20 posts tagged "Lipstick"
Images of spring typically conjure up the usual tropes of muted pastels and cashmere-soft bunnies, but not so for edgy makeup brand Illamasqua. For their latest collection, Glamore, they’re going bold with vibrant lipsticks and gritty glitter polishes.
Launching today at Bloomingdales and Sephora, Glamore celebrates the determined instead of the demure. Three new super-saturated lipsticks ($26) in traffic cone orange, candy pink, and daring magenta have been formulated with luxe satiny finishes, while the shattered-like lacquers ($17) in cool champagne, fiery persimmon, and deep rose are chock-full of retina-searing sparkles.
Above, a behind-the-scenes look at the making of the brand’s latest campaign.
Tom Pecheux, backstage fixture and creative makeup director for Estée Lauder, could hardly contain his excitement last season at Anthony Vaccarello when he described the packaging that was in the works for a mysterious new line of lipsticks. He discreetly referred to the more architectural look and magnetic closures, but considering these types of secrets are strictly confidential in the corporate beauty world, that’s all he could share…until now. The cosmetics giant is launching twenty shades of Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick, a formula that boasts time-released hyaluronic acid and multifaceted pigments (available February 24 at esteelauder.com). In this exclusive, the pro reveals all—including the shades he hand-selected to suit the many model faces of the brand.
How would you describe the new Pure Color Envy collection?
When I look at the collection, the first thing I think is the packaging is absolutely divine. Richard Ferretti did an amazing job with the case. For me, twenty colors is the perfect amount. The range captures every woman’s desire. The shades and formula are [traditional] in that they have the high coverage you expect from a lipstick and include a pure red and a perfect nude, but the new technology gives the line a modern twist. It’s like a classic wool dress that is made in cashmere. The new texture and formula make Envy extremely luxurious.
What are your favorite shades in the collection?
As a makeup artist, I cannot limit myself to one favorite shade. It will be the one that fits the person that I am working with on that day.
What do you think a lipstick says about a woman?
Lipstick tells us so many things about a woman. It tells us about her personality. For example, a woman wearing a strong lipstick—bright red—suggests she wants to express a certain power.
What is the best way to apply lip color? Fingertips, brush, or straight from the bullet?
There is no recipe. It depends on the result you want to create. A bullet is the best application because it’s fast, precise, and gives nice coverage. Fingertips create a transparent finish with no precision—more like a stain. A brush is for when you want perfection and a high-quality finish, particularly when you apply a red lipstick.
What are your tricks for making lips appear fuller? Does lip liner help?
Lip liner can help, but for me, a liner only works if it’s a nude or a color that matches the color of the lip. To make them fuller, you can go slightly outside the lip line.
If you have small lips, avoid a dark shade. The darker the shade, the more intense your lips look, but on smaller lips it can give you a mean, severe look. Also avoid very pale lipsticks if you want a fuller-looking mouth.
What is your favorite lip look?
It depends on the woman. But I am totally in love with red as much as I am with nude. I love women who play with makeup to emphasize a quality of their personality or character. That’s why in terms of lipstick, I love colors that have something to say—so either a pale nude, a true red, a dark plum, or a bright color. When it comes to a gentle pink, I understand why women want to wear it, but as a makeup artist, it doesn’t reflect a personality so well.
Which shade in the collection would you choose for each of these Estée Lauder spokesmodels?
Carolyn Murphy: Envious. She loves a red lipstick.
Constance Jablonski: I love it when she focuses on her eyes, so a nude color like Insatiable Ivory works on her lips.
Joan Smalls: I love her in a dark burgundy like Insolent Plum.
Liu Wen: I would go more pink, [one that's] powerful and dynamic. A shade like Dominant would suit.
Arizona Muse: I love her in a red as well, so Vengeful Red.
What do you think makes a woman enviable?
I think Carolyn Murphy pretty much embodies that—gotta love a bad bitch on a bike who knows how to make a serious statement by slicking on some lipstick and revving up her engine.
Moody, bordeaux lips continue to make a statement on the red carpet, the latest example being Jessica Alba (who also debuted a new, shoulder-grazing cut) at last night’s Hollywood Stands Up to Cancer event in Culver City, California. Lipstick queen Lupita Nyong’o sported a similar shade at the recent Producers Guild of America Awards in Beverly Hills. Both actors contrasted the deep shade with light-colored dresses and lots of (considering that it’s still January) glowy skin. Nyong’o’s makeup man Nick Barose said that the key to pulling off the rich hue is to make sure that your formula has a “hint of sheen,” and to add a touch of luminescence to your complexion—like the golden highlights he placed above her Cupid’s bow and on the center of her chin. One of his go-to tubes: Tom Ford Lip Color in Black Orchid.
With the Screen Actors Guild Awards this Saturday, I imagine we’ll see a bold lip or two on the red carpet. Makeup artist Nick Barose—the man behind the ever-changing maquillage of nominee Lupita Nyong’o—says playing up your mouth is a good move, if you know the tricks of the trade. “You’d be surprised how quickly I apply lipstick to my clients…I’m not the kind of guy who layers too many products or takes twenty minutes just to do the lips—three to four minutes max,” he said. Here, Barose offers up his speedy tips:
1. After prepping your mouth with a good balm, apply lipstick directly from tube. “You get more intensity this way and you won’t need to keep layering,” he explained. Always start from the center and draw outward to ensure symmetry. “I think I learned this from watching my mom apply lipstick in the car while my dad was driving—she’s the queen of bright reds, fuchsias, and corals, and she can [put them on] perfectly in no time,” he added. Like mother like son.
2. “I’m not big on matching lip liner—especially when it comes to bright shades,” he said. “The pencil can create such severe lines, which can be aging.” He prefers a lip brush from Chanel. “It cuts in at an angle so you can be precise and build the shape softly,” he said.
3. To make your mouth pop, gently dab a brightening concealer (like Sisley Phyto-Cernes Éclat Eye Concealer) around the edges of your lips using a brush. “It creates a backdrop for bright color,” said Barose.
Judging by Nyong’o's past beauty performances, I’m hoping she shows up this weekend wearing a dramatic lip—and leaves with a win.
If you’ve never experienced Bite Beauty’s all-natural array of lip products, its Collector’s Edition might be the crash course you need to get acquainted with the brand. Twenty shades of its Luminous Créme lipsticks were selected to comprise a comprehensive gift set that almost replicates the mixing-matching experience you’d get at the company’s lab in Soho. Double-ended tubes make creating a custom color easier than ever—whether you want a multidimensional ombré effect (seen at Rag & Bone this past season) or, if you’re feeling extra adventurous, a two-tone look (circa Emanuel Ungaro Spring 2010).
Bite’s bullets are also packed with the antioxidant resveratrol (the same ingredient that justifies a nightly glass of red wine), so over time, fine lines and wrinkles around the mouth are diminished. Each duo is boxed separately to make sharing and stocking stuffing a snap, but we won’t tell if you take the Ebenezer Scrooge approach and keep them all for yourself.
Bite Beauty Collector’s Edition Lip Layers Set, $98; available at sephora.com.