8 posts tagged "Laurent Philippon"
“I remember one of the first times I used a curling iron—it was on my friend and neighbor. The [barrel] got tangled in her hair and I had to unplug it very fast. I [eventually] had to chop a piece off to remove it.”
Lucky for the rest of us, a bump in the road at the tender age of 12 didn’t prevent Philippon from pursuing his passion for the craft. Perfecting his skills on the naive girls in his neighborhood in the small town of Oyonnax, France, would eventually blossom into a successful backstage and editorial career. It would also score him a gig with Bumble and Bumble—helping to develop some of the brand’s best sellers like Sumowax and tinted Hair Powders. When asked how his friend responded post-curling iron snafu, he said, “I think she was 8 or 9, so it was fun for her.” Somehow, I don’t think most models would be as understanding.
Above, a photo of Philippon (far right) from his childhood. To read the rest of his backstory, check out this month’s Beautiful Lives.
“It’s a really cool girl, who’s style conscious but has a rock n’ roll lifestyle,” hairstylist Laurent Philippon said of his seasonal muse backstage at BCBG this morning. Or, in other words, Kate Moss. “[She] was on the mood board,” makeup artist Val Garland confirmed. So, how best to simulate the superest-of-them-all’s laid-back, edgy look? Black eyeliner, for starters.
“I pushed it into the water line and smudged it out,” Garland explained of an ebony gel that she worked into models’ upper and lower lashes so it looked lived-in, “like there was a little left over and it’s been on for six or eight hours.” Garland also channeled “Kate the Great’s” disheveled decadence when crafting perfect, flawless skin, which she achieved using Temptu’s airbrush system—its AIR pod Foundation contoured with its AIR pod Bronzer in Warm Glow and AIR pod Highlighter in Champagne, specifically. Lips were given a slight wine stain, “like you were just-biting your lip,” courtesy of a finger-pressing of its Retouch Blush in Washed Rose while nails were painted a “virginal and demure” neutral with CND’s Pink Lily.
Philippon focused his energy on getting that texture that “everyone wants.” Prepping hair with Bumble and Bumble Bb Thickening Spray, he “deconstructed” sections by raking his Bb Styling Wax-coated hands through lengths to create piecyness. A final “cloud” of its Hair Powder, which grabbed onto the wax, resulted in a mess of thick, sexy bedhead—vintage Kate.
As the build up to Kanye West’s premiere womenswear collection finally came to a head last night in Paris, the question of whether or not the rapper-turned-designer could deliver was answered—as were our burning questions of whether his unquestionable savvy for style would translate in beauty terms. “He knows what he wants,” makeup artist Val Garland said of West’s aptitude for shadows and shading after having a powwow with him to come up with a look for his first show. “He also knows what he doesn’t want—nothing too conceptual,” West told Garland. “He wants a woman to look like a woman”—which is why they decided on “Victoria’s Secret sexy.” This meant a dewy, warm complexion courtesy of MAC Sculpt Foundation that was buffed into heavily hydrated skin before receiving a slight contour by way of MAC Mineralize Skin Finish powder, which was dotted with its Cream Colour Base in Shell along cheekbones for highlight. As has been the preference of many a designer this season—both established and newcomer—West wanted a fifties cat-eye, which Garland obliged using MAC Cream Eyeliner in Black, diffused onto the lid and then reapplied in a thick line with a flick on the end using a small, angled brush. Lashes were given a bombshell-caliber boost with its Pro Lash Mascara and a few individual falsies placed in the outer corners, all while big-name models like Karlie Kloss, Anja Rubik, and Abbey Lee Kershaw enjoyed some radio jams from Beyoncé—the hip-hop world’s other high-profile friend of fashion.
Hairstylist Laurent Philippon was also going for sexy—but a specifically equine form of it. “I don’t know if I can even show you what [Kanye] showed me for inspiration,” Philippon said mischievously, producing a colored photograph of wild horses with texturized manes out to pasture. Coating hair with Bumble and Bumble Does It All Hairspray, which truly “does it all,” Kershaw joked from Philippon’s chair, the coiffing star braided the entire head into one-inch sections, hot-ironing the plaits and teasing the shaft to create additional texture as he went, before undoing each one and brushing through. Carving out deep side parts, Philippon finger-combed front sections forward and over models’ right eyes before they hit the runway.
Even after a month of backstage coverage, it’s often hard to tell which beauty trends will have legs off the runway. Neon pouts à la Fendi and Jil Sander seem poised for a Spring takeover, as do Sophy Robson’s adventures in nail art at shows like Giles, Loewe, and Topshop Unique. Call us unimaginative, but we never would’ve guessed that Guido Palau’s middle-parted “inverted roll,” which he introduced at YSL back in October and revisited in a new, braided incarnation at Valentino Couture last week, would become the frontrunner for hairstyle of the season. The look—which starts with a center part and involves coating strands with a gel, like Redken’s Hardwear 16 Super Strong gel mixed with its Glass 01 serum, before a meticulous rolling and tucking process ensues—has also popped up in the pages of Numéro #120 and the March edition of Vogue Nippon, courtesy of Bumble and Bumble’s Laurent Philippon and hairstylist Franco Gobbi, respectively. The overall goal when attempting what Palau calls an “Edwardian meets seventies” updo is forming a tight ridge close to the head for a minimal silhouette. A slashing of dark lipstick—while optional—also seems to add a certain strength. What do you think? Will you be giving this one a go at the New York shows next week?
Those of you who, like us, fondly remember Tom Pecheux’s gorgeous blackberry lip from Peter Som’s Fall show were likely eager to see how the face painter would follow up the trend-setting performance. This morning, the answer came in the form of yellow eyeliner. “Peter is one of the few designers who loves to play with colors,” Pecheux said, explaining the bright, sunny hue he was drawing onto models’ upper lash lines with a mix of MAC Pro’s Acrylic Paint in Primary Yellow and its Chromaline pigment pot in the same shade. “Black represents the past, the glam, the sophistication,” he said. The more “playful, charming” color he chose injected a bit of youth and modernity into the proceedings. Pecheux kept his line straight, with no winged tips and no mascara. “That would be too classic and too glamorous,” he said of the details he deliberately left out before coating girls’ lips with MAC’s forthcoming Kissable Lipstick in So Vain, a peachy nude gloss. As for those languid tresses, coif master Laurent Philippon had beach hair on the brain. “It looks simple but it’s not that easy to do,” he said of the texturized style, which began with a hefty helping of Bumble and Bumble’s Prep mixed with its Surf Spray. The models’ hair was blown dry with a diffuser and finger-combed to retain definition while adding a light and airy finish.