8 posts tagged "marc jacobs beauty"
“This makeup is for the girl that’s always twenty minutes late to the party—it’s not perfect or precise,” explained Vincent Oquendo, the pro behind the look at Marc Jacobs’ Resort show. In other words, this girl is me: forever late and always thrown together. The expertly smudged eyes and effortless glow seen at today’s intimate presentations, however, are a bit beyond the ten-second concealer-mascara-lipstick uniform I typically plaster on while simultaneously ordering an Uber. But after chatting with Oquendo, I realized that getting this fete-ready face at last minute isn’t necessarily out of the range of possibility.
He began by prepping models’ complexions with Marc Jacobs Beauty Genius Gel Super-Charged Foundation, then gently contoured cheeks with O!Mega Bronze in Perfect Tan. Apples were topped off with a blend of Shameless Bold Blush in Naughty (a “soft, almost nothing” pink) and Obsessed (a “pinched and peachy” pink). “There were a lot of bows in the collection—I wanted to keep it young,” he said. “She has life; she dances; she gets flushed in the cheeks.”
Seeing as Oquendo’s muse was not exactly a put-together party girl but more “that rock-and-roll chick who drank a little too much the night before,” the liner was designed to look like it was leftover and haphazardly touched up—reminiscent of Kate Hudson’s character in Almost Famous, Penny Lane, he noted. To achieve this, he based lids with a taupe shadow and the lower lashes with a darker, matte brown. Next, the house’s Highliner Gel Eye Crayon in Blacquer was applied in reverse, starting from the outer corner and working in and around the inner water line on top and bottom. “I wanted it to be a rounder shape—if you go from the inside of the eye out, you’re more likely to get a point,” he said. For a broken-but-still-beautiful finish, Oquendo liberally applied the liner along the upper rim and let the color “bleed onto the lashes,” patting the pigment in lightly with his fingertip to gently “destroy” it. For even more definition, he coated lashes heavily with black mascara.
To complete the next-day aesthetic, the pro added a hint of “grease.” He used the same gel eye crayon formula in N(ice), a silvery hue, around the tear ducts, then mixed it with foundation a shade or two lighter than each model’s skin tone to create a highlighter for the bridge of the nose and cupid’s bow. Arches were filled in with the same neutral shadows used on the eyes and brushed up with a generous amount of Brow Tamer Grooming Gel to make them appear “wet.” Lovemarc Lip Gel in Understudy, a pinky nude, was dabbed onto lips to lend a subtle sheen.
Next time I’m invited to the “after-party for some incredible rock concert” (the scenario Oquendo had in mind) or just spur-of-the-moment summer cocktails, at least I’ll have my makeup already figured out.
Style.com’s resident nail polish guru (and photo editor), Nicola Kast, beats the Monday blues by hitting the bottle. Here, she shares the lacquer she’s loving this week.
After welcoming the warm weather with beer and BBQ, Kast fueled up for the workweek ahead with a peanut butter protein smoothie that mirrored her manicure. The neutral she’s relying on now: Marc Jacobs Beauty nail polish in Klute, one of the five colors the designer created for his Fall 2014 collection. “I wanted a foundation-like shade to show off the early traces of my tan,” she said. Another tip to take from Jacobs’ autumnal runway: Stock up on stretchy, flesh-colored headbands and slick back your strands during the dog days of summer.
Marc Jacobs Beauty Enamored Hi-Shine Lacquer in Klute, $18, marcjacobs.com
“I don’t put things into demographics or ages, I’m inspired by great women,” said Marc Jacobs at a soiree in Paris last night celebrating the European launch of his beauty line and its new face, 64-year-old Jessica Lange. “I love women with a strong voice and vision. I like people who are dynamic and creative. And again, women who indulge in fashion and beauty as part of their life, but it’s not their whole life.” Lange’s voice carried through the cloud-filled air at the designer’s Fall 2014 show, and yesterday evening the lyrics to “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” resounded through a room projected with a film starring the acclaimed actress shot by David Sims (which will appear in the window of Sephora on the Champs-Élysées come March 6). As I interviewed Jacobs and Lange’s lips and smoky eyes (the work of face painter Diane Kendal) panned across the walls, he explained: “It was important to set precedent just like we do with our fashion shows. What we’ll do with beauty is that we want to surprise, we don’t want to fall into a formula. We want to be able to respond to our inspirations at any given moment and go with it, and over time it will tell the story that beauty isn’t for this person or that person, it’s for anyone who wants it.”
It appears that a number of others are on the same page this week: NARS Cosmetics’ signed Charlotte Rampling; Angela Lindvall made an appearance at Balmain alongside modern-day supers like Karlie Kloss and Joan Smalls; and Rick Owens cast not only his employees but catwalk legends like Kirsten Owen, Ann Oost, and Hannelore Knuts. Perhaps the fashion world is becoming a little less enthralled by the barely legal (and often years away from legal), hot young things and like their women how they like their wine: aged to perfection.
Spring’s bombed-out beach and choppy, bowl-style wigs gave way to a more “tonal” look that was as hauntingly beautiful as the night sky and cumulus clouds that floated above the Marc Jacobs runway. Instead of evoking kids who cut their own hair, these faux strands (inspired by Jessica Lange, whose voice carried through the air, and Polly Allen Mellen) were precise, blunt, and graphic—a job that could only be tasked to a master such as Guido Palau. “It’s so perfect that it looks futuristic; there’s no era reference when you look at the girls,” he explained. The five hair colors developed by Victoria Hunter at Whittemore House Salon were “pulled back” and “off”—almost like an “old lady” would layer watercolor-like hues over gray—creating an odd, mink-y brown, blond, or silvery white tinged with pink or purple, Palau said. “It’s like an illustration come to life,” he added. “Everything matches.”
Mimicking the colors and textures of the fabrics in the collection, François Nars focused his efforts on the eyes. A light gray shadow was dusted over the lid and accented by “touches of chocolate” outlining the crease and, lightly, the lower lash line. Brows were bleached and then dyed the same shade as the wig. “You used to see that on Vogue covers in the sixties; hairdressers would match the brows to the hair color,” he noted. Nars Lip Gloss in Striptease, a nude laced with silver, was dabbed onto the lips with his fingertip to catch the light.
Manicurist Marian Newman extended the color palette all the way down to models’ fingers, painting nails with five custom-blended lacquers from the designer’s eponymous cosmetics collection that ranged from pale porcelain to purple-y mushroom (available for Fall 2014). The total package was, as Palau described, “a bit eerie and unsettling,” but completely calculated and immaculate—obviously the work of a man who strives for perfection.
After entering the world of prestige cosmetics with quite a bang (debuting with 122 SKUs), Marc Jacobs has given himself some sizable shoes to fill. So it’s no great surprise that the designer has pulled out all the stops for his spring lineup, debuting not one, but five new products—our favorite being the Marvelous Mousse Transformative Foundation. Jacobs’ buttery new complexion perfector melts dreamily into skin when applied with a brush or with fingertips, and leaves behind a satin finish that lingers for hours. Though the featherweight formula is billed as full coverage, we’d say it’s more likely to delight those who prefer a medium finish. Plus, it’s infused with skin-soothing Indian ginseng, redness-reducing amino acids, and hydrating coconut. It’s clear Jacobs isn’t one to suffer from a sophomore slump.