12 posts tagged "Miuccia Prada"
Prada’s latest eau out next month, Candy Florale, revolves around an imaginary flower—its heart described as “a tender bouquet of cosmos.” And for the always-inventive Miuccia Prada, one would expect perfumer Daniela Andrier to go to the moon and back, bringing with her a bloom not of this earth as a souvenir. With a flair for the theatrics (illustrated by the house’s most recent menswear and ready-to-wear shows, separated into two acts) the brand called upon Steven Meisel and Léa Seydoux to bring the scent to life. The French darling plays the role of Candy, a bombshell with bangs who understands the power of seduction, and as exhibited by the brand’s last campaign for Candy L’Eau shot by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola, uses it to her full advantage—enchanting not one, but two men. In the latest ad, however, Seydoux appears sans suitors (or clothing, for that matter), floating among graphic, black-and-white flora. In response to working with Meisel, the actress said: “It was the first time that I’d worked on a film with someone who is essentially a photographer—it was a really interesting experience because Steven Meisel has such a precise vision of what he considers to be the perfect image.” Meisel’s in-the-buff interpretation calls to mind another fragrance and blond seductress: Marilyn Monroe famously stated that she wore nothing but Chanel No. 5 to bed, and we imagine Seydoux (donning Candy Florale, of course) does the same.
The same “clogged” lashes and tight chignons seen at Prada’s menswear show (featuring both sexes) made an appearance yet again in “Act 2″ for Fall 2014. This time around, however, additional characters were added to the Luchino Visconti- and Pina Bausch-inspired mix via red lipstick and blue shadow. A handful of the cast received a stained cherry lip in addition to their clumpy fringe, while others had both a crimson pout and a “worn-off teal-blue” shade washed across their lids. “In a way, that red lip, black mascara, blue eyeshadow is the beginning of makeup, isn’t it?” makeup guru Pat McGrath asked editors rhetorically backstage. “There’s something quite powerful about that on a face that’s so full of character and womanly,” she added. As for having models apply their own lipstick to capture the “imperfection” and “realness” Miuccia Prada was after, that idea made McGrath understandably a bit nervous. Before being handed a tube, one of the models whispered to another, “I will be so bad at this—I’ve never worn red lipstick.” And when you have to apply it for the first time in front of a face painter who was recently recognized by the Queen of England for her superior skills, well, that would make even an old pro a tad intimidated. With some coaching from the sidelines—”Take your time, darling, don’t make it bad,” McGrath pointed out to one of the girls as she quickly slicked the bullet over her lips—the results were surprisingly impeccable. “I might get in trouble because they’re too perfect,” the master of maquillage quipped.
“She loved the idea of ballerinas,” Guido Palau said of his conversation with the designer. “When a dancer goes out after a performance, she shoves on her coat, does her lip, and her hair is just pulled back, or she doesn’t change her hair after the performance, she just leaves it—there’s an elegance to it.” Before crafting “severe but basic” knots, Palau raked Redken Move Ability 05 paste through strands before tying them off into a pony, coiling the tail and pinning it in place near the nape to show off the neck. “There’s a feeling of hands [in the hair], an imperfection to its perfection,” he explained. The finished package was a beauty look we didn’t mind making a second curtain call.
It was all about rebellion this season at Prada—whether that concept was translated through application, texture, or color. “The look is simple, but there’s a darker thought to it,” said hairstylist Guido Palau. “These girls aren’t sweet and innocent, there’s a ganglike mentality to them.”
All thirty-nine models were separated into packs according hair color—a task taken on by British dye master Josh Wood, flown in less than forty-eight hours before the big event. “We’ve taken away what you’d normally add to color, like highlights and depth, as the idea is to create an illustration of a girl—[similar to] how you would draw or paint hair,” said Palau. To execute Mrs. Prada’s vision, Wood “antiqued” brown, black, blond, and red hues to lend a “singularity” to the varying tones. And while the end result was “flat,” it wasn’t lifeless. “This is [an example of] quietness in color at its highest volume,” said Wood, who went on to explain that the catwalk concept translates to the real world in the form of simpler dye jobs that are just as contemporary as their more complicated counterparts. Styling was far less of a process: Palau spritzed damp strands with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam, made a severe side part, and swept the front section low over the forehead—letting the length air-dry or using a blow-dryer and just his fingers to add movement.
Face painter Pat McGrath played up the “women in revolt” theme by leaving the skin raw (save for spot coverage with concealer), dabbing moisturizer on cheeks and clear balm onto lips. The eyes are where the real action was: She used the Temptu Airbrush Makeup System to “graffiti lids with anti-eye-shadow colors” such as muted blue, green, purple, orange, and yellow. “It’s a new medium for me,” McGrath said of the high-tech spray gun. “I’m creating imperfect makeup using a perfecting tool.” Brows were bleached to allow the scrawl across the crease to take center stage.
When it came to hair—whether it was above the eyes or on the head—the girls weren’t left with much choice. “No color, no show,” Wood said of the parameters surrounding the casting. But what model would let a little thing like a major shade change stand in her way of walking Miuccia’s runway?
Amanda Murphy’s career is going at full throttle thanks to influential supporters Miuccia Prada and Steven Meisel. News broke yesterday that the 26-year-old model—who had a stellar Fall ’13 season—landed her second consecutive Vogue Italia cover lensed by Meisel (he also shot her for Prada’s Fall ’13 campaign, which was no surprise after she bookended the label’s show back in February). Last month, the fresh-faced Chicago native shared the spotlight with veterans including Gisele Bündchen, Natalia Vodianova, Linda Evangelista, Stella Tennant, and Raquel Zimmermann, but this time around, Murphy fronted the glossy solo. For the new issue, the up-and-coming model pulled off slicked-back strands tucked behind her ears, styled by Guido Palau, as well as edgy makeup by Pat McGrath that resembled geometric patches of grease smeared over her eyes like war paint. Murphy has also appeared in recent editorials for Paris Vogue, Interview, and W. All of which is to say that things aren’t about to slow down for her anytime soon.
Photos: Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia
A few years in the making, and a string of prospective release dates later, Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby is finally hitting theaters this month—and the fashion community couldn’t be happier. In addition to Luhrmann’s singular directing style and a star-studded cast that includes Carey Mulligan and Leonardo DiCaprio, the film also features the costume-design savvy of Oscar winner Catherine Martin in collaboration with one Miuccia Prada, who designed forty dresses for a slew of twenties-era extras as well as some of the frocks worn by Mulligan’s Daisy Buchanan. To properly fete the partnership, the two women hosted a cocktail party last night attended by a handful of the film’s stars, as well as style-set regulars, like Shala Monroque. The Garage magazine creative director complemented her staggeringly flawless complexion with a gorgeous, glossy red lip and a hair accessory that resembled one of the coveted demilunes from Nicholas Ghesquière’s final Balenciaga collection —a thoughtful move, considering the wealth of flapper-inspired headpieces featured in the movie. Thoughts on the gilded accessory?