16 posts tagged "Marc By Marc Jacobs"
Pigtails are staging a comeback for the over-10 set: Guido Palau doubled up on braids for Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall ’14 collection, Chloë Sevigny arrived at the Met ball with two inverted twists in tow, and Hanneli Mustaparta wore fluffy ponies front-row at Dior Resort. Reminiscent of MBMJ’s fierce manga-meets-ninja models, Zendaya Coleman hit the BET Awards last night sporting superlong, tight plaits with a black cap, oversize hoops, a bomber jacket, and tiny bralette. Coleman proves that the key to pulling off bad-girl braids is to wear an equally edgy outfit; with a flirty dress or gown, it would have been all wrong. You can also take beauty cues from the new MBMJ ad campaign and add some unexpected color (and shock value) to a milkmaid iteration.
“It’s a little bit ninja, a little bit manga, a little bit Wednesday Addams,” hair pro Guido Palau explained of the inspiration behind the braided pigtails at Marc by Marc Jacobs. “The clothes are a bit more sophisticated this season, so the hair had to be quite young, but still have an edge to it—a sweet-and-sour kind of effect.” He began by working Redken Shape Factor 22 sculpting cream through the strands, rough-drying them, and finishing with a Pillow Proof Blow Dry Two Day Extender (a dry shampoo) for texture and control before forming two schoolgirl-esque plaits. Then a black headband was slipped on and the hairline scruffed up to lend the look a punky vibe. The end result was “a cartoonish kind of a character,” Palau noted.
To help those pigtails feel more badass, makeup pro Dick Page densely rimmed the upper and lower waterlines using black cream liner and a soft lip brush, then “piled on the mascara.” He kept the skin as bare as possible—opting out of both a mouth and a cheek. “It’s the gesture of a kid who is trying makeup for the first time,” he said. Well, at least one who’s very adept at applying eyeliner.
Throwback Thursday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Pola
The Moment: Contrasting Colors
The Motivation: Fashion and beauty go hand in hand, and this season’s catwalks proved again just how true the saying is. From Marc by Marc Jacobs to Prada to Céline to Miu Miu, blocks of color covered models’ lids in much the same way these daring shades dominated the runways. A prime example: Prada’s street art-inspired set and coats. And so it was with plenty of excitement that I discovered the above shot (lensed by one of the greats, Irving Penn). By pairing a bold, glossy lip with even bolder eyes, model Pola makes yet another strong case for the rewards associated with breaking the beauty rules. After all, life is never just black and white.
The look at Marc by Marc was characterized by a single—but colorful—gesture, explained makeup artist Dick Page. He disregarded trends and even the palette of the collection, citing only David Bowie as a reference. “It’s just a lop of color on the eye,” he stated rather matter-of-factly. To create this graphic blue block, he started by applying Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Ice in a crescent shape with a brush—placing it along the lash line from inner to outer corner and filling in the lid. He followed this same pattern with a powder formula in Curacao, a shade from the Limited Edition Eye Color Bar, using a “windshield wiper” motion to lay down the pigment and diffuse the edges. “When the model is looking directly at you, I only wanted you to see a halo of color,” he said. Any fallout was cleaned up before applying a light layer of foundation, and lips were left bare, save for a moisturizing balm.
Guido Palau created an equally simplistic hairstyle with a bit of rock ‘n’ roll edge. He started by prepping damp strands with Redken Satinwear 02, and blew the hair straight and flat to the head. To add a bend, he wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron—starting midlength and leaving the ends out. Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine was glossed over the top to add weight. “I wanted the hair to feel lank—not flyaway, floaty, or romantic,” said Palau. After misting all over with hairspray, he tucked strands behind the ears and wrapped a silk scarf around the neck (a technique we saw earlier in the week at Thakoon) to add back a bit of “natural movement.” And while some of the girls had a black or cream scarf incorporated into their looks on the runway, “as if they had caught their hair in it,” he explained, the accessory was removed from the rest of the models before hitting the catwalk.
If you were wondering what shade was slicked on nails, it was Jacobs’ favorite color, of course: Shiny (i.e., clear).
Arriving backstage at Marc by Marc Jacobs was a slightly jarring experience, for two reasons: first and foremost, it’s a rare occasion to see Jacobs and his glam squad of Shiseido artistic director of makeup, Dick Page, and Redken creative consultant Guido Palau at the tents. Also throwing us off was the deliberate, albeit uncharacteristic, tinge of glamour behind the hair-and-makeup look. “It’s a bit more prim,” Page said of the designer’s Fall collection, which prompted him to slick on an impossibly glossy, “spunky” red lip for the occasion.
“I’m using an OCD lip technique,” he joked of a nonstop layering effort by which he blended Shiseido’s forthcoming shades of its Lacquer Rouge in Sanguine, a deep red, and Drama, a rosy crimson, keeping the skin “quite real” with minimal coverage foundation. Eyes were given a neutral slick of Shiseido’s Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable, a warm brown, which Page defined with the same product in Caviar, a rich black, on the outer third of the upper lash line. As a finishing touch, he blended the colors together with Shiseido’s Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment for a greasy finish.
“It’s a take on the forties meets seventies,” Guido Palau offered of the beauty look, which included side-parted pin curls that had been prepped with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam, put through a barrel curling iron, brushed out, and teased before models hit the runway, so the style wasn’t “too lady” and a little more “disheveled.” Slipping a bobby pin into the front of the hairline to create “a kiss” over the eyes, Palau spritzed a halo of Redken Fashion Work 12 Versatile Working Spray over the entire head for hold.