15 posts tagged "Marc By Marc Jacobs"
Matte lips have dominated the Fall runways this season, and more often than not they have been painted classic shades of red. Backstage at Victoria Beckham and Marc By Marc Jacobs in New York, lips were a perfect crimson hue, while a precise slick of scarlet ruled at PPQ in London and Rick Owens this week in Paris. But another pout color is starting to stake its claim on the season, and it’s gaining ground with each passing day: behold, the dark mulberry mouth. We got the our first glimpse of it in Milan, where Pat McGrath coined the “dark romance” effect at Gucci before creating “shading and contrast” at Bottega Veneta with paled-out skin and another burnt-cherry lip that she lined with a black eye liner and then filled in with a blackened-red pigment. Lucia Pieroni picked up on the idea at Rochas, where she crafted a dark wine-stained, “stamped-on” lip to complement the rich color palette of Marco Zanini’s collection. Then today at Viktor & Rolf, McGrath captured the enchanted show’s “witchy elegance” with a burgundy pout that she described as “gothic glamour.” This last incarnation had the addition of a high-gloss shine, which the makeup artist applied just before models hit the run way to avoid any, er, sticky situations.
The color is striking on a host of different complexions, but the real secret to pulling it off lays with a good lip liner. “[They're] brilliant!” Pieroni effused at Rochas of the colored pencils that can retain even the wiliest of lipstick bullets. Pro tip: For a true matte finish, apply your liner around the perimeter of the mouth and in the center before adding your lipstick. Blot with a tissue, dab with finger-patting of translucent powder, then apply the liner to the surface of the mouth again to thoroughly remove all traces of shine.
While François Nars chose to counter the dilemma a hat-heavy collection presents to a makeup artist with a heavily rimmed lower lash line at Marc Jacobs, Dick Page made an equally strong statement by pairing a bold red lip with the tall, short-brimmed headgear at Marc by Marc. “It’s borderline cartoon-y,” the Shiseido artistic director said of the perfect scarlet pouts that were meant to look “stamped on.” To achieve this effect, Page had the Shiseido lab whip up a prototype product that resembled spreadable crayon wax. “It’s house paint, basically,” Page joked. ”It’s what lipstick is like before you put all the emollients in.” As a result, Page and his team had to hand-paint the stuff onto lips with an angled brush to ensure that it blended properly. Skin was kept otherwise bare, with the exception of a few swipes of Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold, which the face painter applied to eyes for “a halo effect.”
With only six girls wearing the black toppers, hairstylist Guido Palau got to play a little more than he did at Jacobs’ show on Monday night. Using Redken’s Satinwear 02 Blow-Dry Gel, he gave every model a severely straight texture that he coated with its Outshine 01 Anti Frizz Polishing Milk and fashioned into a deep side part. ”Keep it square! The part is on the hairline,” he instructed his team, fastening low-slung ponytails that boasted blunt-cut ends for uniformity.
As my angled bob continues to barrel through awkward stage after awkward stage on its way to achieving its full regrowth potential, I’m constantly on the hunt for new ways to wear my hair. The Spring shows, as they so often do, offered up a considerable number of options—some more doable than others without the assistance of a professional—including updates on the ponytail that include the incorporation of an old favorite: barrettes. Your favorite childhood hair accessory and mine has gone through a few runway revivals of late, with floral, beaded, and crystal-encrusted embellishments turning up as one of the key trends from the Spring 2011 shows last September. This September, it was Guido Palau’s handiwork at Marc by Marc Jacobs that won us over. Backstage at the show, he created a medium-to-high ponytail, flipped it up and pinned it down with one chrome barrette before bringing the lengths back over the clip and pinning them again to create a voluminous silhouette. Complicated as it may sound, Palau demoed the process for us, and it was quick, easy, and plenty chic. Ditto the rose gold barrettes that Adam Reed and Paul Percival used backstage at House of Holland to hold a slicked-back top section above a low pony. The best part? All you need is $3.29 to get a hold of a three-pack of the multitasking accoutrements. If only Prada’s car-embellished leather skirts were as easy to come by.
All of last season’s starkly bare faces are officially brightening up—or so it seemed backstage at Marc by Marc Jacobs makeup artist Dick Page was conducting a class on what he called “Pretty 101.” Keeping his color palette of golds and pinks transparent, the Shiseido artistic director had one objective before models hit the runway: “Don’t send them out ugly.” Suffice it to say, mission accomplished. Building a custom-blended flushed cheek using Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Petal diffused with its Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold, Page slicked a dollop of its emollient Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment across eyes for lids that glistened. “I’m obsessed with animation on the face,” Page admitted, which is presumably why he insisted on doing every single blush application himself. Brows were Page’s other point of pride, as he filled in arches using gentle brush strokes of his new-for-Fall Shimmering Cream Eye Color in shades like Sable, a warm taupe and Caviar, a shimmering black. “I’m not crazy about powders or pencils,” Page said of those other brow enhancers. “I like my brows to have a little shine to them.”
Redken creative consultant Guido Palau looked no further than himself to find his inspiration for the show: “This is no word of a lie when I tell you that Marc wanted Guido in the nineties,” Palau said, alluding to his nascent days in the biz. “When I started doing shows, it was about recreating something that could be very easy with something that was more complicated,” which is exactly what Palau did for Jacobs, prepping hair with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow Dry Lotion and creating a newfangled ponytail. Gathering strands and wrapping them with an elastic, Palau folded the style upward, securing it with a long silver Goody barrette before flipping the lengths back over the base of the ponytail and securing them around the mid-section with another silver clasp. The tips that poked out above the neck were left slightly “spiky,” while the taught front section was treated to a slight sheen with Redken Glass 01 Smoothing Serum. “There’s a lot of shine around this season,” Palau pointed out—presumably referencing his own handiwork one more time.
Its revolutionary nail overlays are oft-imitated, but there’s only one Minx—the only brand Sephora trusted to help create its popular Chic Prints for nails; the only brand Sarah Burton commissions to design custom tips for Alexander McQueen; and the only brand Marc Jacobs has partnered with on a limited edition collection of nail covers inspired by his Fall Marc By Marc collection. The One Night Stand range features five different homages to fabrics from Jacobs’ show, including Jags Velvet, a tri-colored chevron; Jungle Silk, a burgundy-on-brown cheetah print; Panthera Jacquard, which showcases the jungle cat in tan on a black background; Rosy Print, Jacobs’ autumnal palette of Fall blooms; and Running Impalas, our personal favorite and the print that inspired our lust for the skirt in look 20, pictured above. All of the designs will be available from mid-September through October at Marc By Marc Jacobs stores worldwide (while supplies last) and will also be offered as a gift with purchase at Saks during Fashion’s Night Out—the best reason we’ve heard yet to trek uptown on September 8th.