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April 18 2014

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72 posts tagged "Lucia Pieroni"

Motorcycle Girls Meet Nature, Backstage at Giles

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gilesThis season, Giles Deacon moved on from his usual gothic location and into the heart of hipsterville near London’s Spitalfields market. It was a show that made the headlines for a bunch of reasons, namely its cast, which included Jourdan Dunn, Cara Delevingne and, in her London fashion week catwalk debut, Kendall Jenner. And let’s not forget the first-ever selfie straight from the runway (courtesy of Delevingne).

The action backstage before the show, however, was equally exciting. “Melancholy with a touch of techno.” This is how Label M’s global creative director, Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, described Giles’ Fall 2014 offering. The clothes, with their nature-inspired prints, were in stark contrast to the hair, which took its cue from girls who ride motorcycles. After being doused with Label M Sea Salt Spray, strands were brushed forward and blow-dried so that a crisp and matted texture was locked into the length. Next, a hair net was placed over the crown and blasted again with the dryer, this time using a diffuser. The effect, once the net came off, was that of helmet hair—flat and tight around the head.

Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni used MAC Eye Shadow in Copperplate over the lid and into the socket for depth before topping it with Scene (a smoky gray)—diffusing the pigment up toward the brow and outer corners to form an almondlike shape. To darken the upper lash line, Pieroni used Technakohl Liner in Graphblack and Eye Shadow in Carbon. And for a pop of vibrant color, Chromagraphic Pencil in Cyan was boldly etched along the entire length of the lower lashes and into the inner corners of the eye—picking up on the vibrant feathers of the kingfisher bird motif that flew in and out of the collection.

“Little Moments” Make a Big Impact, Backstage at Christopher Kane

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christopherkaneOutside of the clothes, brows were the stars of the show at Christopher Kane. Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni brushed arches up and filled them in with NARS Brow Perfector, the finished product resembling a young Brooke Shields. “These brows should look naturally full, not painted on,” Pieroni explained. She created a “shaft of light” down the center of faces with Illuminator in Copacabana and a forthcoming Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Andromeda. Highlights were placed over cheekbones, the bridge and tip of the nose, Cupid’s bow, and chin. A touch of Pure Matte Lipstick in Bangkok was pressed onto models’ mouths like a stain, and lashes—in what has become a defining feature for Fall 2014—were left bare.

Kane simply wanted “the girls to look like how they look,” said mane master Guido Palau. “Younger designers don’t tend to reference iconic women—they get off on how the model looks naturally. Little moments rather than big moments,” he noted. To craft these “little moments,” Palau used Redken’s Shine Flash for texture and sheen, keeping the length fairly straight and flat. To finish, he made a sharp center part and nonchalantly tucked the hair behind the ears. In the end, these subtle nuances brought the larger picture to life.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com

Mannequin Maquillage, Backstage at Jonathan Saunders

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jonathan-saundersToday at the Tate Britain, priceless oil paintings that are more accustomed to looking down on tourists witnessed the frenetic activity that goes into pulling together Jonathan Saunders’ Fall 2014 show.

Plasticized waves, designed to mimic those belonging to a mannequin, were born at the hands of hairstylist Luke Hersheson. He worked L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Gloss Control (a shine spray) and Liss Control (a gel) through strands with a fine-tooth comb, lending a shiny, artificial finish that looked painted on. In contrast, the length was simply flat ironed and tied neatly into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck.

Keeping with the mannequin theme, makeup artist Lucia Pieroni emphasized the high points of the face using MAC Pigment in Vanilla, making the skin appear almost waxy. A blend of Pigment in Orange and Paint Stick in White was buffed around the eyes, over the lid, and underneath the lower lashes. To bring a hint of life to the face, “a blood-red color” was pushed into the center of the lips.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com

Glowing in the Dark, Backstage at Vera Wang

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vera-wang“She’s a beacon of light in her face,” makeup artist Lucia Pieroni said backstage at Vera Wang. Seeing as the collection—described as “a bit wicked” by Pieroni—was composed entirely of black and gray, she decided to contrast it with an angelic, ethereal complexion. Two shades of Clé de Peau Beauté Luminizing Face Enhancer (Delicate Pink and Pastel) were dusted across the tops of cheekbones and down the bridge of the nose. Lids were based with a shimmery pink hue, silver was dabbed on the inner corners and center of the eye, and the upper and lower rims were subtly defined with a plummy brown—all colors from the forthcoming Eye Color Quad in Silver Eclipse. Lashes were curled but not coated with mascara, and a “biscuit-y” nude was slicked on lips. The emphasis was placed on a “strong, boyish brow,” which was made straighter with powder. The ten icy blonds that walked the runway, however, were the only models whose arches were left untouched. “They are the super angelic witches,” she said of the platinum crew.

The hair was “considered,” but “disheveled,” explained Jimmy Paul. A side part was made, Bumble and Bumble Cityswept Finish spray was blasted over the crown to flatten strands close to the head, and the ends were left clean. “This is real-girl hair,” he added. Nails were topped off with two coats of Jin Soon’s Mica—a charcoal lacquer boasting “chromatic” glitter particles that stood out against the matte wool tartans, but complemented the lamé cocktail attire.

Photo: Livio Valerio; Indigitalimages.com

Get Catty

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oh-hey-kitten

In honor of National Cat Day, Uber (a car service mobile app) partnered with Cheezburger.com (a Web site that specializes in online laughs) to put together a one-day promotion that entails fuzzy kittens arriving at your doorstep for fifteen minutes. In addition to a delightful snuggle, you’ll receive cupcakes from Ace of Cakes for $20 (with all proceeds being donated to local animal shelters). Does it really get any better? I seriously doubt it. But if you can’t get your arms wrapped around one of these covetable creatures that are currently being chauffeured around New York, Seattle, and San Francisco, you can get in on the celebration with this cat-eye look created exclusively for Style.com by makeup creative director of Clé de Peau Beauté, Lucia Pieroni. Here, the step-by-step straight from the face painter herself:

1. Apply Clé de Peau Beauté Intensifying Cream Eyeliner in Deep Black (101) across your top lashes, creating a thin line.

2. Starting at the inner corner, trace along your lashes once again until parallel with your pupil, then drag your brush straight across to form a sharp, upward feline flick.

3. Next, join the outer corner with the bottom line—extending it and filling in any white space.

4. Blend the line with a small, fluffy brush to soften any hard edges. (Note: This also helps make the shape bigger and more dramatic.)

5. Coat the lashes with lots of black mascara and add Clé de Peau Beauté Eye Liner Pencil in Black (201) onto the water line for definition.

6. Complete the look with a glossy nude lipstick. Or, if you dare, opt for a super-pigmented, bloodstained finish by blending Extra Rich Lipstick in Matilda (310) with Red Abundance (311).

Photo: Courtesy of Clé de Peau Beauté; Getty Images