll get the full skin treatment with foot reflex touch therapy, but when time is short, the twenty-minute MicroZone Treatments are my savior. All the staff is superb—they are the most well-trained, educated skin therapists on the planet!”
See dermalogica.com for information.
THE GO-TO DERM: Dr. Joshua Wieder
“For medical skin issues, I rely on Dr. Joshua Wieder. He’s so patient and professional, and one of the most respected dermatologists around. He also appreciates the role and work of a skin therapist, and refers many of his patients to our spaces.”
See wiederderm.com for information.
THE RE-ALIGNER: Dr. Robert Pomahac
“With the amount of travel I do and flights I take (not to mention my passion for high heels), I could not live without a regular adjustment from my friend and chiropractor Dr. Robert Pomahac. He views the body very differently and does not just crack your back! He incorporates physiotherapy, provides strengthening exercises to do at your desk, and gives you tips on how you should sit while you’re driving, etc. He has the best advice to suit your busy lifestyle.”
See maxhealthla.com for information.
It was 100-plus degrees in New York yesterday afternoon. That’s hot. Your hair and scalp often bear the brunt of summer’s intense conditions, when the sun’s burning rays are beating down on you. Just in time to heal a scorched scalp comes Kérastase’s Bain Vital, the Paris haircare brand’s first hypoallergenic shampoo that’s formulated with anti-inflammatory peppermint, a soothing ingredient from willow extract, and nongreasy glycerin to hydrate and protect your scalp from redness and irritation. Part of the Dermo-Calm collection previously only available in Europe, the shampoo can be used daily and is especially handy as a post-swim tonic to remove drying chlorine or dulling saltwater residue. We plan to rinse, lather, and repeat until the mercury is on our side again.