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August 29 2014

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15 posts tagged "Moschino"

A “British-Riding-Set Homage,” Backstage At Moschino

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After last season’s all-out sixties tribute, arriving backstage at Moschino this morning, only to find peaches-and-cream complexions and ponytails, was more than a little change of pace. “Normally, Moschino is very full-on, but this season it’s very young and fresh,” makeup artist Tom Pecheux pointed out. “Very fresh, and very English.”

That much was clear from the soundtrack alone (Oasis, The Verve, and Blur, anyone?), as well as a specifically British dewy skin quality with a faint flush. “In France, you have the baguette; in England, you have the rosy fresh skin,” Pecheux elaborated, administering massages with a blend of Rodin Olio Lusso and Estée Lauder DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Crème before applying a moderate coverage of MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation. Concentrating a mix of its Cremeblend Blush in Posey and Cream Colour Base in Rich Coral on the apples of the cheeks—”not too high, because on high-definition cameras it looks bad,” Pecheux emphasized—he added multiple strokes of MAC Haute & Naughty mascara to lashes, then dabbed its sheer, dark pink lipstick in Red Statement onto pouts.

There was still a hint of the sixties in the hair, which was also rooted in the annals of British beauty. “I think we invented the sixties,” English hairstyling star Sam McKnight joked, coating strands with Pantene Triple Action Volume Mousse before drying them, fashioning a side part, and back-combing a small bump at the back of the head. Pulling the sides over the tops of models’ ears, McKnight gathered lengths into a low ponytail. “It’s a very British-riding-set homage,” he insisted. “They’re not ‘street’ girls.”

Rihanna Paints It White

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The news broke yesterday in the late afternoon via Twitter and Instagram: Chris Brown and Rihanna were canoodling at the Staples Center as the Lakers took on the Knicks in a Christmas Day nail-biter. Then came the tabloid onslaught as media outlets, reputable and otherwise, picked up on the fact that it was the first time in recent memory that the one-time couple arrived at a public event together following 2009′s assault charges and the persistent on-again, off-again rumors that followed. But no one’s talking about another interesting detail spotted courtside, namely Rihanna’s opaque white manicure. The “Stay” singer has ditched crazier nail art and pointed talons of late in favor of classic shapes and colors, making ivory polish a predictable choice, considering its huge showing on the Spring runways. From Rag & Bone and Kate Spade to Honor and Moschino, manicurists like Jin Soon Choi and Deborah Lippmann were seeing alabaster backstage. Try two coats of Revlon Top Speed Nail Enamel in Spirit or Deborah Lippmann’s Amazing Grace for similar results—and to properly accessorize your wardrobe of winter whites. Thoughts on Riri’s latest pro tips?

Photo: ROBYN BECK/AFP/Getty Images; Luca Cannonieri/ Gorunway.com

That Sixties Show

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There was an ongoing rivalry between nineties- and sixties-inspired beauty looks for Spring, as the former’s minimalism faced off against the latter’s over-the-top love of lashes, liner, and big, bouffant hair. For members of the style set looking for a little inspiration, though, there was much more to mine from retro throwbacks at shows like Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton—just ask Giovanna Battaglia. The W contributing editor slicked on a black cat-eye and a towering crown of beehive-caliber braids for the Take Home a Nude benefit art auction at Sotheby’s in New York last night, showing up even the best sixties runway tribute. Eat your heart out, Moschino. Thoughts on @Bat_Gio’s impressive coif?

Photo: Taylor Hill/Getty Images

“A Little Lana Del Rey, A Little Raquel Welch,” And Another Big Sixties Shout-Out Backstage At Moschino

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The beauty story at Moschino told itself: the teased-out bouffants, the white-rimmed lids, the loads of individual lashes—”It’s totally sixties,” Tom Pecheux confirmed backstage, shouting out the singular reference that has dominated the shows so far. “At least [Rossella Jardini] went there completely,” he joked of the designer’s full-on, swinging homage that put a “twisted, playful” spin on fashion’s reigning favorite decade.

There is something universal about the retro look, though, Pecheux insisted. “The strong brows are more forties,” he said as he filled in arches, “and the lashes are so huge they could be on [in 2012],” he continued of MAC Lashes in #35 and #33, which were painstakingly placed in between natural lashes and coated with its Haute & Naughty Mascara. The modernization of MAC’s Eye Kohl in Fascinating, a white pencil that Pecheux set with its Eyeshadow in Gesso and drew around the upper and lower lash lines, was a bit of a harder sell; ditto those “Typex” white nails and that quintessentially sixties coral mouth, which came courtesy of MAC Lipstick in Morange and a slick of its clear Lip Glass. But borrowing from the past does have its perks. “The sixties were about fun, and color and youth,” Pecheux pointed out, throwing in his two cents about why the style set is looking backward to move forward for Spring.

“[Stylist] Anna Dello Russo and Rossella [Jardini] were very specific about what they wanted,” hairstylist Sam McKnight chimed in, reciting the mix of muses he was given for inspiration. “It’s a little Lana Del Rey, a little Raquel Welch…a proper doll ‘do—very done,” he said of the voluminous, side-parted, half-up, half-down style that required a good amount of Pantene Pro-V Ultra Strong Mousse, its Ultra Strong Hairspray, and a lot of back-combing. After achieving his desired height, McKnight secured front sections in the back with bobby pins and smoothed lengths with his trusty Mason Pearson brush. “I didn’t know I had this much hair!” a surprised Cara Delevingne said as she settled into McKnight’s chair. “How do you get something like this out?” she asked. (After toiling over 33 girls and a tight deadline, McKnight let that one go with no response).

Photo: Rex Features via AP Images

Backstage At Moschino, Beauty That’s “Cool, Young, And A Little Rock ‘N’ Roll”

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Last season’s collective cat-eye homage has seen its fair share of updates and adaptations for Fall, showing up in a range of different colors and graphic shapes over the past few weeks. But there’s still something nice about seeing a plain black flick in its unadulterated state. “Bring it fuller to make it more cool,” Tom Pecheux instructed his team backstage at Moschino this morning, where the makeup artist was etching medium-width wings along models’ upper lash lines with MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack. “She’s basically the little sister of Amy Winehouse,” Pecheux said, describing Rossella Jardini’s beauty directive, which meant fresh skin, rosy cheeks, and a stain of MAC Lipstick in Morange pressed onto mouths. Brows were made full and bushy, thanks to a precise layering effort of creams and shadows, which Pecheux used to gradually re-create arches after they’d been bleached at Prada last night. “She wants to be cool and young and a little rock ‘n’ roll,” he continued, recommending a sight dusting of translucent powder across lids to set the black liner.


“It’s an updo, very sixties,” hairstylist Odile Gilbert said of the French twists she alternately accessorized with oversized, side-slung bows and black hats. (She carefully avoided any mention of the late British soul singer’s name after Jean Paul Gaultier was ridiculed for invoking her image at his Spring Couture show.) “We’re just using hair spray. It’s easy—that’s it!” Gilbert explained, simplifying the back-combing, folding, and pinning process that resulted in a perfected, towering coiff.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com