12 posts tagged "Missoni"
Talking Turbans
Hair accessories of almost every ilk imaginable graced the Spring runways, as scarves, hats, pearl baubles, headbands, barrettes, bows, and even scrunchies made their way into show notes from Marc by Marc Jacobs and Ashish to Pucci, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga. The one headdress that seems to have been forgotten last season? The turban. But not to worry; the chic wrap that was born in ancient societies (and then immortalized by Kate Moss at the Met gala in 2009) is having a moment now. Daria Werbowy watchers will recall when the supe’s latest round of Céline ads came out earlier this month featuring the Canadian-born beauty in a knotted headband-turban hybrid, and today, on the Copenhagen catwalk at Jesper Hovring, a white satin iteration crept up that was offset by a deep wine-stained mouth. Wear them with an updo, or with a sleek blow-out, à la Missoni Resort, and add them to your accessories arsenal stat.
Let’s Hear It For Lucia
Lucia Pieroni is hands-down one of our favorite backstage beauty stars. Whether she’s sculpting contours and adding a signature slick of brown eye grease or upping the ante with a gorgeous, stamped-on lip, as was her habit for Spring 2013, there’s a certain level of classic artistry that goes into the Clé de Peau creative director of makeup’s work—which is to say, Pieroni doesn’t deal in the unflattering. Case in point: Even bleached brows couldn’t keep her red, matte mouths and luminous highlighting effort at Rick Owens’ Spring 2012 presentation from landing on the right end of hauntingly beautiful; we were actually so floored by the mulberry pout she dreamed up at Missoni for Fall 2011 that we made the lip pencil/lipstick cocktail our own personal go-to. Pieroni has that ability to make fashion fantasy a realistic, attainable one, which shouldn’t come as too big of a surprise considering she’s a pretty down-to-earth chick. The trained aromatherapist and yoga enthusiast with the wild curls dabbles in homespun beauty remedies, and isn’t afraid to bring homeopathic ones into the trenches. “It’s quite spiritual—in a positive way,” she said in Paris of the mood-lifting powers of a small bottle of calming mist that served as one of the many secret weapons she carried around in her kit this season. You’ve gotta love that. Click here to learn more about the British-born face-painting expert’s beautiful life.
The Four-Part “Cosmic Couture” Lip Debuts At Missoni
“They are all hating me right now,” Lucia Pieroni joked of the models backstage at Missoni, where she had doled out “dry mouths and sticky eyelids” for the house’s Spring show. That, of course, was an incredibly simplistic description of the makeup artistry that was afoot here, which was attributed to “cosmic couture Japanese manga girls” and just so happened to feature one of the best lips we’ve seen all season.
“It’s a strong, fluoro pink,” Pieroni said of the four-part mouth that included a blend of MAC Lipmix in Magenta, Orange, and White, which the face painter topped with its loose Pigment in Red Electric. “When you mix it, it kind of gets orange, like tequila sunrise,” she explained. The color amounted to a retina-burning melon, which popped against glowing skin that had been lightly contoured through cheeks with MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural face powder in Medium Deep and highlighted with a layering of its luminizing Cream Colour Base in Luna and Pearl. “I wanted there to be something cartoony about it,” Pieroni continued, grooming brows and emphasizing a matte finish on mouths that had been brushed rather than lined. “It starts in the middle and sort of bleeds out,” she stressed of pouts’ “felt tip” quality.
Working off a collection that was very much for “a modern-day girl,” according to Eugene Souleiman, the Wella global artistic director brought the past and the present into the fold with a dichotomous ‘do. “It’s modern-day hippie and slightly space age,” he said of center-parted strands that he “squashed” with Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray. “Normally, when you create a flat hairstyle, you use a gel,” Souleiman explained, pointing out that he was purposely using “the wrong product to get the right result.” The saline spray helped give the coiffeur the “sculptural” look he was that boasted a slight masculinity after he slicked down front sections to resemble long sideburns. “It’s very graphic,” he surmised of the hair—which, as far as he’s concerned, is a textile not unlike clothing. “It’s a fabric you can play with.”
Lips And Tips, A Love Affair
Nude nails made a comeback at the Fall shows and continued to dominate more outlandish, allout nail art experiments for Spring—with a few notable exceptions, that is. Missoni and McQueen got minxed and Sophy Robson etched individual hieroglyphics onto tips backstage at Topshop Unique, while Jin Soon christened the “slim silhouette” backstage at Prabal Gurung. But as the battle between neutral and next-level manicures raged on, we noticed another trend rearing its pretty polished head: matching lips and tips. Before Mary Quant started picking nail lacquers according to clothes rather than lipsticks in the 1960s (the British designer revolutionized more than just hem lines), it was all about corresponding pout and polish colors. Both Jason Wu and Donna Karan reprised the tradition with classic crimsons and deep burgundies at their shows in September—and makeup artist Maud Laceppe and manicurist Michina Koide have modernized it in the new issue of Numéro with an electric blue mouth and fingers lacquered in the same powdery shade. We’ve personally moved on from the-crazier-the-better varnishing acts, but we’re always plenty happy to give credit to creativity where credit is due. Would you do blue?
Spain On The Brain, Backstage At Missoni
Angela Missoni may have been inspired by her daughters’ late night antics on the island of Sardinia for Spring, but her hair and makeup team looked a bit further west for their seasonal muse. “It’s sweaty, sexy flamenco skin with a focus on brows,” facepainter Lucia Pieroni said, creating a dewy base with MAC Face + Body Foundation and adding swipes of glistening highlights with her favorite new product, MAC Metal-X Cream Shadow in Fusion Gold, which she blended over cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose and onto the chin to mimic “hot, sweaty” skin. To create a touch of contour, Pieroni swiped its Paintpot in Groundwork, a medium taupe-y brown, underneath cheekbones and across lids for a warm smolder. Brows were built up using MAC Eyeshadow in Coquette and Copperplate and lips were given a finger-pressing of MAC Lipsticks in Freckletone and Fresh Brew for a worn-in, neutral effect. As a finishing touch, Pieroni spritzed each model with MAC Fix+ water mist before they head out onto the runway to hammer home the sense of a faux glow.
Wella global creative director added a similarly youthful, deconstructed element to “inject a rawness that would capture the passion and sensuality of a beautiful young Missoni woman at the end of a hot summer night.” Applying Wella Professionals Velvet Amplifier on wet strands, Souleiman hit hair with heat to create volume before “squashing” its Rugged Fix Matte Molding Crème into the roots for a matte texture. Then, after carving out deep side parts, Souleiman gathered the lengths into a ponytail that he only pulled through half way, pinning it against itself to create a loop that he spritzed with Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray for a rough finish. “It’s a traditional, slick Spanish look that’s deconstructed and disheveled,” Souleiman said, sliding decorative, snake shaped combs into his haphazard chignons.