35 posts tagged "Milan Fashion Week"
Lengths tucked into high collars, tonal hair and makeup, cornrows, and waist-grazing ponies—check, check, check, and check. The trends that dominated the runways in New York, London, Milan, and Paris made an appearance in Japan, proof that it really is a small world (at least when it comes to beauty). At Matohu and Beautiful People, turtlenecks and scarves served as the means to hide models’ long hair, much like they did at Prabal Gurung, Burberry Prorsum, and Anthony Vaccarello. The extreme tails spotted at Valentino and Chanel sashayed down the catwalks at Ujoy and Atsushi Nakashima. And from the front, the tops of models’ heads at Nakashima’s show were coated with gray paint (similar to the black powder Guido Palau employed at Alexander Wang) and lids dusted with a slate-colored shadow—both meant to coordinate with the clothes and produce a matchy-matchy effect (previously seen at Marc Jacobs). Even those Snoop Dogg-inspired braids devised by Duffy at Adam Selman made their way around the globe, arriving on the runway at Lamarck. One thing that did make an appearance in the buzzy city that didn’t get much attention in the other fashion capitals? Lips. If you dismiss Rihanna’s many wardrobe and lipstick changes, there was a lack of loud mouths for Fall 2014. Not the case today at KBF (below). This traffic-cone-colored pout is one beauty move we’ll be borrowing from the East.
“Once upon a time in Sicily…” read the invite to Dolce & Gabbana, and the clothes, many of which were accented with woodland creature-inspired appliqués, followed the fairy tale theme. A skeleton key motif was also threaded throughout several pieces in the collection, almost as if to say the doors to the designer’s secret winter garden had been unlocked. Backstage—a clandestine world all its own—the heroes of hair and makeup, Guido Palau and Pat McGrath, were hard at work crafting an “enchanted” look to match the storybook-worthy set. Gather round as the dynamic duo tell their captivating beauty tale:
“The look is usually more graphic,” explained makeup artist Linda Cantello, but for today’s show she described the finished product as “Armani, but faded.” To complement the charcoal and black collection (fittingly dubbed “fade to grey”) peppered with varying shades of green, Cantello washed a custom-blended, slate cream shadow with hints of purple over lids (a liner in a similar tone will be available come August). The top lashes were coated with mascara, and arches were emphasized with Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Eye&Brow Maestro (a multipurpose formula developed in conjunction with hairstylists, hitting shelves in September) in a shade “stronger” than each girl’s natural hair color. The skin was made paler with a pure-white Maestro foundation (the first formula to feature a matte pearl pigment, launching with the holiday collection), which goes on sheer and lends a porcelain finish to the skin. Although she tried a nude (“too washed out”) and a red (“too clashy with the lime green [in the clothes]“), the face painter wound up applying Rouge Ecstasy Lipstick in 602 (a berry hue). “The lip is meant to look like it’s been put on and taken off,” she explained.
Strands were equally as soft and feminine. A triple-barrel curling iron was clamped down in sections by Roberta Bellazzi to form mermaid-like waves. The only element that contrasted the gentle hair and makeup was a graphic side or center parting, which rendered each model an individual.
Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni described the woman at Missoni as “a cool girl who’s been out all night, she’s got her boyfriend’s coat on, and is waiting for the bus around six in the morning.” In the case of today’s show, that coat would involve chevron stripes and vibrant tangerine trim.
The focus was primarily on the eyes—particularly the lashes, where “tons and tons and tons of mascara” was used from the iris to the outer corners on top and bottom to create a spidery, “haywire” effect. For an even more imperfect finish, lashes were pinched together to make them “a bit crooked.” (Some models with sparser fringe received a set of falsies for thickness, just on the outer half of the eyes.) To intensify the clumpy effect, MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack was applied from the middle outward on the upper and lower lash lines in a soft square shape, then blended with a matte, ebony-colored shadow.
“It feels like she’s done her hair herself, but not in front of a mirror,” Eugene Souleiman said of the “imbalanced” topknots. (The Missoni girl likely crafted this while she was waiting for the bus to pull up.) The style was simple enough to create: Loosely secure a ponytail with elastic to create “bagginess,” then pin in place. Since multiple models were dashing from Dolce & Gabbana via car and moped (no time to wait for public transportation), “necessity became the mother of invention,” Souleiman explained. “I love it because it’s a five-minute hairdo.”
“It’s always about the beauty of the eyeliner—everything begins there,” explained Pat McGrath of the soft black flicks she created today. The designer’s favorite Italian film icons, Sophia Loren and Monica Bellucci, once again served as inspiration, but in lieu of the heated Mediterranean woman, a more enchanted spirit was embraced. As The Nutcracker Suite played and snow softly cascaded down over the barren almond blossom trees (seen in full bloom this past Spring) at one end of the runway, a softer, more “fairy tale and woodland” look emerged onto the catwalk.
To bring models’ features forward and achieve that “lit-from-within” glow, McGrath used two tones of Dolce & Gabbana’s Perfect Liquid Luminous Foundation—one to match the complexion, and a paler hue on the high planes of the face. Cheeks were lightly dusted with Blush in Nude. Being the main focus, eyes were rimmed with Crayon Intense in Black, then layered with Glam Liner, a liquid formula, to intensify the winged shape. The lower lashes were given the same treatment, but the majority of the pigment was wiped away with a cotton bud, leaving only a trace of color for definition. A new launch from the brand, Perfect Mono Cream Eye Colour (on shelves this Fall), was washed across the lids—Cocoa in the socket and Innocence, a pearly white, in the center and on the brow bone. (Innocence was also mixed with Gold Dust and tapped onto the cheekbones to highlight). After using a nude pencil on the water line, two tubes of mascara were pulled out to polish everything off—Intenseyes Mascara in Black Intense on top and Passioneyes in Terra, a brown shade, on the bottom—to sweep lashes up and out. Using just her fingertips, McGrath pressed Classic Cream Lipstick in Honey onto models’ mouths before dabbing a clear gloss in the center. “Stefano and Domenico spoke about the fact that they don’t want the gloss on the top of the lips because it can look really old-fashioned,” she noted.
The hair was put up in “a classic Dolce manner,” explained Guido Palau—meaning a “sensitive” style swept off the neck and face, but not “snatched back and hard.” This season, strands were prepped with Redken Body Full, a thickening spray, to create “guts and a little bit of friction,” then misted generously with Pillow Proof Two Day Extender, a dry shampoo, for texture. The length was loosely braided and coiled into a low chignon; tendrils and “floaty bits” were pulled out to frame the face. “I think they’ve really defined their woman, the boys, and it’s something that’s very successful for them,” noted Palau. The one thing they did change up this season: The elaborate hair accessories were swapped out for chain mail-like hats encrusted with crystals or sequins. After all, what fairy tale would be complete without a knight in shining armor?