21 posts tagged "Marni"
Following two seasons of platinum blonde loyalty and a Fall outing that made shades of deep brunette the runway hair hue du jour, the Spring 2013 shows are at a little bit of a color impasse. Castings have been relatively equal opportunity, with a lot of designers—Alexander Wang and Roberto Cavalli to name a few—requesting deliberately dark and light-haired models for the corresponding black and white sections of their presentations; Marc Jacobs, who ushered in the graphic trend with his Edie Sedgwick sixties salute, went as far as to have Laurie Foley take models black or white-gold, accordingly. Which is why it’s been hard to miss Irina Kravchenko. The Ukrainian newcomer who, despite opening Wang’s show, had a slow start in New York is killing it in Europe—not least because she remains one of the only redheads in this season’s catwalking crew. After staring at her from afar at Prada, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Marni, and Roberto Cavalli this week, we finally managed to get the scoop on those gorgeous ginger-auburn locks—despite some initial trouble understanding one another (beauty is an international language, don’t you know). “It’s blonde naturally,” Kravchenko revealed after we maniacally pointed and gestured to her hair (then ours). The word “salon” helped solicit the revelation that she has no need for one, as she does her dyeing herself with—get this—”chenna.” Henna? “Chenna—from grass,” Kravchenko reiterated. That’s right; those rich, show-stopping strands are the result of an at-home application of the plant that has long been used to dye fabrics, skin, nails—and hair. The style set’s superstar colorists are no doubt chomping at the bit to get their hands on this one.
Consuelo Castiglioni is known by the Marni faithful for a certain way with prints. And there was plenty of that in her Spring collection today, although patterns were well paced with plenty of solids as well. “I wouldn’t call it minimal,” the desiger’s longtime face painter Tom Pecheux surmised of the wealth of white, black and color-blocking at play; “I’d call it essential”—which prompted him to take the makeup in a similar direction. “We decided [it] should be very pure,” he said.
“Pure,” in this case, did not mean bare as it has at so many other shows this season. Instead, Pecheux started each girl off with one of his signature massages—a deep-tissue rubdown with Estée Lauder Daywear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Cream and its Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator—followed by a finger-blending of MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation, which provided a “healthy, glow-y” base. “We are using our fingers to melt everything” he elaborated of the “fresh” color that was applied to cheeks using a combination of MAC Cremeblush in Posey and its red-tinged Mineralize Rich Lipstick in Lushlife. A slightly darker incarnation of the transparent rouge hue appeared on eyes as well as Pecheux smudged MAC’s Mineralize Rich Lipstick in Glamour Era, a plummy black, across lids, mixing it with its Cream Colour Base in Root, a dark brown, which he buffed into the lash line. Just the tips of lashes were treated with mascara to “tint” them before Pecheux set to creating filled-in, “creamy” brows and mouths that were stained with a layering effort of both aforementioned lipsticks.
Castiglioni gave Paul Hanlon carte blanche with the hair. “She wanted me to do my own thing,” the styling star revealed—which usually means some incarnation of a deconstructed coif with a worn-in texture and a downtown feel. This time around, it was way simpler than that. “A lot of girls that work with Consuelo wear their hair like this,” Hanlon said of the sweeping, “organic” ponytail-knot hybrids that were prepped with TIGI Bed Head Superstar Queen for A Day Thickening Spray and treated individually, rather than uniformly. To let girl’s personality shine through, nary an extension could be found at Hanlon’s station as he simply groomed Janice Alida’s newly shorn fade and effortlessly brushed Athena Wilson’s bowl cut to one side.
Bangs are back for Fall, and Paul Hanlon’s onboard with their latest resurrection. “It’s very, very Sassoon,” he said, describing the custom-cut, heavy faux fringe that he beveled around the front edges this morning at Marni, to impart a 1960s look. “The clothes are all really graphic and bold, so it’s really a nice change of pace to do something like this,” the stylist divulged of the “retro-ness” of the hairpieces, pointing out that the specific shape he had snipped into the series of clip-on accessories is particularly flattering to womens’ faces. Using Frederic Fekkai Glossing Cream to give strands a certain softly textured languidness, Hanlon slicked back a front section to have something to slip the bangs into. “It’s a little geeky, in a way, which I kind of like,” he said of the end result.
Tom Pecheux was going for less geek and more ghoul. “She’s a very spooky girl,” he said of the Marni woman for Fall, whom he described as equal parts Tim Burton and The Addams Family. Ghostly as she may be, Consuelo Castiglioni’s girl is nothing if not quirky and posh. “It’s 15 years that I’ve been doing this show, and this is my favorite collection,” Pecheux admitted of the “super-modern, wearable clothes,” that “stink rich,” as he put it. Using a single pot of MAC’s forthcoming Pro Longwear Eyeshadow in Mauveness, the makeup artist sculpted cheeks and eyes with the purplish-brown pigment so that they had a hollowed-out effect. The one break in the monochrome color scheme came via a white pencil that lined the inner rim of the lower lash line and was diffused through the inner corners of the eyes “like a tear,” according to Pecheux. Why were the models crying? We can only imagine it had something to do with all of those oversize fur collars being so heartbreakingly divine.
It all started last month in Hollywood. Jessica Biel was spotted with freshly cut forehead fringe, thus beginning an impressive run for the brow-grazing style that flits in and out of fashion. Reese Witherspoon made a break for bangs shortly after, followed promptly by Rachel McAdams and Liv Tyler. All signs seemed to point to the fact that the look was about to make its latest comeback, a heralded return that has been solidified on the Fall runways. “Fringes are fun,” hairstylist Paul Hanlon said backstage at Marni this morning (more on that in a bit), where he was custom-cutting heavy, Penelope Tree-inspired hair pieces for Consuelo Castiglioni’s collection after experimenting with a looser, whispy incarnation at Iceberg earlier this weekend. “It gives you a little character,” he said of the face-framing accessory—or turns you into one, as Guido Palau proved with the four models he dyed black and gave “stand-out” 1920s-era flapper bobs replete with Rooney Mara-like bangs that barely passed the hairline at Calvin Klein. What does it all mean? If you have the bone structure to carry it, there’s no better time than the present to make the cut. And if you don’t, well, there’s always the less permanent option of trial and error with clip-ons. “They’re great,” Palau says of the fake fringes he keeps in his kit for those moments that require them, like, say, backstage at Versace. Heed his advice, though: “Give them a natural texture,” rather than an über-smooth blow-out, so they blend with the rest of your hair.
Even though the tides of fashion week haven’t fully crested yet, it’s looking like certain beauty trends will rise to the top. Flawless, natural, dewy skin is among the standouts, which one might argue never really goes out of style, but is definitely in greater demand at the moment along with all manner of nude and buff-toned makeup. It’s fitting, then, that a slew of new foundations has just hit counters to help impart that radiant complexion seen backstage. Here, we rounded up the most promising debuts backed by science, paired with customized brushes, and available in a veritable rainbow of flesh-toned shades.
What: Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus All-Smooth Makeup SPF 15
Best For: Correcting uneven spots
Seen At: Spiked with peptides to plump fine lines and ultrasomes to repair UV damage, this youth-preserving foundation was road-tested backstage at Karen Walker, where Clinique global color artist Jenna Menard employed its multi-action benefits, which marry the skin-smoothing abilities of the brand’s hit antiaging serum of the same name (Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector) with buildable coverage.
What: MAC Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation
Best For: Airbrushing away fine lines
Seen At: This fluid’s moisturizing demi-matte finish is pretty amazing, as makeup artist Tom Pecheux illustrated when he turned to its line-reducing, soft-focus powders to help blur the appearance of dark shadows and wrinkles backstage at Marni . Available in a full spectrum of 14 light to deep-dark shades, the foundation glides on especially well when applied with the brand’s two new brushes—the 193 Angled Foundation Brush and the 190 Foundation Brush for allover coverage.