95 posts tagged "Marc Jacobs"
Flashback Friday is a feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Kim Renneberg
The Moment: Pastel Wigs and Graphic Headbands
The Motivation: There are a number of things about this shot that caught our eye: for starters, the lush lashes (a huge trend for Fall 2014) and a supermarché backdrop (à la Chanel’s jaw-dropping set). But perhaps the most striking similarity to this season’s catwalks are Renneberg’s pale strands and thick headband—a duo we saw at Marc Jacobs’ show in New York just a few short weeks ago. The only difference: Where the stretchy accessory contrasts the nearly white wig in this nineties editorial, the current way to wear it is more tone on tone.
“I don’t put things into demographics or ages, I’m inspired by great women,” said Marc Jacobs at a soiree in Paris last night celebrating the European launch of his beauty line and its new face, 64-year-old Jessica Lange. “I love women with a strong voice and vision. I like people who are dynamic and creative. And again, women who indulge in fashion and beauty as part of their life, but it’s not their whole life.” Lange’s voice carried through the cloud-filled air at the designer’s Fall 2014 show, and yesterday evening the lyrics to “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” resounded through a room projected with a film starring the acclaimed actress shot by David Sims (which will appear in the window of Sephora on the Champs-Élysées come March 6). As I interviewed Jacobs and Lange’s lips and smoky eyes (the work of face painter Diane Kendal) panned across the walls, he explained: “It was important to set precedent just like we do with our fashion shows. What we’ll do with beauty is that we want to surprise, we don’t want to fall into a formula. We want to be able to respond to our inspirations at any given moment and go with it, and over time it will tell the story that beauty isn’t for this person or that person, it’s for anyone who wants it.”
It appears that a number of others are on the same page this week: NARS Cosmetics’ signed Charlotte Rampling; Angela Lindvall made an appearance at Balmain alongside modern-day supers like Karlie Kloss and Joan Smalls; and Rick Owens cast not only his employees but catwalk legends like Kirsten Owen, Ann Oost, and Hannelore Knuts. Perhaps the fashion world is becoming a little less enthralled by the barely legal (and often years away from legal), hot young things and like their women how they like their wine: aged to perfection.
Some say short hair is limiting, but Lupita Nyong’o has proven the critics of the cropped cut wrong. She continues to mix it up despite having little length to work with; mirroring the plunging neckline of her Givenchy gown, she sported a striking middle part by hair pro Larry Sims to the NAACP Image Awards in Pasadena, California, this past weekend. Sims said he used her nose as a guideline and molded the shape using Smooth ‘N Shine Go Pro Gro With Larry Sims Créme Oil. As for her shimmery shadow (a combination of colors pulled from the Dior 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow palette in Earth Reflection), face painter Nick Barose said Studio 54 inspired him: “There’s a slight disco feel,” he noted. To complement her dress, he opted for a bright lipstick topped with a bronze gloss “to keep [the look] monochrome.” It appears the tonal trend has already shifted from the runway (Marc Jacobs Fall 2014 show) to the red carpet.
Spring’s bombed-out beach and choppy, bowl-style wigs gave way to a more “tonal” look that was as hauntingly beautiful as the night sky and cumulus clouds that floated above the Marc Jacobs runway. Instead of evoking kids who cut their own hair, these faux strands (inspired by Jessica Lange, whose voice carried through the air, and Polly Allen Mellen) were precise, blunt, and graphic—a job that could only be tasked to a master such as Guido Palau. “It’s so perfect that it looks futuristic; there’s no era reference when you look at the girls,” he explained. The five hair colors developed by Victoria Hunter at Whittemore House Salon were “pulled back” and “off”—almost like an “old lady” would layer watercolor-like hues over gray—creating an odd, mink-y brown, blond, or silvery white tinged with pink or purple, Palau said. “It’s like an illustration come to life,” he added. “Everything matches.”
Mimicking the colors and textures of the fabrics in the collection, François Nars focused his efforts on the eyes. A light gray shadow was dusted over the lid and accented by “touches of chocolate” outlining the crease and, lightly, the lower lash line. Brows were bleached and then dyed the same shade as the wig. “You used to see that on Vogue covers in the sixties; hairdressers would match the brows to the hair color,” he noted. Nars Lip Gloss in Striptease, a nude laced with silver, was dabbed onto the lips with his fingertip to catch the light.
Manicurist Marian Newman extended the color palette all the way down to models’ fingers, painting nails with five custom-blended lacquers from the designer’s eponymous cosmetics collection that ranged from pale porcelain to purple-y mushroom (available for Fall 2014). The total package was, as Palau described, “a bit eerie and unsettling,” but completely calculated and immaculate—obviously the work of a man who strives for perfection.
All you need is not love, apparently, but good pancake makeup and eyeliner. Riccie Johnson, a makeup artist for CBS News, recounts the time she applied makeup on The Beatles for The Ed Sullivan Show, where the legendary quartet performed their first U.S. concert 50 years ago. (In a heartwarming twist, Sir Paul McCartney remembered her 40 years later.) [CBS]
Some designers use elaborate backdrops or whimsical installations to showcase their clothing (Marc Jacobs’ swan song at Louis Vuitton, anyone?), while others simply let the garments speak for themselves. But this season, designers are using another element to enhance their vision on the runway: fragrance. “Having a scent element in the show definitely complements the experience,” designer Joseph Altuzarra told the New York Times.
High-end hairstylists—think Sally Hershberger, Julien Farel, and Ted Gibson—are charging almost $1,000 for a haircut and a blow-out. The reason for such pricey trims? A “well-honed artistic vision and eye for detail,” cites the Wall Street Journal.
Versace is launching a made-to-measure couture fragrance this month. With ingredients personally chosen by Donatella herself—tuberose, jasmine, and violet—each bottle of Gianni Versace Couture will come in a napa leather case dyed to match their key ingredient. [WWD]