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April 19 2014

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11 posts tagged "Lisa Butler"

NYFW Backstage Beauty Alert: Sunday Riley Takes Manhattan

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Last season, we broke the news that skincare guru Sunday Riley had teamed up with makeup artist Diane Kendal on a new makeup line that debuted backstage at Maiyet and Vanessa Bruno in Paris. After a stellar performance for Spring, it’s perhaps unsurprising that we’ve got some more news to break for Fall: Style.com just learned that Riley has landed a few impressive makeup sponsorships in New York, where her full line of complexion perfectors will be used backstage at Helmut Lang, Victoria Beckham, and The Row. These last two shows are particularly of note, as they have previously been showcases for big-name brands like Lancôme and Estée Lauder. But now it’s Riley’s foundations, eye shadows, lipsticks, and the like that will be in the very capable hands of Kendal as well as makeup artists Lisa Butler and Tom Pecheux, when the shows commence next week. In a word, pumped!

Photo: Courtesy of Sunday Riley

“Sick Smirks” Backstage At Antonio Marras

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Antonio Marras’ fascination with proportions and recycled fabrics inspired the twisted forties makeup that made a lasting impression at his show yesterday. With the collection taking its cues from the designer’s mother in the late 1940′s, a giant mood board featuring Mama Marras in her prime was erected backstage, complete with collage cutouts of lips and eyes, which were taped on top of the images’ own features. It was a bizarre and slightly jarring sight, which wasn’t lost on makeup artist Lisa Butler, who chose to focus her energy on re-creating a similarly disproportionate, enlarged mouth. “I didn’t want to get stuck in the forties with the makeup so I immediately avoided plum shades. I took a classic shade and twisted it,” she said. She constructed a two-toned pout by painting a slick of MAC Lipstick in Runaway Red—a matte crimson due out for fall—on both top and bottom lips and adding a coat of its Lip Pencil in Genuine Orange on the bottom only. The tonal experiment also had an off-kilter shape. “It’s got a joker element,” Butler pointed out with pride. “We’ve tipped up the corners of the lips, which gives an impression of a sick smirk, almost like we’ve drawn on a smile—it’s just a bit weird!” And how. But in a season that has offered up more straightforward red lipstick applications than we have room to mention here, weird is where it’s at.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Freewheeling Beauty Backstage At 3.1 Phillip Lim

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Phillip Lim’s Fall collection was inspired by that rare breed of stylish New Yorker who straps on her most impractical shoe and puts stiletto to bike pedal—and hairstylist Odile Gilbert was not about to divert from the plan. Sculpting what she referred to as “shogun bumps,” her Asian-influenced half-up/half-downs were both chic and bike-helmet-friendly (note to self for future riding expeditions). Prepping hair with a Kérastase Double Force Controle Ultime hair spray for structure, Gilbert brushed back tresses, coating them with a mix of its Elixir Ultime and its new-for-summer Chroma Crystal serum before dividing them into two sections. The top was pulled only a quarter of the way through an elastic to look like a samurai knot, while the under layer was treated to a deep wave courtesy of a three-pronged curling iron.

Picking up on Lim’s cycling directive, CND nail tech Angie Wingle was hard at work outfitting models with what appeared to be moon manicures, although the moon itself—a dollop of the brand’s upcoming limited-edition Midnight Sapphire painted on top of its Desert Suede—was actually meant to resemble the rubber from a bike tire.

Makeup artist Lisa Butler didn’t try to make any similarly clever commentary on two-wheelers. “There’s a lot of green in the collection,” she said of the inspiration for the shimmering jade and aqua lids that she crafted using the muted emerald shade from NARS’ Eyeshadow Trio in Delphes layered with the turquoise, dark hunter, and dusty lime pigments in its Eyeshadow Trio in Cap Ferrat. Butler turned to NARS’ forthcoming Larger Than Life Longwear Eyeliner in Rue de Rivoli (a metallic forest) and Abbey Road (a sparkling blue) to add dimension to the inner rims of models’ eyes before pressing a few smudges of its lipstick in Pago Pago—a new shade for fall—onto mouths. “None of the makeup has clean lines,” Butler pointed out. “There’s a round graphicness to it.” (OK, maybe a little clever commentary.)

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

The Nude Review, Backstage at Phillip Lim

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“He really lets me be quite spontaneous,” makeup artist Lisa Butler said of Phillip Lim, whose collection of neutral, modular sportswear inspired her “sculpted, clean” makeup look at the designer’s show yesterday. Using NARS Multiples to contour, Butler applied a combination of its Sheer Lipstick in Barbarella, a nude pink, and a similar as-yet-unreleased shade of its Pure Matte Lipstick in Madere, onto the tops of models’ cheeks for added dimension. Eschewing mascara and lipstick, Butler finished off the face with a simple application of NARS Eyebrow Pencils on the lash line, which she diffused outward for a softer effect. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert complemented Butler’s simplicity with an “effortless chignon, the kind every model does on herself.” Prepping hair with Phytovolume Actif, Gilbert created a front side part, which she twisted into a faux bang before adding it to an unstructured bun in back. After pulling a few wisps out to frame the face, Gilbert spritzed a halo of Phytolaque hairspray over her handiwork to hold everything together.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

Favorite Fall Haircut Alert At Phillip Lim

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Youthful rebellion was on the beauty agenda at 3.1 Phillip Lim yesterday. Think “disco, punk rock, Debbie Harry.” With the Blondie front woman as muse, makeup artist Lisa Butler sculpted cheeks with darker shades of foundation to contrast with models’ skin and really worked Nars Cosmetics’ Multiples in Riviera (a shimmering rose) and Luxor (an icy highlighter) on cheekbones and eyelids. A flat pink lip courtesy of Nars Pure Matte Lipstick in Bangkok, due out in the Fall, and requisite slashings of mascara and black eyeliner completed the homage. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert’s coifs channeled the New Wave icon, too, with middle parts and voluminous, fluffy texture courtesy of Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse. Our favorite element of the whole scene, however, was a nod to one of Harry’s very early hairstyles, a feathered cropped ‘do that Gilbert called an “umbrella.” “All of the shorter-haired girls are getting them,” she said, rolling sections of hair toward her and curling the ends up with a round brush before setting them with heat from the blow-dryer. We have six months to get up the courage to go that short so we can properly rock this glorified, wispy bowl cut next season.

Photo: Greg Kessler/ FirtView.com