4 posts tagged "Marco Zanini"
“Someone like Lee Miller” is who Lucia Pieroni was channeling backstage at Rochas, where it was all about that kind of “incredibly rich, well-kept woman that doesn’t even need to bother,” according to the makeup artist. The resulting beauty look was a slight departure from the hyper-feminized makeup that designer Marco Zanini typically orders up here, which reliably includes a standout lip. “We tried a lip,” Pieroni admitted, while using Clé de Peau Luminizing Face Enhancers in No. 11, a cool silver, and No. 12, a warm gold, to sculpt the skin, “but it made it too pretty, too lady—too retro,” she conceded. As an alternative, Pieroni deliberately eschewed mascara, eye liner, and blush in favor of a neutral-tinted lid that was stained with Clé de Peau’s Satin Eye Color in No. 208, a dark taupe-y brown, and a “forties brow,” courtesy of its eyebrow pencils. “The arch is much wider,” Pieroni explained of the decade’s specific brow shape, which registers slightly differently than the grooming techniques popular in the fifties or even eighties. “It makes them look a bit straight,” she elaborated.
Eugene Souleiman was less willing to pin the hair to a specific era when talking about what appeared, at first glance, to be a style reminiscent of forties-inspired waves. “It’d be Guy Bourdin-y in 1973 if it were done really well,” he maintained, careful to emphasize that he was not trying to produce yet another iteration of the big, soft, seventies-cum-forties ringlets we’ve seen so much of already this season. Instead, Souleiman maintained that he and Zanini wanted to pay tribute to Nicoletta Santoro, the Italian fashion editor and stylist who has played muse to Zanini before—and who happens to have “incredibly curly hair that she tries to tame but can’t,” according to the coiffeur. Creating an extra-deep side part, “almost like a comb-over,” Souleiman flat-ironed strands about a third of the way through the lengths before switching textures entirely. “It’s like a bob, with a bad perm,” he elaborated of the tightly wound loops that were wrapped around an iron through the ends and then “stretched out” to produce a looser wave with some deliberate frizz. “It’s not supposed to be particularly attractive,” he insisted, “because everything else is.”
The pre-fall shows are often a good indication of what’s to come when the Fall shows commence next month. After a jam-packed day of appointments and presentations yesterday, however, they also seem to signify that some Spring trends have serious staying power. We are specifically referring to the blue eye makeup movement that left a lasting impression on the fashion set back in September—and on Marco Zanini, it would appear. The Rochas creative director adopted a marine mandate at his pre-fall presentation, asking makeup artist Silvana Belli to compliment his luxe brocade fabrics, which were occasionally accessorized by knit beanies, with an opaque wash of creamy aqua pigment, like Maybelline’s Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Tenacious Teal. Belli dragged the bold, stamped-on color across model Maja Salamon’s lids from her upper lash line to her brow bone, stopping just short of mingling the makeup with her actual brows. A deliberate eschewal of mascara kept the focus squarely on the bolt of blue—and the clothes, of course. Will cobalt, midnight, indigo, and cerulean prevail through February and March, too? We’ll know in a few short weeks. Watch this space.
There are certain collections that lend themselves to strong beauty looks, and under Marco Zanini’s tenure, Rochas is definitely one of them. “There are these incredible rosebud-colored patterned florals towards the end [of the show]; you kind of want to wear them on your mouth,” Clé de Peau creative director of makeup Lucia Pieroni said at Zanini’s Spring outing, where lush fabrics were a huge part of the story. The other conversation piece? Pieroni’s flat-finish cerise mouths.
“I’m obsessed with lips at the moment,” the makeup artist joked, having already gifted us with one of the month’s best last week in Milan. Giving skin a pastel, luminescent finish courtesy of a few swipes of Clé de Peau’s Luminizing Face Enhancer in #11, Pieroni dusted lids with the gold color from its forthcoming Eye Color Quad in #209 Sapphire and brushed up brows, leaving lashes without mascara. Then came those pouts, painted with a blend of Clé de Peau Extra Rich Lipstick in R1, “a beetroot red,” according to Pieroni, and R2, “a pillbox red,” which she mixed together and topped with a bit of its Blush Color Duo in Pink for a mattified texture. “Matte to me seems quite modern,” she said, dragging a cotton swab around the edges of the mouth to ensure a soft-focus effect, “as though they’ve really been sucking on a lolly.”
It wasn’t the first look she and Zanini tried, but it was the one that stuck. “The music’s very California, and we went through the process of having the girls look sun-kissed, but they looked too much like a Dutch painting with those hoods,” Pieroni elaborated, motioning to the silk visors-turned-headscarves that Zanini commissioned from the French couture house Lemarié. “She’s a romantic dreamer who does not go out into the sun,” Zanini chimed in of the accessories, which left Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman very little to work with.
“A ponytail is a little boring, but logistically, it was the only thing we could do,” Souleiman said somewhat begrudgingly, leaving his mark on the look by giving models what he called “premium hair.” “It’s really, supernaturally straight, ” the coiffeur explained, stretching strands with a blow-dryer, coating them with Wella Professionals Shimmer Delight Shine Spray, running them through an iron, and gathering lengths into a low ponytail that he pulled out a bit from the top of the elastic to create a voluminous, pseudo bob beneath the bonnets. “It’s maximized,” he admitted of the end result, “but so subtle it’s not vulgar.”
Cate Blanchett does her best to keep her personal life private—which is to say, you don’t see her in the pages of Us Weekly all that much. But there’s one thing she’s quite public about: her love of SK-II skincare products. Make that two things: Aside from maintaining her porcelain complexion with standouts from the Japanese skincare giant, Blanchett is known for her acute style sense, often plucking gowns right off the Givenchy, Balenicaga, and Lanvin runways for red-carpet events. Just in time for the holidays, the Oscar winner has combined her two interests into one stylish skin perfector. The SK-II brand ambassador has enlisted Rochas designer Marco Zanini to help create a limited-edition bottle of the line’s coveted Facial Treatment Essence. The magic elixir, which is packed with the company’s patented Pitera—a fermented rice derivative that has amazing skin softening and smoothing properties—reduces pigmentation, boosts moisture, and increases the skin’s barrier function. That it now comes in a frosted glass flacon with a gold cap and a crystalline floral pattern etched into its surface is just another reason to start slathering it on.
$195, available at www.saksfifthavenue.com.