9 posts tagged "Lucia Pica"
The dark lips? The sculpted cheeks? The sheer, smoldering eyes? Helmet Newton references were indeed afoot backstage at Roksanda Ilincic yesterday, where makeup artist Lucia Pica was channeling the photographer’s special brand of severe glamour. “Sophisticated and groomed, but not too pretty,” Pica elaborated, dragging MAC Fluidline Eyeliner Gel in Blacktrack along both the top and bottom lash lines and extending her brushstroke out toward models’ temples to create an elongated shape. For her next trick, Pica coated lids with MAC Eyeshadow in Cork, a sepia brown shade that enhances the natural color of the skin, before turning her attention to cheeks, which were sculpted with off-kilter shades of foundation and highlighted with a few finger dabs of MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Shell. As for that showstopping lip, Pica hand-blended an assortment of glosses with MAC Lipstick in Film Noir for a high-shine, deep berry finish—the first burgundy-hued pout we’ve seen thus far this season and the same shade that inspired manicurist Sophy Robson’s copper-tinged bordeaux nails. It was all delectably nineties with a slight seventies flair, thanks to long, loose waves that hairstylist Shon prepped with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam before middle-parting, setting for a curl, and brushing through.
Interestingly, a few girls turned up backstage with slightly bleached arches that Pica and Shon decided to leave as is, sending a mixed bag of brows onto the runway. Call us crazy, but we actually preferred the way the strong makeup and soft hair looked with the blocked-out forehead fringe. You too?
Never mind the pompom earrings at House of Holland on Saturday. It’s what was going on from ear to ear—specifically, the blush that makeup artist Lucia Pica conjured up using loose shadows and a lipstick—that has the London fashion set buzzing. Pica used a mix of MAC Pigment in Neo-Orange and its Eye Shadow in Gesso all the way across the face, stretching across the bridge of the nose, before topping off with the brand’s new-for-spring Lipstick in Pink Swoon: The resulting bright flush looked as if the models had just caught a healthy amount of sun. If you’re going for something more pink and less apricot, please direct your attention to makeup artist Dick Page’s similar application technique at Michael Kors.
Roksanda Ilincic had a touch of disco fever at her show in London yesterday, and backstage you could feel the boogie-oogie-oogie vibe, too, albeit in a post-aughts adaptation. Focused on creating something chic and modern, yet equally glam, makeup artist Lucia Pica used MAC Glitter in Reflects Gold and Beige on the inner corner of models’ eyes, extending the shimmery mix across the eyelids and onto the temples before spinning a fresh, wet look by smudging Vaseline along the bottom lash line. On the lips, she layered MAC’s Russian Red, Spice It Up!, and Cocochina—that perfect shade of chocolate berry that Charlotte Tilbury debuted at DKNY—for a dark, lacquered killer pout. The look truly came to life with hairstylist James Pecis’ ingeniously constructed fluffy, frizzy, flyaways—think Grace Coddington meets the towering Afros at Louis Vuitton’s Spring show. Wrapping sections of hair around pieces of wire in a figure eight shape, Pecis clamped them with hot irons then brushed each segment out, revealing soft, weightless, fuzzy manes that were meant to “move for the upbeat catwalk music.” And shake their groove things they did.
With New York fashion week behind us and the London shows quickly drawing to a close, there have been enough cameos by statement lips of the red, pink, and berry varieties to make a well-stocked collection of lipstick/lip stains compulsory for next season. At yesterday’s House of Holland show, the designer looked outside the box, as he is wont to do, and introduced a glossy cobalt into the equation to round out the dark lavender and fluorescent tomato pouts he also sent down the runway courtesy of makeup artist Lucia Pica. Seeing as how Holland capitalized on the popularity of black lips last season by choosing a midnight purple shade for his presentation, the off-kilter color wasn’t that jarring coming from him. It was, however, a bit of a surprise when it made a repeat appearance at Paul Smith Women—albeit in a more matte, Ceylon incarnation—joined by another round of bright orange-red, a deep wine, and even a lone shade of green. We’d say that the color blue is best left to the catwalk, although who knew the obsidian craze from last year would’ve been such a hit? Perhaps a few MAC Pro Lipmix shades for at-home color blending might also be a worthwhile investment come spring.