12 posts tagged "Moschino"
“A Little Lana Del Rey, A Little Raquel Welch,” And Another Big Sixties Shout-Out Backstage At Moschino
The beauty story at Moschino told itself: the teased-out bouffants, the white-rimmed lids, the loads of individual lashes—”It’s totally sixties,” Tom Pecheux confirmed backstage, shouting out the singular reference that has dominated the shows so far. “At least [Rossella Jardini] went there completely,” he joked of the designer’s full-on, swinging homage that put a “twisted, playful” spin on fashion’s reigning favorite decade.
There is something universal about the retro look, though, Pecheux insisted. “The strong brows are more forties,” he said as he filled in arches, “and the lashes are so huge they could be on [in 2012],” he continued of MAC Lashes in #35 and #33, which were painstakingly placed in between natural lashes and coated with its Haute & Naughty Mascara. The modernization of MAC’s Eye Kohl in Fascinating, a white pencil that Pecheux set with its Eyeshadow in Gesso and drew around the upper and lower lash lines, was a bit of a harder sell; ditto those “Typex” white nails and that quintessentially sixties coral mouth, which came courtesy of MAC Lipstick in Morange and a slick of its clear Lip Glass. But borrowing from the past does have its perks. “The sixties were about fun, and color and youth,” Pecheux pointed out, throwing in his two cents about why the style set is looking backward to move forward for Spring.
“[Stylist] Anna Dello Russo and Rossella [Jardini] were very specific about what they wanted,” hairstylist Sam McKnight chimed in, reciting the mix of muses he was given for inspiration. “It’s a little Lana Del Rey, a little Raquel Welch…a proper doll ‘do—very done,” he said of the voluminous, side-parted, half-up, half-down style that required a good amount of Pantene Pro-V Ultra Strong Mousse, its Ultra Strong Hairspray, and a lot of back-combing. After achieving his desired height, McKnight secured front sections in the back with bobby pins and smoothed lengths with his trusty Mason Pearson brush. “I didn’t know I had this much hair!” a surprised Cara Delevingne said as she settled into McKnight’s chair. “How do you get something like this out?” she asked. (After toiling over 33 girls and a tight deadline, McKnight let that one go with no response).
Last season’s collective cat-eye homage has seen its fair share of updates and adaptations for Fall, showing up in a range of different colors and graphic shapes over the past few weeks. But there’s still something nice about seeing a plain black flick in its unadulterated state. “Bring it fuller to make it more cool,” Tom Pecheux instructed his team backstage at Moschino this morning, where the makeup artist was etching medium-width wings along models’ upper lash lines with MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack. “She’s basically the little sister of Amy Winehouse,” Pecheux said, describing Rossella Jardini’s beauty directive, which meant fresh skin, rosy cheeks, and a stain of MAC Lipstick in Morange pressed onto mouths. Brows were made full and bushy, thanks to a precise layering effort of creams and shadows, which Pecheux used to gradually re-create arches after they’d been bleached at Prada last night. “She wants to be cool and young and a little rock ‘n’ roll,” he continued, recommending a sight dusting of translucent powder across lids to set the black liner.
“It’s an updo, very sixties,” hairstylist Odile Gilbert said of the French twists she alternately accessorized with oversized, side-slung bows and black hats. (She carefully avoided any mention of the late British soul singer’s name after Jean Paul Gaultier was ridiculed for invoking her image at his Spring Couture show.) “We’re just using hair spray. It’s easy—that’s it!” Gilbert explained, simplifying the back-combing, folding, and pinning process that resulted in a perfected, towering coiff.
It all started at the Couture shows in January. Peter Philips scrawled a deliberately short, thick, almost awkward line across models’ top lash lines at Chanel to “take the makeup look away from retro,” and a new era of unexpected liner applications had officially begun. Since then, the concept has been all over the Fall shows. At Marc Jacobs’ dominatrix extravaganza in New York, François Nars called his similar flicks “droopy,” comparing the downward sloping line he drew onto upper lash lines with his new for fall Larger Than Life Longwear Eyeliner in Via Venetto to “a grandmother who’s a bit eccentric that puts on her eyeliner wrong.”
Flash forward to Milan, and a whole range of unique adaptations of the sixties makeup essential were employed to keep the plethora of references to that era from becoming too literal. At D&G, Pat McGrath added white to the equation, coating the inner rim of the lower lash line with Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup Crayon Intense Eyeliner in #13 White to add a modern, graphic touch to the thick black stroke on lids. A few hours later at Moschino, Tom Pecheux turned to MAC Technakohl liner in Graphblack to draw an oval shape that swept underneath the lower lash line and almost extended to the brow bone to resemble cat-eye sunglasses. “It looks like every girl is wearing them on the catwalk whether she is or not,” he quipped, topping the outline with a dusting of MAC Single Matte eye shadow in Carbon for opacity. On Sunday, it was Lucia Pieroni’s turn at Missoni, and she focused her attention on crafting an elongated black smudge along lower lash lines only using the same MAC Technakohl liner at Missoni to help hammer home the idea of “cool girls who are slightly masculine.”
As far as our favorite incarnation goes, it’s a tie. Yesterday at Giorgio Armani, the house’s resident face painter, Linda Cantello, etched two parallel lines extended toward the temple from the outer corners of models’ eyes for a look that was inspired by “the boudoir,” while Peter Philips brought things full circle at Jil Sander. Rather than extrapolate on the trend with a new shape, he chose to introduce a new color: a shimmering, blue-reen jade. And on to Paris, we go…
Moschino’s Fall runway may have had all the quirky twists you’d expect to see from the Italian fashion house (Coco Rocha sported a chicken hat, after all) but behind the scenes there was a well thought-out tribute to retro glamour, with nods to “high society, Mr. [Irving] Penn, and fifties makeup,” famed face painter Tom Pecheux revealed backstage. This meant yet another graphic eye sighting in Milan, but this one had a clever twist. “We stole the shape of this dark eye from the sunglasses in the collection, so it looks like every girl is wearing them on the catwalk whether she is or not,” Pecheux said as he layered MAC Single Matte eye shadow in Carbon on top of a base of its Technakohl liner in Graphblack drawn to resemble an elongated ovoid shape. To correspond with the collection’s masculine attitude, which was helped along by the appearance of a few German-style military caps, Pecheux applied a blend of MAC powder blush in Pink Swoon and Well Dressed in what he described as a “boyish” way, so low underneath the cheek bones to avoid “a pretty look.” Lips were erased with concealer to finish the face and to keep the focus on the eyes.
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert rolled models’ tresses into tight and tall conical French twists to mirror the exaggerated and elongated lids. “It’s a super-classic French twist that’s tight on the sides,” Gilbert disclosed while coating strands with Elnett hairspray, backcombing for height and texture, and pinning to secure.
Dita Von Teese is edging her way ever closer into the beauty biz. She’s just designed a pink silk satin eye mask in collaboration with Moschino. We would be all over a “By Dita” cosmetics line. Just sayin’. [Stylist]
You’ve heard of the Twinkie defense, but how ’bout the Atkins defense? A woman in the U.K. claims that her recent DWI was the result of her own body producing alcohol due to a low-carb diet. The judge didn’t buy it, in case you were wondering. (Those two priors really hurt her case.) [Daily Mail]
Curious about those at-home acne-zapping devices that boast advanced heat and light-emitting technologies to take aim at breakouts? Results are a mixed bag, apparently, although a fully functional blemish taser seems like a perfectly feasible idea to us with the way technological advancements are being churned out these days. [Mercury News]
Speaking of innovation, behold the Internal Bra System, a mesh, permanent built-in support that is implanted underneath your skin to function as “a bra cup without the straps.” What will they think of next? [Daily Mail]