39 posts tagged "Luigi Murenu"
Sex appeal is always expected backstage at Gucci, but this season, creative director Frida Giannini requested that face painter Pat McGrath and hair guru Luigi Murenu take a more athletic approach. “She wanted something sporty but still made up,” McGrath explained. In lieu of harsh pencils, a shimmery, golden-brown shadow was gently wrapped around the eyes—with the outer corners intensified in a sideways “V” shape for definition. To incorporate the copper shade that was threaded throughout the collection, McGrath added the same hue to the center of lids, working the pigment from the lash line up toward the crease. The top lashes were curled and coated with black-brown mascara, arches were filled in, and lips were left natural, with the exception of a clear balm for moisture. To add warmth, the makeup artist opted for a foundation—instead of often heavy and cake-y bronzers—one to two shades darker than each model’s complexion, blending it from apple to temple. A combo of cream and powder highlighters placed on cheekbones and brow bones lent a dewy effect to skin, and a touch of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream was applied to lids right before the models hit the runway for extra sheen.
Murenu created a style that played on the theme but was still “glam and exceptional.” To give hair oomph, he applied Kérastase Lift Vertige to roots and Mousse Bouffant throughout before blow-drying—using either a round brush or his fingers to add volume from forehead to crown. Once strands were dry, he wrapped small sections from the mid-length down around a curling iron to form loose waves. Murenu scraped the hair off the face with Elixir Ultime for Colour Treated Hair and worked it through to the ends for texture and shine that didn’t appear wet, greasy, or limp. “In my mind, I imagined Lauren Hutton going for a jog in the seventies,” he said. A few spritzes of Gloss Appeal were misted over top to finish. I might be more inclined to exercise if, at the end of it, I walked away looking as fabulous as a Gucci girl.
Throwback Thursday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Veruschka
The Moment: Plaits-a-Plenty
The Motivation: With fashion week officially beginning today, we thought it would be the perfect time to revisit a hairstyle staple that—in recent seasons—has dominated the runway: the braid. From Luigi Murenu’s plaited crowns at Viktor & Rolf for Fall 2013 to Guido Palau’s intricate, interwoven headbands for Valentino’s Couture collection the same season, the style is as versatile as it is popular. Case in point: the above shot of Veruschka from a 1967 issue of Vogue. While the legendary super’s face-framing ring of braids is more editorial than runway ready, we can’t help but wonder what new twists we’ll see on this catwalk classic for Spring 2014.
For those of you wondering if the Spring sentiment that sent models to the salon in droves in search of bobs and bowl cuts would return for Fall, the answer appears to be yes. As the shows officially come to an end today, with yet another wig moment at Louis Vuitton, we can confirm that designers are still very much feeling compelling crops. So can Guido Palau. “A lot of people want to see short hair this season,” Palau said backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier, where he was busy trimming “patchwork,” clipped-on-top mullets—a request that he, personally, has been fulfilling with frequency.
It all started at Dior Couture, where the Redken creative consultant gave every girl a convincing pixie cut. Then Palau honed his wig-shaping skills at Marc Jacobs, fashioning an army of Edie Campbells, the Brit It girl he gave a black dye job and a Joan Jett shag for an editorial months earlier. But it didn’t stop there. Sam McKnight picked up the torch at Clements Ribeiro in London, fashioning veritable faux-hawks, a style he reproduced at Fendi in Milan with tight braids accessorized with fox-fur hair pieces a few days later. Next up was Eugene Souleiman’s Rei Kawakubo tribute at Yohji Yamamoto, for which he replicated the Comme des Garçons designer’s architectural black bob, and the stunning pin curls Luigi Murenu designed for Riccardo Tisci’s breathtaking Givenchy collection. Then Karl Lagerfeld got in on the act at Chanel, ordering up colored, similarly graphic hats that sat on top of McKnight’s “done but not done” center-parted strands, thus creating a deceptively short silhouette on top of a long one. This morning, Palau brought it full circle, giving every one of Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton models—Kate Moss included—a “fifties, sort of French Left Bank” bob that was heavy on the mousse for an out-all-night effect.
The season’s overarching punk undertones may have had something to do with the wealth of conceptual cuts that made it onto the runway; nothing captures the subculture’s DIY attitude quite like lopping off excessive length. Suffice it to say, if you’ve ever considered parting ways with your long locks, now would be a great time to do it.
There was plenty to lust over at Givenchy. That jacket in look fifteen immediately comes to mind, although we are still thinking about nearly every single aspect of the exceptional forty-eight-piece collection Riccardo Tisci showed for the house—including that hair. “[Riccardo] called me in Milan and said, ‘I want to have a test with you and only you’—it was a test of eight hours,” Luigi Murenu recalls of the process by which he and Tisci, with whom he has worked since the designer started at Givenchy eight years ago, decided on the closely cropped, colorful coifs models wore down the runway. “Usually [the hair] here is very organic. But [Riccardo] wanted to bring the show to another level,” says Murenu. “When I arrived at the studio, the first thing he did was play me all the tracks of Antony and the Johnsons, and he told me, ‘It will be extremely emotional, and I want you to bring something sensitive to the hair.’”
So Murenu obliged Tisci with twenty different ideas that were “masculine but extremely feminine—not androgynous,” and, at Tisci’s request, “looked like there were little roses in the head.” The result was a number of tightly wound pin curls that Murenu and his team saturated with Kiehl’s Clean Hold Styling Gel and applied to every girl, no matter her haircut, completely sans extensions. “We used the length of Saskia [de Brauw] to the length of Isabeli [Fontana]—everybody’s natural hair!” he reveals of the deliberately flat swirls that were meant to have a “Victorian punk” quality, even though there was something seemingly thirties about the almost retro bathing-cap silhouette—those neon faux dye jobs aside. “Originally, it was without color,” Murenu admits of what ultimately became temporary shocks of sky blue, dark blue, orange, fuchsia, red, black, purple, and a light pink that was a real crowd-pleaser. “The girls loved it,” he maintains, pointing out that Natalia Vodianova was quite taken with her bubblegum-tinged locks, which went surprisingly well with Pat McGrath’s glossy red-burgundy-stained eyes and clean skin. She certainly wasn’t the only one: catwalkers like Magdalena Frackowiak and Isabeli Fontana kept their hair totally intact to hit the post-show party circuit. “It was extremely special,” Murenu muses. “We wanted to represent the woman who wants to dream, the people who appreciate the poetry of fashion” (to which we say, thank you).
Once showgoers got over the shock-and-awe of Viktor & Rolf’s relatively shock-and-awe-free collection, they likely shifted their focus from the unusually wearable clothes to the equally wearable—and downright beautiful—hair and makeup. “It’s pretty, non?” Luigi Murenu asked, looking over a gorgeous interwoven coronet. “It’s innocence and youth for once,” he joked—a remark that he, of all people, is more than qualified to make. As the design duo’s longtime coiffing collaborator, Murenu has been a part of his fair share of backstage heroics here that have included braids in the past, an apparent soft spot for monsieurs Snoren and Horsting, but braids that are almost always paired with something extreme (Fall 2011′s allover red faces immediately come to mind). This season, Pat McGrath’s “fresh, young, and finished” blush-colored lids and contours made the soft, texturized plaits Murenu treated with Kérastase Nutritive Mousse Nutri-Sculpt seem that much more accessible—and instantly covetable. Full disclosure: We tried to replicate Murenu’s center-parted, crisscrossing inverted French braids (also called Dutch braids, which is appropriate for the Amsterdam-based fashion house) this morning with little success. But, as they say, “If at first you don’t succeed, try try again”—and watch as many YouTube tutorials as you can find online.