564 posts tagged "Nails"
“It’s very Valentino,” Guido Palau said matter-of-factly when describing the beauty look Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli ordered up for their Fall Couture show—a look, it should be noted, that maintains a certain degree of consistency from season to season. Rather than reinvent the wheel, Palau is typically tasked with coming up with “a new way to do something similar,” which more often than not involves a braid. Today, those plaits came via a thin, interwoven headband pinned across the head and behind the ears over a precise middle part that cascaded into two tight twists that were joined at the back of the neck using just a few spritzes of Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray for a light hold. “It’s very important to get a beautiful head shape for the profile,” Palau expressed to his team as he walked the aisles backstage at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild.
When done just right, leaving the forehead “big” and the silhouette round, the hair provided the perfect window into the velvety matte, rose-kissed “Renaissance” skin that Pat McGrath has made her signature here. “We’re perfecting a very natural beauty,” she explained, pointing out that the shimmering beige tones that she swept across lids, the single swipe of brown mascara just at the root of lashes “for framing,” and the creamy blush that she applied to both cheeks and lips was an attempt at re-creating the fresh young complexion of Maartje Verhoef, the Dutch stunner who did the makeup test and who left a lasting impression on McGrath. (Models’ high-gloss, black-cherry manicures just happened to work well with the collection.) When asked if there was a different sensibility infused into her Couture versus ready-to-wear work for the Italian design duo, the makeup artist replied, “Not really. It’s actually less makeup than we would do for ready-to-wear”—and no less beautiful for it.
Few fashion-show teams work the way Karl Lagerfeld, Sam McKnight, and Peter Philips do; like the designs in Lagerfeld’s Chanel Couture collections, the accompanying hair and makeup looks also come directly from his sketches. “Literally he [draws] with makeup,” Philips said of Lagerfeld’s proclivity to pick up lip pencils and powders instead of pens and crayons, which is where the precise idea for the beautifully faded Chanel Joues Contraste Blush in Plum Attraction that Philips applied along the temples, and on the very tops of models’ cheekbones, came from. “[Karl] also made a really strong eyebrow,” according to Philips, so the makeup artist followed suit crafting a “smoky brow,” rather than a smoky eye, diffusing the darker brown shades from Chanel’s forthcoming Les 4 Ombres eye shadow quad in Mystere through arches to keep them thick and sculpted. “It looks a bit futuristic with the set and the theme of the show,” Philips continued, describing the impressive build-out inside the Grand Palais as a “destroyed movie theater with elements of sci-fi.” A thin stroke of Chanel’s Le Crayon Khol in Noir along the outer corner of the upper lash line and a light dusting of the pale gold shade from the same eye palette across lids ensured that even guests in the makeshift auditorium’s cheap seats could catch a glimpse of Philips’ handiwork.
What may have been less obvious from the old-timey wooden chairs that were carefully assembled in the show space was the lack of a noticeable nail color on models’ fingertips, a detail that has become something of a Philips signature over the years. In its place was a newfangled approach to nail art in the form of rings that clipped around the actual nail bed and along each knuckle on models’ fingers.
Sam McKnight was working with his own bit of bling—or “back bands” as he referred to the crystal-encrusted demi-lunes that sat above long ponytails treated with Oribe’s Dry Texturizing Hairspray for a hint of definition after all the kinks had been worked out with ghd’s Eclipse straightener. “It’s a Grace Jones flat-top,” McKnight said of the front half of the dual-sectioned updo, which in some cases was accessorized with a square silhouetted hat, and boasted hints of 1950s rockabilly and eighteenth-century masculine quiffs, “with a huge element of Karl in there as well,” McKnight insisted. Using just models’ natural hair—no extensions—and “quite a lot” of Pantene Touchable Hairspray, the coiffeur admitted that he had chosen the labor-intensive path. ”Wigs are easy; this is very difficult.”
As far as holidays go, July Fourth has a lot going for it: barbecues, fireworks, an endless rotation of ice-cold adult beverages. Chances are you’ll need certain beauty essentials to last you through the first rays of sun (well, let’s hope) to the final explosions in the sky. In honor of the occasion, we rounded up five picks (plus a bonus) that will prove indispensable regardless of whether the festivities find you beachfront, lakeside, or city-bound.
Kate Somerville Daily Deflector Waterlight SPF 50+
Sun protection is a no-brainer, particularly if you will be spending a significant amount of time outside. Kate Somerville’s newest sunscreen is as un-sunblock-y as you can get—it’s super sheer, lightweight, moisturizing, and is apparently packed with shiitake-mushroom extract to help restore skin elasticity while blocking out those rays.
The Bluest Eye
Topshop Eye Crayon in Kingfisher
I will be the first to admit I’m all for some subtle holiday color coordinating—done tastefully. So with your, say, red-and-white polka-dot dress, might I suggest a thick swath of this bright aqua shadow stick across each lid. The blue color payoff is bold, and it will resist creasing for many a daylight hour.
Ilia Multi-Stick in I Put a Spell on You
In the colder months, I’m perfectly content for each product to serve one sole purpose, but in those dog days of summer, when the desire to simplify is stronger than ever, multifunctional is a must. My current favorite is this makeup stick by the green-minded brand Ilia; the pale coral I Put a Spell on You will suit a wide array of skin tones, and it looks just as good on lips as it does on cheeks.
Priti Nail Color in City Girl Rose
While the state of my fingernails usually falls somewhere between totally bare and complete disarray, on holidays I always find my inner girly girl and get down to some painting. Because my tips have gone naked for about a month now, I’m easing back into the polish game with this new peachy pink by Priti that reminds me of the sparkling rosé I plan to be guzzling all weekend.
Check Your Head
Alterna Caviar CC Cream
That’s right, there are now CC creams for your hair. And here’s why I’m getting behind this one: It has just enough hold as a styling cream, it’s hydrating, it has UV filters to protect your color from fading, and it smells pretty awesome. I plan to generously slather it on before milkmaid braiding.
Ursa Major Essential Face Wipes
A bonus for your summer tote bag: Ursa Major’s new Essential Face Wipes. Cleansing, soothing, and shine-reducing, these wipes are great after a bike ride (or any other sweaty hot-weather activity) for a much-needed refresh.
Hairstyles that are created to complement a collection’s clothes often turn out better than those that introduce an entirely new theme or idea; hairstyles that are created with a collection’s clothes often turn out even better. “It’s Boldini, but modern and more abstract,” Odile Gilbert said backstage at Alexis Mabille referencing the Italian painter whose flowing brushstrokes guided much of Mabille’s Couture designs—including those that made their way on top of models’ heads. “They’re flowers,” Gilbert explained of the pieces of hand-painted tulle that she took from select dresses and shellacked onto a Mexican-style head-wrapping technique that required copious amounts of professional-grade gel. “It’s a lot of work,” she admitted, combing product through panels of hair to create a sleek base for the fabric appliqués-turned-hair-accessories.
To keep it all from skewing too romantic—and to add a “touch of the futuristic” to the equation—makeup artist Carole Colombani dusted a mix of MAC Blush in Prism and its Sculpting Powder in Sculpt high onto the cheekbones and along the temples, cutting the light pink color with a sheer wash of its matte white Eye Shadows in Gesso and Blanc Type that extended from the outer corners of models’ lids. Then, mixing MAC Pigment in Silver with its Mixing Medium to create a molten-pewter effect, Colombani traced just the inner corners of the upper lash line with the metallic hue that was revisited on nails in the form of Essie’s No Place Like Chrome polish, which was dotted with alabaster moons. And lest you forget this was a Haute Couture beauty look, not your average ready-to-wear affair, false lashes upped the glamour quotient while lips were individualized per girl, using a blend of MAC Lipmixes in Fuchsia, Midtone Nude, and White.
Following that YSL Manifesto with the purple-paint-covered hands, Jessica Chastain is back to front the fragrance, this time with a perfectly applied smoky eye, pink lips, and the house’s classic Le Smoking. [E!]
Beauty apps are the big new thing in the digital universe. From nail-polish color simulations to hair-salon booking programs, your passport to manicured tips, complexion perfection, and well-coiffed strands is just a finger swipe away. [Shape]
If it seems like everyone has a fragrance these days, it’s because the do. Celebrities, cities, sports teams, and now even universities are creating signature scents. [Austinist]
The cruise industry is mounting a comeback that’s based less on the bad press you might have read about a few ill-fated vessels recently and more on new amenities like the medi-spa Botox and derma-filler treatments that are now being offered onboard some Norwegian and Celebrity Cruise Line vessels. [USA Today]