2348 posts tagged "Makeup"
The fashion set flocked to London’s Hyde Park for the Serpentine Gallery’s annual summer soiree. It was the catwalkers who kept it simple last night, however, that ultimately won out (in terms of beauty, at least): Arizona Muse and Cara Delevingne.
Both models kept their looks fairly unfussy, ensuring that melted makeup and incessant touch-ups wouldn’t be a part of their party agenda. Delevingne, whose brows have always been an iconic asset, paired her arches with a thick, black band along her top lashes, while Muse accentuated her dark blond strands with defined brows, liner, and a few swipes of mascara. As we venture into the dog days of summer, we’ll be keeping the following budge-proof basics close at hand: MAC Cosmetics Pro Longwear Waterproof Brow Set and Tarte Lights, Camera, Lashes Precision Longwear Eyeliner.
This summer Beyoncé is On the Run and her makeup artist, Sir John, is keeping pace. We caught him on a rare day off between the tour and shooting an ad campaign with Joan Smalls before he heads back to Bey’s side for the remainder of the summer. Here, the pro breaks down how to get the “Rolls-Royce of smoky eyes,” Mrs. Carter’s fifteen-minute face, and the secret to her allover glow.
Get Beyoncé’s “Three-Point” Gilded Lids:
“I think a lot of girls feel like, ‘I can’t do a smoky eye unless it’s a navy or a black or dark brown,’” said Sir John, “and I wanted to totally get rid of that myth and do a gold [version].” To get the look, he begins by “anchoring” the eye with a coffee-colored eye kohl on top and bottom, elongating the silhouette to create a feline shape. To keep Beyoncé’s shadow completely budge-proof while she breaks it down onstage, he bases the entire lid with a long-wear cream liner before topping it with matte taupe and brown shadows on the outer and inner corners and along the bottom lash lines. For more dimension and shine, he places “antique gold” pigment in the center and around the tear ducts to reflect light. “This technique works well for [anyone] with flatter lids because it gives the eye a three-dimensional quality,” he noted. And since Tammy Faye Bakker served as a beauty reference, there’s naturally tons of mascara and plenty of falsies. “We’re using about seven [clusters of individual lashes] per eye on the top, and about two on the bottom,” he explained. The true key to achieving a stage-worthy smoky effect, he said, is to start with the eyes before applying foundation or concealer and setting aside ample amount of time to get it right—Sir John suggests giving yourself at least twenty minutes. The finishing touch (aside from her signature glow) is a swipe of shimmery “cinnamon” lipstick.
Get Beyoncé’s “Fifteen-Minute” Face:
On nights when Bey and crew are pressed for time, Sir John whips out her second signature look: cat-eyes and shocking orange lips. “We’re going to go back and forth between the two, but what’s going to run parallel in both looks is the fact that there’s this feline sensibility to the eye,” he explained. Inspired by traditional Arabian liner, Sir John uses a black waterproof gel formula and brush to apply—placing a point on the outer corner where the wing will end to avoid any “lopsided situations.” He also rims underneath the top lash line for extra intensity. On the lower waterline he employs a coffee shade, blending it gently down onto the bottom lashes. “I do black on the top and [brown on the bottom], but all of this registers as black onstage,” he said. “If I do black [all the way around], it can make a person look tired.” After perfecting the shape with skinny cotton swabs, he polishes off the look with a shimmer-free “Crayola orange” lipstick. “It’s summertime, so there’s no better time to pull if off,” he said. “We’re in stadiums—like World Cup-size stadiums—so we wanted something that would read to the rafters and give her face a sense of life and vitality.” While he was inspired by ladies in straw hats and tangerine lipstick on the beaches in Florida, Sir John assured us that Bey doesn’t appear anything like a “retiree from Boca” onstage. “Shout-out to the retirees from Boca, though!” he quipped.
Get Beyoncé’s Summer Glow:
Unlike the Mrs. Carter tour, there’s no “dolly-ness” to the blush this time around. Sir John uses a “rusty peach” to add warmth to Beyoncé’s skin and create a “seventies, Bianca Jagger in the daytime” feel. The trick to her gorgeous sheen (and not a shiny T-zone) is to keep the front of Bey’s face free from shimmer—applying a matte peach on the apples and a “dark cinnamon shimmer” along the hollows of her cheekbones for shadow and depth. “It’s the perfect dichotomy of luster without looking sweaty,” he said. For additional color, he employs a trick used by music legends like Diana Ross and Cher: “Sometimes I’ll use that same matte peach—almost like the eighties—behind the brows, on the temples of the cheeks, and on the chin. When she’s onstage, you don’t know there’s blush on her forehead, it just gives her this ‘alive’ appearance.” For the rest of Bey’s body, Sir John lubes up her limbs with a rich face cream in lieu of a formula designed for all over. (And for her complexion, he reaches for eye cream.) “A lot of people expose their body to sun so much more than their face, so they should really approach [caring for] the skin on their body maybe even more [carefully] than they do their [complexion],” he said.
Get Beyoncé’s Budge-Proof Base:
In show where at times the Queen wears fishnet over her face and her makeup is up against sweat and humidity, Sir John’s biggest task is to prolong the life of her maquillage. His first step is to create a smooth canvas via a glycolic scrub or enzyme peel—something Bey uses once or twice a week. “When you increase your cell turnover [via a scrub or glycolic peel], your foundation is going to adhere a lot longer, your primer is going to work better, and your moisturizer is going to penetrate deeper,” he said. And when it comes to the cosmetics he layers on her complexion, if it doesn’t have long-wear technology or waterproof properties, Sir John doesn’t go near it. His other trick is to double up: “I use a foundation and also a powder. I use a cream highlighter and then a powder highlighter. I use a cream blush and then a powder blush. Everything I apply has a dual layer and doesn’t move.”
Come Clean Like Beyoncé:
With waterproof formulas comes the challenge of removal. Sir John packs Bey’s kit with an oil-based makeup remover so that she can apply it to a cotton pad, hold it on her eye, and wipe away that stay-put smoky eye en route to catch a flight to the next locale. “You don’t need to scrub or be so aggressive around your eye area,” he said. He also tucks a toner into her toiletry bag to “normalize and balance her complexion’s pH before she goes to bed.” It’s a step every woman should take. As they say, you have as much time in the day as Beyoncé, so don’t skimp on skincare.
As someone who spends the majority of the summer under a beach umbrella or running to the “shady” side of the street on the way to the subway, “working on my tan” isn’t on my to-do list. You won’t find spray tanning on there, either. In other words, as a cab driver once told me in Morocco, I am “white, like a chicken.” (Hey, I’ll be having the last laugh when everyone else is agonizing over wrinkles.) But if there’s anyone who understands my plight, it’s makeup artist Nick Barose, who attends to fair-skinned stars like Kate Mara, Lena Dunham, and Emma Roberts. Here, he offers his top product picks for believably boosting your glow.
Nicola Peltz, who stars in the latest Transformers blockbuster, is on a serious beauty streak (just check out her smoky eye from last weekend for proof). And for the up-and-comer’s Violet Grey feature, she showed off another lid look that had us swooning over our computer screens. Inspired by the lush garden setting, makeup artist Kate Lee said, “I wanted something that was bright and fresh but would also play up her eye color. This peachy pink was perfect.” Keeping the rest of the face relatively bare, the face painter reached for Chanel Le Blush Crème in Presage, a blendable formula that’s more forgivable and less intense than powder. “The key to applying a color like this is to take a soft, domed eyeshadow brush—I used Laura Mercier’s Ponytail Brush. First, lightly swirl the bristles into the Chanel cream blush, and in a painterly manner, gently sweep the brush along the socket, blending very lightly out to the brow bone and inwards to the lash line,” she explained. The finishing touch was one coat of Serge Lutens Cil Cellophane Mascara. While we never really considered using the spectrum seen at sunset across our lids, hot young things like Peltz and model Gigi Hadid encourage us to think beyond the beige.
Typically on Beauty Counter, we talk about erasing spots, but one look at Olivia Munn at last night’s screening of Deliver Us From Evil in New York City and you can clearly see why you should embrace a smattering of sun-induced freckles. We love that the celeb let hers take center stage (aside from an attention-grabbing berry lip) by keeping her base makeup minimal and sheer. For a foundation that reveals your flecks, try Perricone MD No Foundation Foundation Serum, a new fluid formula that offers a light veil of dot-baring coverage.