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2 posts tagged "Lactic Acid"

Dr. Lisa Airan On Scratching The Surface

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This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. The following query was culled from a private stock, but we’ll be accepting readers’ questions soon.

Is it true that exfoliants with granules are too harsh for the face and that the best exfoliants are chemical or enzyme-based?

Granules like crushed nuts and seeds can be uneven and traumatic for use on the face. Chemical and enzymatic exfoliants like glycolic cleansers and prescription-only 2 percent salicylic acid solutions can achieve the same results with less skin damage, e.g., broken blood vessels, etc. I am a fan of Kanebo’s Silk Peeling Powder, which starts as a granule but has a measured dose of active ingredients that dissolve in water so there are no sharp edges. Deeper chemical peels offered at doctors’ offices are really the best way to go, however. I recommend going to your doctor for a lactic acid peel, even just twice a year. It will make a real difference.

A certified member of the American Board of Dermatology and the National Board of Medical Examiners, Dr. Lisa Airan takes a holistic approach to aging and beauty, specializing in cosmetic dermatology combined with counseling in the areas of stress, exercise, diet, and spirituality.

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P50 Lotion: Life-Changing? Yes, Pretty Much

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It’s unclear when the cult of P50 started, although we’d have to assume it was around the time that Biologique Recherche first released the wonder product, which has become the cornerstone of its 40-year-old line. With active ingredients including usnic acid, lactic acid, witch hazel, onion extract, myrrh extract, and sage extract, the toner-cum-astringent -cum-”balancing lotion” occupies a coveted space among beauty urban legends. Many have heard of its transformative powers, although why it actually works remains elusive. “It just balances your skin,” says Shyou Hung, famed New York facialist and the owner of Salon de Shyou in Soho. As one of the first aestheticians to start offering P50, Hung prescribes the tonic to all of her clients, which include a gaggle of models and please-don’t-print-their-names-in-your-article celebrities who can often be seen leaving her Prince Street digs. “It’s really unique,” she says. “It actually makes pores smaller!”—among other things. Essentially a daily exfoliant that effectively removes dead skin cells to allow for cell regeneration, P50 gently purifies, hydrates, and tones while controlling sebum and reducing any proclivity you might have toward breakouts and rosacea (editor’s note: it’s also excellent for pre- and post-shaving care). While it can take about a week to start working and the smell is not for the faint of heart (that combination of lactic acid and onion extract is pungent at best), it can be quite habit-forming. Once your skin has experienced P50, the visible difference makes it hard to go back.

Photo: Courtesy of Biologique Recherche