14 posts tagged "Marc By Marc Jacobs"
Throwback Thursday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Pola
The Moment: Contrasting Colors
The Motivation: Fashion and beauty go hand in hand, and this season’s catwalks proved again just how true the saying is. From Marc by Marc Jacobs to Prada to Céline to Miu Miu, blocks of color covered models’ lids in much the same way these daring shades dominated the runways. A prime example: Prada’s street art-inspired set and coats. And so it was with plenty of excitement that I discovered the above shot (lensed by one of the greats, Irving Penn). By pairing a bold, glossy lip with even bolder eyes, model Pola makes yet another strong case for the rewards associated with breaking the beauty rules. After all, life is never just black and white.
The look at Marc by Marc was characterized by a single—but colorful—gesture, explained makeup artist Dick Page. He disregarded trends and even the palette of the collection, citing only David Bowie as a reference. “It’s just a lop of color on the eye,” he stated rather matter-of-factly. To create this graphic blue block, he started by applying Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Ice in a crescent shape with a brush—placing it along the lash line from inner to outer corner and filling in the lid. He followed this same pattern with a powder formula in Curacao, a shade from the Limited Edition Eye Color Bar, using a “windshield wiper” motion to lay down the pigment and diffuse the edges. “When the model is looking directly at you, I only wanted you to see a halo of color,” he said. Any fallout was cleaned up before applying a light layer of foundation, and lips were left bare, save for a moisturizing balm.
Guido Palau created an equally simplistic hairstyle with a bit of rock ‘n’ roll edge. He started by prepping damp strands with Redken Satinwear 02, and blew the hair straight and flat to the head. To add a bend, he wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron—starting midlength and leaving the ends out. Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine was glossed over the top to add weight. “I wanted the hair to feel lank—not flyaway, floaty, or romantic,” said Palau. After misting all over with hairspray, he tucked strands behind the ears and wrapped a silk scarf around the neck (a technique we saw earlier in the week at Thakoon) to add back a bit of “natural movement.” And while some of the girls had a black or cream scarf incorporated into their looks on the runway, “as if they had caught their hair in it,” he explained, the accessory was removed from the rest of the models before hitting the catwalk.
If you were wondering what shade was slicked on nails, it was Jacobs’ favorite color, of course: Shiny (i.e., clear).
Arriving backstage at Marc by Marc Jacobs was a slightly jarring experience, for two reasons: first and foremost, it’s a rare occasion to see Jacobs and his glam squad of Shiseido artistic director of makeup, Dick Page, and Redken creative consultant Guido Palau at the tents. Also throwing us off was the deliberate, albeit uncharacteristic, tinge of glamour behind the hair-and-makeup look. “It’s a bit more prim,” Page said of the designer’s Fall collection, which prompted him to slick on an impossibly glossy, “spunky” red lip for the occasion.
“I’m using an OCD lip technique,” he joked of a nonstop layering effort by which he blended Shiseido’s forthcoming shades of its Lacquer Rouge in Sanguine, a deep red, and Drama, a rosy crimson, keeping the skin “quite real” with minimal coverage foundation. Eyes were given a neutral slick of Shiseido’s Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable, a warm brown, which Page defined with the same product in Caviar, a rich black, on the outer third of the upper lash line. As a finishing touch, he blended the colors together with Shiseido’s Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment for a greasy finish.
“It’s a take on the forties meets seventies,” Guido Palau offered of the beauty look, which included side-parted pin curls that had been prepped with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam, put through a barrel curling iron, brushed out, and teased before models hit the runway, so the style wasn’t “too lady” and a little more “disheveled.” Slipping a bobby pin into the front of the hairline to create “a kiss” over the eyes, Palau spritzed a halo of Redken Fashion Work 12 Versatile Working Spray over the entire head for hold.
Call Donald Trump a fraud and get a free ticket to his lawyer’s office. The real estate mogul and head of the Miss Universe organization has vowed that Miss Pennsylvania, Sheena Monnin, will see a lawsuit before a tiara after she alleged that last weekend’s Miss USA pageant’s top five contestants were chosen “before the show ever started.” [AFP]
Have you ever wanted a manicure of Ryan Gosling’s face? No? Well, should the mood ever strike you, that motif is officially now an option. [Refinery 29]
A few weeks after sending the blogosphere abuzz with news that she would bare her makeup-free face in her new movie Part of Me, Katy Perry reveals why she shed her warpaint. “We’re not always so pretty, and sometimes that can bring people together.” [Huff Po]
Matte lips have dominated the Fall runways this season, and more often than not they have been painted classic shades of red. Backstage at Victoria Beckham and Marc By Marc Jacobs in New York, lips were a perfect crimson hue, while a precise slick of scarlet ruled at PPQ in London and Rick Owens this week in Paris. But another pout color is starting to stake its claim on the season, and it’s gaining ground with each passing day: behold, the dark mulberry mouth. We got the our first glimpse of it in Milan, where Pat McGrath coined the “dark romance” effect at Gucci before creating “shading and contrast” at Bottega Veneta with paled-out skin and another burnt-cherry lip that she lined with a black eye liner and then filled in with a blackened-red pigment. Lucia Pieroni picked up on the idea at Rochas, where she crafted a dark wine-stained, “stamped-on” lip to complement the rich color palette of Marco Zanini’s collection. Then today at Viktor & Rolf, McGrath captured the enchanted show’s “witchy elegance” with a burgundy pout that she described as “gothic glamour.” This last incarnation had the addition of a high-gloss shine, which the makeup artist applied just before models hit the run way to avoid any, er, sticky situations.
The color is striking on a host of different complexions, but the real secret to pulling it off lays with a good lip liner. “[They're] brilliant!” Pieroni effused at Rochas of the colored pencils that can retain even the wiliest of lipstick bullets. Pro tip: For a true matte finish, apply your liner around the perimeter of the mouth and in the center before adding your lipstick. Blot with a tissue, dab with finger-patting of translucent powder, then apply the liner to the surface of the mouth again to thoroughly remove all traces of shine.