10 posts tagged "Lisa Butler"
Antonio Marras’ fascination with proportions and recycled fabrics inspired the twisted forties makeup that made a lasting impression at his show yesterday. With the collection taking its cues from the designer’s mother in the late 1940′s, a giant mood board featuring Mama Marras in her prime was erected backstage, complete with collage cutouts of lips and eyes, which were taped on top of the images’ own features. It was a bizarre and slightly jarring sight, which wasn’t lost on makeup artist Lisa Butler, who chose to focus her energy on re-creating a similarly disproportionate, enlarged mouth. “I didn’t want to get stuck in the forties with the makeup so I immediately avoided plum shades. I took a classic shade and twisted it,” she said. She constructed a two-toned pout by painting a slick of MAC Lipstick in Runaway Red—a matte crimson due out for fall—on both top and bottom lips and adding a coat of its Lip Pencil in Genuine Orange on the bottom only. The tonal experiment also had an off-kilter shape. “It’s got a joker element,” Butler pointed out with pride. “We’ve tipped up the corners of the lips, which gives an impression of a sick smirk, almost like we’ve drawn on a smile—it’s just a bit weird!” And how. But in a season that has offered up more straightforward red lipstick applications than we have room to mention here, weird is where it’s at.
Phillip Lim’s Fall collection was inspired by that rare breed of stylish New Yorker who straps on her most impractical shoe and puts stiletto to bike pedal—and hairstylist Odile Gilbert was not about to divert from the plan. Sculpting what she referred to as “shogun bumps,” her Asian-influenced half-up/half-downs were both chic and bike-helmet-friendly (note to self for future riding expeditions). Prepping hair with a Kérastase Double Force Controle Ultime hair spray for structure, Gilbert brushed back tresses, coating them with a mix of its Elixir Ultime and its new-for-summer Chroma Crystal serum before dividing them into two sections. The top was pulled only a quarter of the way through an elastic to look like a samurai knot, while the under layer was treated to a deep wave courtesy of a three-pronged curling iron.
Picking up on Lim’s cycling directive, CND nail tech Angie Wingle was hard at work outfitting models with what appeared to be moon manicures, although the moon itself—a dollop of the brand’s upcoming limited-edition Midnight Sapphire painted on top of its Desert Suede—was actually meant to resemble the rubber from a bike tire.
Makeup artist Lisa Butler didn’t try to make any similarly clever commentary on two-wheelers. “There’s a lot of green in the collection,” she said of the inspiration for the shimmering jade and aqua lids that she crafted using the muted emerald shade from NARS’ Eyeshadow Trio in Delphes layered with the turquoise, dark hunter, and dusty lime pigments in its Eyeshadow Trio in Cap Ferrat. Butler turned to NARS’ forthcoming Larger Than Life Longwear Eyeliner in Rue de Rivoli (a metallic forest) and Abbey Road (a sparkling blue) to add dimension to the inner rims of models’ eyes before pressing a few smudges of its lipstick in Pago Pago—a new shade for fall—onto mouths. “None of the makeup has clean lines,” Butler pointed out. “There’s a round graphicness to it.” (OK, maybe a little clever commentary.)
“He really lets me be quite spontaneous,” makeup artist Lisa Butler said of Phillip Lim, whose collection of neutral, modular sportswear inspired her “sculpted, clean” makeup look at the designer’s show yesterday. Using NARS Multiples to contour, Butler applied a combination of its Sheer Lipstick in Barbarella, a nude pink, and a similar as-yet-unreleased shade of its Pure Matte Lipstick in Madere, onto the tops of models’ cheeks for added dimension. Eschewing mascara and lipstick, Butler finished off the face with a simple application of NARS Eyebrow Pencils on the lash line, which she diffused outward for a softer effect. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert complemented Butler’s simplicity with an “effortless chignon, the kind every model does on herself.” Prepping hair with Phytovolume Actif, Gilbert created a front side part, which she twisted into a faux bang before adding it to an unstructured bun in back. After pulling a few wisps out to frame the face, Gilbert spritzed a halo of Phytolaque hairspray over her handiwork to hold everything together.
Youthful rebellion was on the beauty agenda at 3.1 Phillip Lim yesterday. Think “disco, punk rock, Debbie Harry.” With the Blondie front woman as muse, makeup artist Lisa Butler sculpted cheeks with darker shades of foundation to contrast with models’ skin and really worked Nars Cosmetics’ Multiples in Riviera (a shimmering rose) and Luxor (an icy highlighter) on cheekbones and eyelids. A flat pink lip courtesy of Nars Pure Matte Lipstick in Bangkok, due out in the Fall, and requisite slashings of mascara and black eyeliner completed the homage. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert’s coifs channeled the New Wave icon, too, with middle parts and voluminous, fluffy texture courtesy of Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse. Our favorite element of the whole scene, however, was a nod to one of Harry’s very early hairstyles, a feathered cropped ‘do that Gilbert called an “umbrella.” “All of the shorter-haired girls are getting them,” she said, rolling sections of hair toward her and curling the ends up with a round brush before setting them with heat from the blow-dryer. We have six months to get up the courage to go that short so we can properly rock this glorified, wispy bowl cut next season.
No, this is not an archival image. It is in fact a tear from POP Magazine‘s Autumn 2008 issue—a study in glorious eighties excess, courtesy of makeup artist Lisa Butler. On the heels of a Thierry Mugler revival (in both the beauty and fashion worlds), the crazy contours, bold brows, and sculptural eye makeup on display here shouldn’t be all that jarring. “Blush is coming back with a vengeance!” confirms Lancôme makeup artist Andrew Sotomayor, who points out that the key components of eighties tribute makeup are bright lips and cheeks. If you’re not ready for razor-sharp accents, Sotomayor suggests pairing a more subtle blush color like Lancôme Blush Subtil in Shimmer Coral Sunset with a lipstick that matches it, like Lancôme L’Absolu Rouge in Sienna Ultime. As for those “winged” eyes, if you’re gonna go for it, remember to sweep your black shadow of choice underneath the lower lash line to fully enclose the eye—and start perfecting your best “blue steel” interpretation now.