20 posts tagged "Narciso Rodriguez"
Narciso Rodriguez may increasingly be experimenting with color in his collections, but the complementary hair and makeup looks at his shows seem to be getting more and more stripped down in the process. Citing the success of Spring’s fresh, transparent face, Shiseido artistic director Dick Page confirmed that Rodriguez was keen on a repeat appearance. “I went to look at the clothes, and Narciso said, ‘I really loved how the girls looked last season. Can we do that again?’ I said sure. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
“It’s almost untouched,” Page elaborated of the nearly nude faces. “For a lot of women, it’s not enough,” he joked of the light-handed approach for which he swiped lids with the brown shadow from Shiseido’s limited-edition Eye Color Bar, while giving brows a “sketch of color” and definition with its Eyebrow Styling Compact. As he dabbed lips with its forthcoming Perfect Rouge lipstick in Harmony, a dark crimson, he asked, “So if you didn’t see that happen, you wouldn’t think she was wearing lipstick, right?” In fact, every model looked as though she was sporting a slightly tinted balm rather than full-on color. Sticking to the theme of simplicity, cheeks got a customized dusting of Shiseido’s Luminizing Satin Face Color while nails were kept short, round, and varnished with two coats of Deborah Lippmann’s ultra-sheer nude polish in Naked.
Paul Hanlon also picked up where he left off for Fall, bringing a certain ease to the hair as Rodriguez’s newly installed lead hairstylist. Creating imperfect center parts, Hanlon gave models smoothing blow-outs before applying a mist of hair spray to help slick strands behind the ears. Lengths were given a slight bend to create movement, but the key was to not do too much, thus letting Rodriguez’s traditionally understated clothes make the statement.
The beauty buzz at the Spring shows thus far has been largely about a return to simplicity. With a few notable exceptions, it’s been all clean skin and unfussy hair that is without reference and purposely devoid of too much glamour (read: volume). But after Narciso Rodriguez’s winning show, now seems like a good time to point out that while all the minimalism may seem like a newfound, palate-cleansing idea, it does indeed have a reference point in Narciso Rodriguez, the longtime king of understated chic.
“It’s vintage Narciso—and Calvin,” Shiseido artistic director Dick Page pointed out of the phenomenon that he, too, was partaking in backstage at Rodriguez’s Spring show, with a bare face and a glossy lid. Page, who met Rodriguez when the latter was working at Calvin Klein, has been painting faces for the designer for years. “Without being super conceptual about it, we’re doing nothing,” he explained of the makeup look, which, to be fair, was as barebones as it gets. Skin was given a slight highlight with Shiseido’s Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold, brows were brushed up and filled in using its Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable and Caviar, and lips and lids were coated in its Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment for a shiny flash of gloss. “It just felt right,” Page said. “The girls have to belong to the clothes and the collection; that’s the most important thing.”
Paul Hanlon’s center-parted strands, spritzed with By Byron Spirulina Hairspray, had “structure, sophistication, and shine,” which felt similarly right—a testament to the wunderkind’s skills as it was his first-ever Narciso show. “I’m very honored. I’m a big fan,” Hanlon said of the opportunity to replace Eugene Souleiman, who had been the third piece of the Rodriguez-Page trifecta for quite some time. “I’ve always been aware of who [Narciso's] woman is,” Hanlon confirmed, adding that to him, “the history is important.” So he dug into the archives a little bit, while adding his own updated touch in the form a hint of disheveledness achieved by “shaking” the hair out so it fell “very sporadically” before models hit the runway. Deborah Lippmann’s impeccably buffed nails finished the look—by which all other pared-down beauty looks this season will heretofore be judged.
Behind the makeup is a new video series in which Style.com takes you beyond backstage for an insider’s look at the unique creative relationship between designer, makeup artist and hairstylist at the idea conception phase. As you may have suspected, the glossy chignons and bold red lips that debut at the shows often see a series of incarnations before they hit the runway.
“It’s murder,” Dick Page said last weekend at the hair and makeup test for Narciso Rodriguez’s Fall show when the idea to do multiple makeup looks came up. But equipped with an “incisive” color palette and the complete faith of a designer who considers himself “fortunate” to have worked with the Shiseido artistic director for so many years, Page went for it anyway. Drawing inspiration from the colors in Rodriguez’s collection, he chose three shades of Shiseido’s forthcoming Lacquer Rouge in Blaze, a burnt orange; Drama, a blood red; and Savage, a chocolaty brown, which he alternated with two different eye looks, a dirty mandarin and a clean chartreuse, each of which was offset by a “scratch” of black liner. “It’s about the idea of individual color, individual women, not only in the clothes but in the makeup,” Rodriguez said of his collection.
Hair was kept uniform, though, styled as “a cross between a Mohawk and a mullet,” according to Wella Professionals global creative director Eugene Souleiman. “You have to think like him,” Souleiman said of getting to the heart of what Rodriguez wants each season. “And it’s all about quality with Narciso.” Case in point: Every model wore gloves on Rodriguez’s runway, but he had manicurist Deborah Lippmann paint their nails with Fashion, her mauve-beige lacquer, anyway. “They wanted her to be finished, because the Narciso woman would be finished,” she explained.
While Souleiman admitted that “nothing’s ever set in stone” when it comes to the beauty component here, team Rodriguez has a pretty good track record. “We’ve never had a drama, day of show,” the designer told us. Yesterday was no exception. Above, watch the process unfold in real time.
Pastel-tinged hair color just may be the beauty trend that won’t die. After Proenza Schouler showed lavender and mint green streaks at its Spring 2010 show, the hues have seen an endless stream of adaptations both on the runway and off. In addition to London’s famed Bleach salon and its ombré dip-dyeing technique’s arrival at Milk Studios during the Spring collections in New York, newfangled coloring techniques were spotted at Narciso Rodriguez via spray-on brights, and at Thakoon, where Odile Gilbert opted for colored clay that she watered down to create a paste. It’s trendy and fun—we get it. But the biggest draw to experimenting with off-kilter color as far as we’re concerned is that it’s temporary; unless you’re Charlotte Free, permanently neon pink hair is pretty tough to pull off. Australian haircare brand Kevin Murphy’s new Color Bugs offer up yet another way to have a noncommittal fling with eye-catching color. The super-opaque powder-filled pods are applied directly to hair, so you can do a streak or two if you’re color-shy or paint your entire head if you’re feeling particularly rebellious. The orange, purple, and pink pigments are meant to be applied to damp hair, and the kind of styling product you use determines the intensity level: Get a sheer cotton candy wash by prepping strands with styling spray, or go big with a dark mandarin by applying a cream or pomade. It’s sort of like that old Kool-Aid packet tinting trick, but, you know, way more sophisticated.
Kevin Murphy Color Bug, $20 each; visit www.kevinmurphy.com.au for salon locations.
Playing with tone rather than a range of different face colors has become one of the prevailing beauty trends to come out of the New York shows. The look backstage at Narciso Rodriguez provided yet another example of the technique’s versatility. “Intensely monochromatic” is how Shiseido artistic director Dick Page described the makeup, for which he played around with a single product: a mauve-y, prototype cream base. Page applied the pigment onto lids as well as underneath the lower lash line before blending it with Shiseido Shimmering Rouge Lipstick in Dragon, a soft red that was reduced to a warm nude when pressed onto pouts. As is customary at a Narciso show, brows were built up using Shiseido’s Shimmering Cream Eye Shadow, which Page insisted on applying himself. “No one else can be trusted!” he joked.
The makeup and Deborah Lippmann’s gray Waking Up in Vegas lacquer were purposely subdued to account for the large amount of color in the collection—and in the hair (kudos to Rodriguez for getting two of NYFW’s big beauty movements into one show). “We were looking at pictures of girls with streaks and I said, enough of that,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman explained of the look, which included a conical twist with bright, matted-down sides coated with spray-on hair color and copious amounts of Wella Super Set finishing spray (“you get what you’d get with a gel in half the time,” Souleiman said of the product’s quick-dry, defining abilities). Going for something “modern and striking,” the coiffing star chose five different accent shades, including white, bright orange, neon green, turquoise, and yellow. If anything can shake up the cult of dip-dyeing, this just might be it.