5 posts tagged "Maison Martin Margiela"
There is a distinctive chill in the air every morning that signals that summer is slipping away and school, layering, and latte specials like pumpkin spice are upon us. While I wish I could dig my proverbial heels in and hang on to the steamy nights and my beloved K. Jacques sandals, I know it’s high time to slip into literal stilettos and leather boots as fall rapidly approaches. However, I’ll be keeping Maison Martin Margiela’s trio of Replica fragrances that launched this month—Flower Market, Beach Walk, and Funfair Evening—close at hand to remind me of the warm weather. Based on the label’s Replica fashion line (a capsule collection inspired by vintage clothing and accessories from around the globe), these distinctive scents are meant to capture moments in time.
Each bottle boasts a fabric label similar to the one sewn into each piece in the Replica clothing collection. The tag explains the scent’s origin, provenance, and period, along with a description of the notes and which gender should wear it (in the case of all three, it’s female). While each eau is meant to embody an olfactory memory that resonates with everyone, perfumer Jacques Cavallier says he wanted to lend something new and unique to each fragrance. “I don’t like the notion of nostalgia. I prefer the idea of rediscovering those scents that have become part of us all,” he adds.
Flower Market is a “bouquet of textures,” explains Cavallier, who along with fellow nose Marie Salamagne used notes of freesia, rose, Sambac jasmine, and tuberose to evoke a Parisian marché aux fleurs (i.e., dewy petals, freshly cut blooms, and crushed leaves on the floor). While one might expect Beach Walk to smell of Coppertone and saltwater, a delicate blend of bergamot, lemon, pink pepper, and ylang ylang embodies a stroll along a sandy shore. The sophisticated composition of Funfair Evening—a combo of apple, star anise, marshmallow accord, and warm amber—is reminiscent of an amusement park (in this case, one in Santa Monica) and its sweet, cotton candy-laced air. In other words, no matter which scent you choose, a spritz or two will instantly transport you to summertime, when the livin’s easy—even during the nonstop hustle and bustle of New York fashion week.
$110 each; available at Margiela boutiques.
In typical Maison Martin Margiela fashion, the house’s latest fragrance offerring, called Replica, comes with a rather ambiguous branding message, which describes its new perfume trio as a “reproduction of familiar scents and moments of varying locations and periods.” Selecting a vague time, place, or moment as the starting-off point for a flacon—let alone three of them—is kind of a tall order, which is no doubt why the brand tapped top nose Jacques Cavallier for the job, a Firmenich mainstay who created the fragrances with Marie Salamagne right before signing on as Louis Vuitton’s exclusive, in-house perfumer last January. Cavallier is not one for nostalgia; “I prefer rediscovering scents that have become a part of us all,” he says, which is presumably why each of these bottles contain not one name, but a date, a destination, and an aromatic description: Beach Walk, which is set in Calvi circa 1972, is a reminiscence over a spray of ocean, bergamot, and pink pepper on ylang-ylang, coconut milk, musk, and heliotrope caught in a sun-kissed, salty breeze; Funfair Evening recalls Santa Monica after dark in 1994, with music and neon lights and a carrousel of apple and caramel and marshmallow essences anchored by musk and amber (“sweeter notes need contrasts,” Cavallier explains); and Flower Market, an ode to “a bouquet of raw textures” in Paris of last year, is an homage to crushed leaves, water in buckets, and dominants of freesia, rose, jasmine, and tuberose that mingle with a touch of moss. The fragrances are rolling out exclusively to various European locations in the weeks ahead, but if your summer plans do not include a jaunt across the pond, they’re also being sold online at Colette and Selfridges starting this weekend—and both ship internationally. The Internet; what can’t it do?
Fresh off its Consumer’s Choice Award nomination at the FIFIs this week for its Untitled fragrance, Maison Martin Margiela is back with some more beauty news. The brand just revealed Replica, a trio of fragrances that are meant to mimic its Replica clothing line, a seasonal capsule collection based on duplicating garments and accessories found in flea markets. Each of the three scents, Flower Market, Beach Walk, and Funfair Evening, subsequently evokes certain olfactory triggers in our collective memory. They launch in Europe this summer, but won’t hit the States until next year. [WWD]
Topshop has announced that Louise Gray will be its next collaborator, and the London designer’s offerings won’t be limited to clothes. The mass retailer is promising a line of fluorescent glitter and creamy eye shadows from Gray as well. [Fashionista]
Since transitioning her blond shag with bangs into a severe shade of brunette with a side shave, Rihanna has been pretty loyal to a single hairstyle—until last night’s American Idol finale, that is, where she sported a towering mass of dreadlocks. [People]
The fashion industry is on the move. This week, as the menswear collections continue in Paris, womenswear shows have started up in Berlin and Hong Kong and moved from Rio to São Paulo, with a runway appearance by Jesus Luz to boot! (Madonna’s arm candy walked at the Ellus show yesterday with red-haired glamazon Cintia Dicker.) As per usual, though, we’re less interested in star-stalking than we are in hunting down blog-worthy backstage beauty looks for at-home trial and error and general amusement. We got both when perusing images from the latest Brazilian shows. Proenza’s Spring 2010 colored hair streaks turned up yet again, this time at Triton, where the dip-dyed mid-lengths twisted into contrasting chignons looked like a fun way to wear the increasingly popular style, if and when you decide to jump on the rainbow-colored bandwagon. Ronaldo Fraga, meanwhile, channeled Martin Margiela’s 20th anniversary Spring 2009 presentation and had his hair team put thick braids in front of models’ faces and masks above their necks. Do not try this at home.
First came the renovations on that Ile aux Oiseaux suite at Les Sources de Caudalie Spa in Bordeaux. Now the new Maison Martin Margiela—which is operating sans its namesake founder—is launching a perfume. Staying true to its no-label approach, the brand’s first scent is simply called Untitled. Created by Firmenich perfumer Daniela Andrier—she of Gucci Rush for men fame as well as the nose behind Prada’s latest scent offering, L’Eau Ambrée—the unisex fragrance “can be worn by anyone, anywhere,” or so says its press release. Based around green floral notes, the eau includes hints of galbanum, incense, and bitter orange, and while it won’t launch stateside until the spring, it will have its world-exclusive preview at Colette next week on the 25th. Set your phone alarms.