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July 26 2014

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72 posts tagged "Lucia Pieroni"

“Paris Meets Punk Rock” Backstage At Missoni

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What could have inspired our favorite lip of the season so far? Why, three of our favorite movies of all time, of course. Pulp Fiction, Wild at Heart, and True Romance all came up when makeup artist Lucia Pieroni described the saturated bordeaux lip she painted on at Missoni yesterday. “They’re cool girls that are slightly masculine,” Pieroni explained, lining mouths with MAC Lip Pencil in Beet, which she drew over the pout’s entire surface area to hold a precise painting of MAC Lipstick in Media. Add to this a bare complexion and a lower lash line that had been rimmed and smudged with MAC Technakohl in Graphblack and images of a burgundy-mouthed Patricia Arquette fighting James Gandolfini to the death quickly came flooding back. Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman followed suit with a masculine hair look that he called “Paris meets punk rock.” To complement the contrast of the soft and sweet pastel fabrics styled to mimic Teresa Missoni’s oversized aesthetic, Souleiman prepped hair with Wella Professionals Perfect Setting Blow Dry Lotion before applying heat and brushing strands backward at the root. Dividing tresses into a top and bottom section, Souleiman fashioned a French twist to anchor slicked-back sides and a pompadour-meets-ponytail flap that billowed back from models’ hairlines after being manipulated with Wella’s Texture Touch Reworkable Clay for a matte texture and piece-y finish. It was yet another example of Fall’s borrowed-from-the-boys hair experiments, but paired with Pieroni’s glam lip, beautiful and bad-ass had successfully joined forces.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

Swing On: The Sixties Trump The Seventies Backstage At Alberta Ferretti

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“Almost Twiggylike but with a boyish feel” is how hairstylist Guido Palau described the sleek, swooping chignons he constructed at Alberta Ferretti yesterday. Prepping hair with Redken’s Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow-Dry Gel, Palau carved out deep side parts and coated sections in Redken’s Quick Dry 18 Instant Finishing Spray before softly teasing to create “Bardot-like” height and texture in the back. His next move was to pull models’ manes into low-lying ponytails, which he twisted into buns and secured with bobby pins to hold. A good helping of Redken’s forthcoming Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist slathered onto the surface of the style provided that expertly molded, shiny effect.

The Queen of Carnaby Street was also well represented in Lucia Pieroni’s sixties makeup, which featured one of the era’s lasting beauty trends, spider lashes—which, it should be noted, seem poised for a resurgence for Fall 2011. (They’ve already been spotted this week at Gucci.) Leaving skin bare, save for a dusting of MAC Prep + Prime Finishing Powder and its Select Moisturecover Concealer where needed, Pieroni applied its Sculpt & Shape Powder in Sculpt along cheekbones for a highlighted sheen. Eyes were treated to a slick of MAC Paintpot in Groundwork, a dark taupe, for an exaggerated natural look, which Pieroni amped up using MAC Eyeliner in Coffee along the outer corners of both lash lines and multiple swipes of its Zoom Lash Mascara on both top and bottom lashes. To finish the look, Pieroni painted lips a shade of creamy nude/pink using MAC Lipstick in Snob. It was simple, subtle, yet somehow totally affecting—and ripe for at-home duplication.

Photo: Matt Lever / Courtesy of Redken

Giles, All Grown Up: “Strict, Uptight” Beauty For Deacon

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Remember the questionable, multicolored glitter eyes and outrageous rhinestone-encrusted nails at Giles last season? Well, they were gone for Fall, replaced instead with something of a demure dominatrix look. “I’m inspired by Victorian governesses and their strict, uptight style,” makeup mistress Lucia Pieroni clarified of the sculpted, defined lips that she made matte and vivid with a precise painting of MAC Lipstick in Ruby Woo. Similarly sanguine nails courtesy of manicurist Sophy Robson and squeaky-clean skin helped to further the severe, sophisticated effect. “I wanted it to have that scrubbed-with-soap-and-water look,” Pieroni explained of models’ complexions, which she dotted with clear MAC Lipglass on the tops of cheeks and along the eyelid.

Adding to the newfound injection of maturity present at the show was a constricted bun, pulled taught by coiffing star Ashley Javier. Prepping hair with Toni & Guy Label.m Smoothing Cream, Javier topped his low-slung chignons with a fishnet cap to ensure that not a single hair fell out of place. It was a perfectly-whipped-into-shape look for a collection that featured more than one waist-restricting corset—make that waist-restricting leather corset.

Pots And Paintings Turn Up Backstage At Rochas

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It’s rare that objects, rather than people, inspire makeup looks at the shows, but those unusual instances can often make for some of the most memorable beauty looks. Case in point: At Rochas yesterday, face painter Lucia Pieroni incorporated Dutch art into her makeup look, channeling Vermeer’s paintings and the strong blue glaze of Delft pottery. Starting with “pale, simple skin,” Pieroni traced MAC’s Chromaline Pencil in Marine Ultra around model’s eyes, blending it outward for the “pale, cold quality” of the Northern Lights in the summer. Models also got an opaque peach lip courtesy of MAC’s Paint Stick in Dusty Coral, which Pieroni described as “a bit off” but that contrasted nicely with those vivid sapphire lids. A wealth of painterly prints could also be found in the scarves Eugene Souleiman tied over loose buns and haphazardly placed gold combs before girls headed out onto the runway. To further emphasize the idea that the models organically pushed their hair back to keep it out of their face, Souleiman avoided product entirely—another backstage rarity.

Photo: Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com

Sage Advice Backstage At Alberta Ferretti

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We liked it backstage at Oscar de la Renta, and in its second outing at Alberta Ferretti’s Spring show yesterday, green eye shadow endeared itself to us even further. “Woodland nymph” is what makeup artist Lucia Pieroni was going for when she swiped MAC’s Eye Shadow in Juxt, a shimmering gilded moss color, onto models’ eyes, sheering it out as she moved toward the temple. A dusting of MAC’s Pigment in Vanilla on the center of lids provided that ethereal fairylike glow, which hairstylist Guido Palau complemented with what he called “natural bohemian hair.” Prepping strands with Redken’s Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow Dry Gel, Palau scrunched and finger-combed tresses as he dried, individualizing each model’s texture before she hit the runway.

Photo: Olivier Morin / AFP / Getty Images