335 posts tagged "MAC Cosmetics"
Duran Duran, Madonna, and Daria Werbowy were all name-checked by hairstylist Luigi Murenu backstage at Emilio Pucci. So what exactly do an eighties English rock band, the Queen of Pop, and a supermodel have in common? At one point or another, they’ve all sported the pushed-over look he re-created for the catwalk here. Not only does a swoop over one eye provide instant “cool girl” status, Murenu elaborated, but it also builds volume without having to fire up a blow-dryer. For additional lift, he spritzed Kérastase Lift Vertige on roots and worked Mousse Bouffante through dry strands for texture. He used a one-inch curling iron to add a slight bend, wrapping sections from the ear down around the barrel. Hair spray was misted all over to set, while Vinyle Nutri-Sculpt cream coaxed out layers and created a piece-y finish.
“We have a definite image for the Pucci girl that we’ve been developing over the past four or five seasons,” said face painter Lisa Butler. “The makeup is very secondary to this whole process.” She went on to explain that the house’s creative director, Peter Dundas, doesn’t love foundation or color on the face, but Butler managed to use plenty of both in a nearly undetectable way. To inject drama and dimension minus eye liner, lashes, or lipstick, she added depth to the skin by mixing a foundation that matched each model’s skin tone with the deepest bitter chocolate shade MAC carries in its Face and Body line. It’s a technique she’s often employed on shoots but hasn’t brought to the runway until now. “When you see girls [in photos] and they look grubby and mean, this is why—it makes them [appear] more moody,” Butler explained—an effect an orange-brown bronzer couldn’t possibly produce. A blend of Cultivating Chic and March Mist shadows (beige and gray shades from the MAC Spring ’14 Trend Forecast Eye Palette) was applied to the lids, up through the brows, and along the lower lash lines with a fluffy brush. The same combo (with a higher ratio of beige to gray) was dusted under the cheekbones to act as a contour. Butler squiggled brow pencil on the corners of arches and took the edge off with a bit of blending to make them appear “fluffier,” then used the same pencil to lightly dot freckles over the bridge of the nose and under the eyes. In the Mode (a taupe hue) was applied to take down redness in the lips, and New Groove (a wine) was pushed into the inner rim of the mouth (both colors in the Spring ’14 Trend Forecast Lip Palette). The finished product was a “groomed but not done” tough girl—an aesthetic that lent itself perfectly to the slick leather, athletic mesh, and heavyweight-champion-worthy boxing belts seen on the runway.
Similar to Donatella Versace last night, yet another designer known for excess—Roberto Cavalli—opted for simplicity when it came to beauty, juxtaposing beaded gowns, metallic fabrics, and snakeskin with pared-down hair and makeup. “Anything that looks like you’ve tried feels old; the not-caring theme is what makes it sexy,” said mane master Guido Palau. (Music to my ears, and to those of you whose styling skills are subpar.) To get the laid-back—but still polished—look the designer desired, Palau used his finger to make a messy center part, then tucked hair behind the ears. To add an element of control, he flattened the top section close to the scalp using Redken Shine Flash 02 and anchored strands in place with Fashion Work 12 (a hair spray). For girls with straighter textures, he wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron and raked through waves with his hands for natural bend and movement.
The makeup was equally as “raw,” face painter Diane Kendal said—a term she’s used a lot this season. After applying a light-coverage foundation, she smoothed MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Copper Beech under the cheekbones to gently contour the face. Casual Colour in Keep It Loose (a warm pinky-peach shade) was tapped on the apples and topped with Extra Dimension Blush in Pleasure Model to intensify the color. Kendal used a brush to run Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut in the crease of the eye and layered it with Copper Beech, blending the pigments with her fingertips to eliminate any harsh lines. Black cream liner was worked just along and in between the top lashes for definition. Sparkle Shadow in Tender Moon was then dusted over lids to make them appear wet (minus the gloppy grease so often used to achieve the effect), while lips were slicked with the Velvetease Lip Pencil in Mattely in Love for a non-shiny finish. To lend a “sweaty feel” to the face, Kendal patted Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré onto the surface of the skin.
To pick up on the silver thread running throughout the collection, Keri Blair mixed MAC Discothèque and Girl Trouble Nail Lacquers with Overlacquer (a top coat) to dilute the opaque polishes and create a sheer and shimmery “essence.” “It’s like mixing a clear gloss with lipstick,” she said of the process. The theme of Spring 2014 still remains the same (at least thus far): Less truly is more.
“I was asked to change the color of cream brocade shoes at an Alexander McQueen show. I used MAC Powder Blush in Dollymix to turn them pink!”
We pay homage to this MAC senior artist’s most memorable fashion week moment by displaying his beauty weapon of choice at left. Now we know how to dip-dye a pair of heels in a pinch.
It was a tale of two stories at Giles today, where the designer returned to Ave Maria Lane in London for another season. The gothic surroundings were at odds with the inspiration cited by hairstylist Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, who told us that Braveheart served as the thinking behind the matte finish and mussed-up plaits. Label M Resurrection Dust (a volumizing powder) was worked from roots to ends to provide a gritty and pliable texture. Miracle Fibre (a lightweight paste) was then smoothed over the sides to keep the lift intact on top, and the intricate braid—which took two hairdressers to craft—was nonchalantly draped over one shoulder.
“It’s not really makeup—it’s [very] light,” said face painter Lucia Pieroni when asked to describe the look. For the maquillage that was present, Pieroni took her cue from nineties supermodels and the Glen Luchford photographs that appeared on a handful of dresses in the collection. This translated into flawless complexions accented with just a touch of pink cream blush and a light patting of MAC Mixing Medium Shine over the tops of cheekbones. A rosebud shade applied to lips completed the glossy, glamazon look.
The real bling in the show manifested itself on models’ nails. Manicurist Marian Newman meticulously glued around 150 Swarovski crystals onto each girl’s tips. Looks like the nail art and sneaker craze (Adidas trainers were worn in lieu of fancier footwear) hasn’t yet been kicked—at least not on this runway.
When it comes to Ralph Lauren, you’re not going to find anything earth-shattering backstage—there will be never be a trendy lip color or daring eyeshadow, which some may find repetitive, or to put it bluntly, boring. I, however, appreciate a man who knows what he likes and sticks to the classics. And on the last morning of fashion week, who needs surprises? (After all, we’ve got Marc Jacobs for that.) But this season, instead of the low ponytail we know and love, there was a slight departure: Guido Palau switched things up with a more casual blowout. (Baby steps, ladies and gentlemen, baby steps.) He prepped damp strands with Redken Satinwear 02 from roots to tips, made a slightly off center part, then blew hair straight using a round brush. For a glossy finish, he applied a drop or two of Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine through the ends.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux added some sixties flavor to the face—citing Twiggy and Jane Birkin as muses. “We decided to play a little bit with that [theme], but in the Ralph world,” he said. And while Palau had his blowouts, Pecheux was able to use black mascara on both top and bottom—for the first time ever. But before he got to the exciting part, he perfected models’ complexions with a light layer of foundation and powdered the T-zone. Next, he sheered out MAC Mineralize SkinFinish Natural in Medium Deep (a bronzer) with translucent powder and swept it gently along the hollows of the cheeks, adding a touch of MAC Pleasure Model Extra Dimension Blush (the same shade used at Proenza Schouler, available for spring/summer 2014) just below the apples so as to not make the models look too “girlish.” After brushing brows up and curling the lashes, he took the 205 Mascara Fan Brush from MAC and coated the bottom lashes with Estée Lauder Sumptuous Extreme Lash Multiplying Volume Mascara in Extreme Black. As for opposing set, the wand that comes inside the tube did the job. Next, Pecheux rimmed the inner eye with an alabaster-colored liner pencil and drew a rough band across the upper lash line before diffusing the pigment up over the lid with a small, synthetic brush. “I used a white pencil [instead of powder] because I wanted to avoid flakes on the lashes,” he added. To make sure the fourth row could clearly see the fringe, he applied a second layer of mascara to the top lashes—this time using the fan brush to work the formula into the roots. The lips were dabbed with a simple balm. Sure, there was nothing truly revolutionary here, but I give Ralph Lauren points for taking some “risks.”