63 posts tagged "Lucia Pieroni"
The Erdem girl has always been on something of an emotional journey. Two seasons ago, she was looking for love; last season, she had found it and lost it. This season, however, she gave up on the prospect of love altogether—and took a turn toward the dark side instead. “There’s a touch of Wednesday Addams about her,” makeup artist Hannah Murray confirmed backstage of the “spooky” beauty look. “The collection is quite dark, so the girl we’re creating is a little ghostly.”
Crafting “moonlit,” luminescent skin, using NARS Multiple in Luxor for a dramatic highlight, Murray blended its forthcoming Single Eye Shadow in Namibia, a dove-gray matte pigment, from the lash line right up to the brows to give a halo effect around the eyes. But the real focus was a set of magnificently groomed arches, which Murray crafted using NARS’ as-yet-unreleased Brow Perfector. “The brows are really important to this look, but they need to look real and not drawn on,” Murray explained, sketching individual hairs, rather than taking long sweeps with the pencil, to make the line look as natural as possible.
Rather than duplicate Wednesday Addams’ signature center part, hairstylist Luke Hersheson carved out severe side parts and poker-straight polished hair. “The positioning of the parting is critical with this look—it needs to be on the left-hand side and begin two-thirds of the way down the brows,” he pointed out, using L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Pli and Liss Control to give strands a super-glossy mirror-like finish.
When makeup artist Lucia Pieroni asked Christopher Kane for his Fall hair and makeup directive, he replied rather uncharacteristically. “There isn’t one,” the designer reportedly told the face painter. “This isn’t about a big ‘look.’ Rather, it’s about individuality,” Pieroni elaborated backstage. “We’re enhancing each girl, so that when they walk down that catwalk, they just look like better versions of themselves.”
Perfecting the skin with NARSskin Optimal Brightening Concentrate and its Luminous Moisture Cream, Pieroni did promote some uniformity via the flawless base that she created, using different shades of NARS Sheer Glow Foundation dotted with its Radiant Creamy Concealer. Cheeks were contoured with its forthcoming Single Eyeshadow in Yamal, a chocolatey brown, while cheekbones got a pearlescent glow courtesy of its Multiple in Copacabana. Depending on the model, Pieroni then drew a very fine stroke of NARS Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via dei Martelli close to the upper lash line to create definition.
In an interesting turn of events when it came to models’ manes, Kane brought in the big guns for his first show as part of the PPR family, in the form of Redken creative consultant Guido Palau—who, it should be noted, is typically a scarce sight in London. Prestige aside, Palau kept with the same light-handed approach, having models wash their hair with Redken Clear Moisture Shampoo before they arrived for their early morning call times. Then, dampening strands and rough-drying them with his trusty BaByliss Volare 1 dryer, Palau fashioned deconstructed center parts. “I’m not even using a brush,” he boasted, letting his fingers encourage a natural wave to “bring a touch of ease to the fashion.”
“A pinup who is not quite a pinup” is how makeup artist Lucia Pieroni described Jonathan Saunders’ woman for Fall while backstage at the designer’s show. “She’s a bit grunge, a bit nineties, and there is a touch of the Marilyn Monroe and Courtney Love about her,” Pieroni continued as she conducted mini facial massages on site with Clé de Peau Beauté Gentle Protective Emulsion. Citing the artist Allen Jones, Pieroni started in on “smudgy brown eyes” that she built by rimming waterlines with MAC Eye Pencil in Coffee before blending that out for a “worn-in” feel. Concentrating her mascara wand on the base of the lashes rather than pulling it through to the tips, Pieroni was quick to point out that this was not intended to be a “lashy look.”
Instead, the high-octane glamour came from the hair. In a rare departure from the signature lank “skinny hair,” which left an indelible impression on the New York shows, Paul Hanlon was hard at work on a style that was, dare we say, rather ladylike in its construction. Smoothing and polishing the cuticle, Hanlon fashioned deep side parts before using a medium-barrel curling iron to create a forties-era bend throughout lengths.
Lucia Pieroni is hands-down one of our favorite backstage beauty stars. Whether she’s sculpting contours and adding a signature slick of brown eye grease or upping the ante with a gorgeous, stamped-on lip, as was her habit for Spring 2013, there’s a certain level of classic artistry that goes into the Clé de Peau creative director of makeup’s work—which is to say, Pieroni doesn’t deal in the unflattering. Case in point: Even bleached brows couldn’t keep her red, matte mouths and luminous highlighting effort at Rick Owens’ Spring 2012 presentation from landing on the right end of hauntingly beautiful; we were actually so floored by the mulberry pout she dreamed up at Missoni for Fall 2011 that we made the lip pencil/lipstick cocktail our own personal go-to. Pieroni has that ability to make fashion fantasy a realistic, attainable one, which shouldn’t come as too big of a surprise considering she’s a pretty down-to-earth chick. The trained aromatherapist and yoga enthusiast with the wild curls dabbles in homespun beauty remedies, and isn’t afraid to bring homeopathic ones into the trenches. “It’s quite spiritual—in a positive way,” she said in Paris of the mood-lifting powers of a small bottle of calming mist that served as one of the many secret weapons she carried around in her kit this season. You’ve gotta love that. Click here to learn more about the British-born face-painting expert’s beautiful life.
Amid the wig-slinging chaos backstage at Rick Owens yesterday came a loud yell, followed by a soothing smell. “Luig,” Lucia Pieroni screamed from the makeup station across the room. “Have some of this.” She proceeded to spritz Murenu with something that, at first glance, looked like a face mist to cool off the hairdresser, who was in the throes of last-minute show preparations, but ultimately revealed itself to be an aromatherapy spray. “It’s all hippie shit,” Pieroni joked of the bottle of Australian Bush Flower Essences Calm and Clear Skin and Space Mist, poking fun at her crunchier side. “I usually use it on the airplane,” the frequent yoga retreater elaborated of the biogenic drops of black-eyed Susan, boronia, bottlebrush, bush fuchsia, crowea, jacaranda, little flannel flower, and paw paw extractions that she gave us a sampling of next. “It’s quite spiritual,” she said, “in a positive way”—which couldn’t be closer to the truth. Whether or not the pungent scent actually calmed our nerves, the unexpected backstage diversion was enough to put us in a totally different headspace.