4 posts tagged "L’Artisan Parfumeur"
The roots of perfumery run deep. Back in the seventeenth century, fragrant oils were used to mask the not-so-pleasant aroma of body odors and raw hides, leading to the creation of all manner of scented leather goods worn by the ladies (and men) of the day. This old-world tradition is having a recent resurgence—Byredo’s Ben Gorham has hinted at a forthcoming leather goods collection—and now L’Artisan Parfumeur has teamed up with French glovemaker Causse to release a limited-edition pair of richly scented kid leather gloves for the holidays.
In creating this olfactory objet, L’Artisan stayed true to the centuries-old techniques. Their perfumers first dipped into the archives to select a scent that would marry well with leather, ultimately deciding to update a deep, musky blend from the seventies with a modern blackcurrant note. The result was christened Mûre et Musc Extrême, and it was used, along with nourishing oils, to soak and soften the raw skins. After four hours of steeping, the leather was then removed from the mixture and placed in a special drying room overnight. It was then cut and stitched into silk-lined gloves by the masters at Causse, the famed eighteenth-century leather workshop based in Millau, in the south of France, and recently acquired by Chanel. (Glove fanatic Karl Lagerfeld is a client.)
The finished pairs—of which only 100 were made, at $480 each—come in four sizes and leave a delicate scent on your hands when removed. The aroma itself will remain on the gloves for three years; thereafter, you can revive it with a mist of Eau de Parfum Mûre et Musc Extrême, which by the way, makes for a fitting companion gift.
With the onset of fall comes an influx of fragrances designed to woo you into sweater-wearing with a wealth of warm and cozy aromas (think: vanilla, musk, leather, woods, cinnamon, et al.). But the latest crop of scents from some of the perfumery industry’s niche stars might surprise you in their compositions. Predictably spring florals are given heady updates with new technologies and forward-thinking scent structures, while olfactory inspirations range from literature to the Ballets Russes; you gotta love the independent spirit. Here, we’ve picked our five favorites to get you through the season.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l’Aube
While the French brand’s eaux are frequently inspired by travel, L’Artisan’s master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour was taken with the book The Perfume Lover, a tale of romance and fragrance by Denyse Beaulieu, this time around. Set during holy week in Seville, Andalusia, it depicts incense burners imbuing the southern Spanish city with a spicy aroma that mingles with the sweetness of orange flower tree-lined streets. Duchaufour’s spritzable version, which includes top notes of tangy green sap and rare infusions of Luiseiri lavender that are reminiscent of more classic eau de cologne, is mixed with an intoxicating jasmine accord and beeswax for an incredibly rich, fresh-tinged finish.
Ineke Ruhland Hothouse Flower: Gardenia
After training at Quest International, a fragrance house that was ultimately acquired by Givaudan, the Canadian Dutch-born Ruhland set up her own perfume studio in San Francisco in 2006, where she launched an alphabetical-themed lineup of botanical-based scents. She’s now up to H, for which she has released Hothouse Flower: Gardenia. “It’s really hard to get a good gardenia,” says Ruhland, pointing out that absolutes of the white flower are often blends of tuberose with green notes, which she’s done here to perfection. “Mine is super green,” she professes of the galbanum, cypress, fig, and frankincense-spiked scent.
To a true fragrance buff, spritzing one’s wrist with eau de cologne and lighting a few scented candles doesn’t constitute really knowing a perfume. Instead, the truly olfactorally obsessed go beyond these amateur trivialities to get to the heart of a fragrance, often tracing its ingredients to their sources and always staying on top of trends and breaking industry news. For these fanatics, er, loyalists, Givaudan presents, “Sniffapalooza.” On October 11, APOTHIA at Fred Segal on Melrose Avenue will play host to executives from Givaudan as well as a panel of fragrance designers and representatives from niche brands like L’Artisan Parfumeur, Serge Lutens, Comptoir Sud Pacifique, and Diptyque, for a day filled with presentations, shopping—and deluxe goody bags. With both a morning and full-day session option, attendees can expect informed conversation about emerging trends plus, for each trend discussed (spoiler alert: “Magical World: Rediscovering the truth, the marvel, the beauty and the bizarre of nature” is currently on the syllabus), Givaudan will create an exclusive fragrance with six limited-edition bottles available for purchase. Click here for more information and to purchase tickets.
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