10 posts tagged "Moschino"
It all started at the Couture shows in January. Peter Philips scrawled a deliberately short, thick, almost awkward line across models’ top lash lines at Chanel to “take the makeup look away from retro,” and a new era of unexpected liner applications had officially begun. Since then, the concept has been all over the Fall shows. At Marc Jacobs’ dominatrix extravaganza in New York, François Nars called his similar flicks “droopy,” comparing the downward sloping line he drew onto upper lash lines with his new for fall Larger Than Life Longwear Eyeliner in Via Venetto to “a grandmother who’s a bit eccentric that puts on her eyeliner wrong.”
Flash forward to Milan, and a whole range of unique adaptations of the sixties makeup essential were employed to keep the plethora of references to that era from becoming too literal. At D&G, Pat McGrath added white to the equation, coating the inner rim of the lower lash line with Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup Crayon Intense Eyeliner in #13 White to add a modern, graphic touch to the thick black stroke on lids. A few hours later at Moschino, Tom Pecheux turned to MAC Technakohl liner in Graphblack to draw an oval shape that swept underneath the lower lash line and almost extended to the brow bone to resemble cat-eye sunglasses. “It looks like every girl is wearing them on the catwalk whether she is or not,” he quipped, topping the outline with a dusting of MAC Single Matte eye shadow in Carbon for opacity. On Sunday, it was Lucia Pieroni’s turn at Missoni, and she focused her attention on crafting an elongated black smudge along lower lash lines only using the same MAC Technakohl liner at Missoni to help hammer home the idea of “cool girls who are slightly masculine.”
As far as our favorite incarnation goes, it’s a tie. Yesterday at Giorgio Armani, the house’s resident face painter, Linda Cantello, etched two parallel lines extended toward the temple from the outer corners of models’ eyes for a look that was inspired by “the boudoir,” while Peter Philips brought things full circle at Jil Sander. Rather than extrapolate on the trend with a new shape, he chose to introduce a new color: a shimmering, blue-reen jade. And on to Paris, we go…
Moschino’s Fall runway may have had all the quirky twists you’d expect to see from the Italian fashion house (Coco Rocha sported a chicken hat, after all) but behind the scenes there was a well thought-out tribute to retro glamour, with nods to “high society, Mr. [Irving] Penn, and fifties makeup,” famed face painter Tom Pecheux revealed backstage. This meant yet another graphic eye sighting in Milan, but this one had a clever twist. “We stole the shape of this dark eye from the sunglasses in the collection, so it looks like every girl is wearing them on the catwalk whether she is or not,” Pecheux said as he layered MAC Single Matte eye shadow in Carbon on top of a base of its Technakohl liner in Graphblack drawn to resemble an elongated ovoid shape. To correspond with the collection’s masculine attitude, which was helped along by the appearance of a few German-style military caps, Pecheux applied a blend of MAC powder blush in Pink Swoon and Well Dressed in what he described as a “boyish” way, so low underneath the cheek bones to avoid “a pretty look.” Lips were erased with concealer to finish the face and to keep the focus on the eyes.
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert rolled models’ tresses into tight and tall conical French twists to mirror the exaggerated and elongated lids. “It’s a super-classic French twist that’s tight on the sides,” Gilbert disclosed while coating strands with Elnett hairspray, backcombing for height and texture, and pinning to secure.
Dita Von Teese is edging her way ever closer into the beauty biz. She’s just designed a pink silk satin eye mask in collaboration with Moschino. We would be all over a “By Dita” cosmetics line. Just sayin’. [Stylist]
You’ve heard of the Twinkie defense, but how ’bout the Atkins defense? A woman in the U.K. claims that her recent DWI was the result of her own body producing alcohol due to a low-carb diet. The judge didn’t buy it, in case you were wondering. (Those two priors really hurt her case.) [Daily Mail]
Curious about those at-home acne-zapping devices that boast advanced heat and light-emitting technologies to take aim at breakouts? Results are a mixed bag, apparently, although a fully functional blemish taser seems like a perfectly feasible idea to us with the way technological advancements are being churned out these days. [Mercury News]
Speaking of innovation, behold the Internal Bra System, a mesh, permanent built-in support that is implanted underneath your skin to function as “a bra cup without the straps.” What will they think of next? [Daily Mail]
Pompadour. Mohawk. Bouffant. Call it what you will, volumized, sculptural updos kept popping up on the Milan runway, prompting us to wonder if there was some kind of meeting of the world’s most influential styling minds in which an all-hands-in pact to keep things big was made over a teasing comb. From the soft, wispy Elvis extremism at MaxMara to the greaser-turned-punk look at Moschino and the almost Warholian mess of serpentine strands at Fendi, plain old straight and smooth will apparently not fly for Spring. Consider yourself in the know.
Photo: Counter-clockwise from left, Greg Kessler at MaxMara and Fendi; Marcio Madeira at Moschino
She was really all the inspiration Bumble and Bumble hairstylist Laurent Philippon needed to conceive the punk mohawk- by-way-of-fifties-pompadour-twist he fashioned for the Moschino
runway presentation yesterday. “The sides were up like a structured fifties updo, which lent a sharpness to the silhouette of the face, while the top emulated a rock ‘n’ roll coif—lots of volume with cotton-candy texture—all placed on the forehead in a wave,” Philippon explained. He achieved the sculptural shape through back-combing, Bb Does It All Styling Spray, and plain old ingenuity. Oh, and that is a touch of crimping you see on the ends, treated with a cloud of Bb Hair Powder to get a matte finish. Because, hey, why not throw another decade reference in for good measure? What are the fifties and eighties without the early nineties, anyway?
Photo: Marcio Madeira