11 posts tagged "Marian Newman"
If the lace masks at Sarah Burton’s show for Alexander McQueen looked familiar, it’s because anyone who made it to the wildly successful exhibition celebrating the house’s late namesake designer at the Met this summer has seen something like them before. “The idea came from the masks we created for the McQueen exhibit,” confirmed Guido Palau, who dreamt up another series of similar headgear with Burton for Spring. “People expect a little fantasy from this show,” Palau pointed out, which he delivered by weaving tight, half-inch-thick rings of braids all around models’ heads. “It’s like a wig wrap, but I wanted it to look more embellished,” he explained—which happened to be the complete opposite of Peter Philips’ M.O. “It’s almost like a sculpture,” the famed face painter said of the full-body muting technique he employed, applying a continuous wash of Chanel Pro Lumiere foundation on faces, limbs—anywhere skin was showing. “It’s all the same color; we wanted to make sure everything was covered,” he said, taking the season’s monochrome makeup trend to the next level. While Philips finger-pressed foundation into lips as well, there was one area of the face that he enhanced: the brows. “We tried bleaching them, but it looked too alien,” he said, opting instead to flatten arches, coating them in the same latex-based glue he used only a few hours earlier at Chanel. “It puts some life back inside those masks.”
The real embellishment was left to Minx co-founders Dawn Lynch-Goodwin and Janice Jordan. Back in London, manicurist Marian Newman told us that Burton had given the women four words to use for inspiration when conceiving a series of different nail overlays for her to choose from for the show; today came the big reveal. “Water, mother-of-pearl, shell, and sea foam,” she said, applying the six winning designs to models’ tips. Using three different bases of pink, beige, and ivory, Jordan and Lynch-Goodwin layered different combinations of Minx in holographic gold and silver on top to create “organic, random” layered patterns. “It took over 1,000 man hours,” Jordan proclaimed. If the crowd at Centquatre wanted fantasy, they no doubt left satisfied.
Come Spring or Fall, you can always expect to see a true sense of über-luxury backstage at Loewe, and this season was no exception. With makeup artist Pat McGrath’s smoky brown lids and chocolaty berry mouths paired with hairstylist Guido Palau’s soft, middle-parted, slightly curled locks that had been prepped with Redken Nature’s Rescue Radiant Salt Spray for texture, the fact that these girls were meant to appear polished was clear. “It’s very expensive,” nail guru Marian Newman deduced of the look—right down to the fingertips, which were quite vampy. “It wasn’t the lacquers themselves but the color that was important to [Stuart Vevers],” Newman said of the “dark rich raspberry” shade that came courtesy of OPI We’ll Always Have Paris and Chanel Rouge Noir. But what really lent that extra bit of lavishness to the nails was Lumos Topcoat, a cult-favorite high-shine clear varnish that Newman swears by. She’s not alone, either. The top results in a quick Google search included numerous rhetorical questions of “Lumos: the best topcoat in the world?” Considering that we fancy ourselves relative exerts when it comes to nails, we were shocked that yesterday was the first we were hearing of the wonder product. But no matter; we’ll be remedying that situation by purchasing a few bottles immediately upon our arrival in Les Etats Unis.
We told you they were coming, and here—fresh off the catwalk in Milan—are a few of the custom nail overlays Minx designed for Missoni yesterday. “The base of all nails was Minxlusion and many of the Missoni patterns have a Minxlusion-esque thread running through them, so it matched the theme perfectly,” Minx co-creator Dawn Lynch-Goodwin explained of the 20 different patterns she dreamt up in a blue, yellow, and red palette. Nail guru Marian Newman presented the designs to Angela Missoni and Margherita Missoni the day before the show and after a reported love fest, the women made their selections so that the nails “interpreted” the fabrics used in the show, rather than replicated them. To help save time backstage as 18 of the 37 models were running late from a previous show, Newman and her team actually applied some of the appliqués onto nails as the girls stood in line to hit the runway! Anything in the name of perfectly pro tips. Which is your favorite?
After making a huge splash in New York during Fashion’s Night Out with the introduction of its highly successful collaboration with Marc by Marc Jacobs, Minx—like the rest of the fashion pack—has moved its creative team to Europe for a select list of shows. We had the pleasure of catching up with founders Janice Jordan and Dawn Lynch-Goodwin and their go-to manicurist, Marian Newman, backstage at David Koma this week, where they were busy Minxing (it’s an adjective now; get into it) models with a selection of 20 different pastel nail overlays topped with a clear tip that had been emblazoned with a white, dévoré tribal pattern. “That’s the unifying part,” Newman said of the acrylic crystalline print. It won’t be their last experimentation with exotic prints for Spring, either. “We’re doing Missoni for the first time this season—it’s a whole new design direction for them,” Newman said, alluding to the fact that Jordan and Lynch-Goodwin have been hard at work on a series of Minx that pays homage to the Italian house’s rich history with prints for its presentation on Sunday. “It’ll be their interpretation of those prints, of course,” Newman continued of the process that goes into creating a series of nail designs for each show once inspiration ideas come in from designers. “For McQueen, they gave me four words for references, and Dawn and Janice are reinterpreting those words with nails. We’re really excited about that show.” Us too.
Seeing as how Alex Box has already proved that her face-painting skills will not be confined to two dimensions, the makeup artist’s avant-garde experiment backstage at Gareth Pugh seemed perfectly par for the course. “Religious iconography” is how Box described the inspiration for the gold and blue laser-cut eye patches that she made for the occasion using a “bespoke retro-reflective fabric that turns pure white when hit with a bright light”—like, say, a barrage of flashbulbs. With statement-making lids playing such a large part in the overall look, Box’s handiwork called for little else save for MAC Clear Brow Set to groom arches and its clear Lip Glass, which she applied to the tops of cheeks for a shiny highlight.
What it did mandate, however, were killer nails, courtesy of Minx. Working off of a waxy blue fabric supplied by Pugh’s stylist, Katie Shillingford, Minx co-founders Janice Jordan and Dawn Lynch-Goodwin collaborated with U.K.-based nail artist Marian Newman on a custom design for the show. Adhesive overlays featuring a blue canvas with gold foil framing around the base and on either side of the nail added that extra bit of inventive artiness that has become synonymous with Pugh’s presentations, finished off with similar gilding placed underneath fingertips. So far, the Paris shows have put the brakes on the manicure mania that has swept New York and London for the past two seasons. Here’s hoping this gets things rolling.