23 posts tagged "Narciso Rodriguez"
Throwback Thursday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Renée Simonsen
The Moment: Going Back to the Basics
The Motivation: If New York’s Spring 2014 collections are any indication, over-the-top color—with the exception of a statement lip in vibrant shades of orange, pink, and lilac—is taking a backseat to pristine skin and barely there makeup. From Donna Karan to Proenza Schouler to Narciso Rodriguez, an au naturel finish was the goal, and it’s a look that has stood the test of time. When we spotted this image of model Renée Simonsen, we were struck by her fresh face in a time of serious excess (sure, a slightly smoky eye is present, but it doesn’t overpower her porcelain skin and pared-down pout). It seems that even in 1988—when blue eye shadow, rouged cheeks, and frosted lipstick ran rampant—less was more.
The king of minimalism didn’t stray far from his roots this season when it came to hair and makeup (although the designer did display a new hem length on the runway). But behind the barely there maquillage was a study in both physiology and proportion, explained makeup pro Dick Page. “Rather than projecting the idea of painting the face, I thought about how everything is mobile and three-dimensional…it’s almost like when you do a life drawing in art class and have to think about structure.” For brows and lashes, he mixed three parts gel to one part brown mascara to achieve the optimal shade and texture. On lids, he blended Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Shoyu with a bit of moisturizer for a transparent finish, and applied the same shadow formula in Yuba to the inner corners to subtly catch the light. Page also concocted a custom shade of blush, with fairer girls receiving a ratio of two parts Lacquer Rouge in Metalrose (a reddish pink) to one part Hellebore (a plum), and used the same tones for darker complexions, only with the equation reversed. To apply, he pinched a cosmetic sponge to create a domed shape (seen above) that is optimal for working the product into the skin. A blend of foundation and Lacquer Rouge in Camel was tapped on to the lips for a muted effect.
Hairstylist Paul Hanlon kept things classic with what he described as an “old salon blow-dry.” He started by spritzing Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection from midlength down, and added Volumizing Mousse all the way through. Then Hanlon blew strands dry in large sections using big, round brushes. For a hint of sexiness and as an ode to the forties (a reference given to him by Rodriguez), he added a deep side part, hair-sprayed the top to cancel any flyaways, and used a drop or two of Treatment Light on the ends for separation. Simple, yet impactful—just like the collection.
Throwback Thursday offers the perfect opportunity to pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Carmen Kass
The Moment: Heidi braids
The Motivation: It’s hard to believe, but Narciso Rodriguez’s cult-favorite For Her fragrance is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year. Even harder to believe, though, is the fact that this Inez & Vinoodh ad image for the musk-laced scent has gone unchanged since its debut in 2003, even as new iterations of the iconic eau have come and gone. Why, you ask? For the same reason Rodriguez chose to use this preexisting shot from his 1998 fashion campaign, rather than an entirely new image, in the first place: It’s damn near perfect. You could easily argue that Kass, her hair the color of corn silk and twisted into a Eugene Souleiman-designed wispy, plaited coronet, has never looked better, embodying the visual interpretation of femininity and grace that Rodriguez, with the help of the noses Francis Kurkdjian and Christine Nagel, hoped to bottle. The word timeless is certainly overused, but it’s never rung more true than it does right here.
Narciso Rodriguez may increasingly be experimenting with color in his collections, but the complementary hair and makeup looks at his shows seem to be getting more and more stripped down in the process. Citing the success of Spring’s fresh, transparent face, Shiseido artistic director Dick Page confirmed that Rodriguez was keen on a repeat appearance. “I went to look at the clothes, and Narciso said, ‘I really loved how the girls looked last season. Can we do that again?’ I said sure. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
“It’s almost untouched,” Page elaborated of the nearly nude faces. “For a lot of women, it’s not enough,” he joked of the light-handed approach for which he swiped lids with the brown shadow from Shiseido’s limited-edition Eye Color Bar, while giving brows a “sketch of color” and definition with its Eyebrow Styling Compact. As he dabbed lips with its forthcoming Perfect Rouge lipstick in Harmony, a dark crimson, he asked, “So if you didn’t see that happen, you wouldn’t think she was wearing lipstick, right?” In fact, every model looked as though she was sporting a slightly tinted balm rather than full-on color. Sticking to the theme of simplicity, cheeks got a customized dusting of Shiseido’s Luminizing Satin Face Color while nails were kept short, round, and varnished with two coats of Deborah Lippmann’s ultra-sheer nude polish in Naked.
Paul Hanlon also picked up where he left off for Fall, bringing a certain ease to the hair as Rodriguez’s newly installed lead hairstylist. Creating imperfect center parts, Hanlon gave models smoothing blow-outs before applying a mist of hair spray to help slick strands behind the ears. Lengths were given a slight bend to create movement, but the key was to not do too much, thus letting Rodriguez’s traditionally understated clothes make the statement.
The beauty buzz at the Spring shows thus far has been largely about a return to simplicity. With a few notable exceptions, it’s been all clean skin and unfussy hair that is without reference and purposely devoid of too much glamour (read: volume). But after Narciso Rodriguez’s winning show, now seems like a good time to point out that while all the minimalism may seem like a newfound, palate-cleansing idea, it does indeed have a reference point in Narciso Rodriguez, the longtime king of understated chic.
“It’s vintage Narciso—and Calvin,” Shiseido artistic director Dick Page pointed out of the phenomenon that he, too, was partaking in backstage at Rodriguez’s Spring show, with a bare face and a glossy lid. Page, who met Rodriguez when the latter was working at Calvin Klein, has been painting faces for the designer for years. “Without being super conceptual about it, we’re doing nothing,” he explained of the makeup look, which, to be fair, was as barebones as it gets. Skin was given a slight highlight with Shiseido’s Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold, brows were brushed up and filled in using its Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable and Caviar, and lips and lids were coated in its Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment for a shiny flash of gloss. “It just felt right,” Page said. “The girls have to belong to the clothes and the collection; that’s the most important thing.”
Paul Hanlon’s center-parted strands, spritzed with By Byron Spirulina Hairspray, had “structure, sophistication, and shine,” which felt similarly right—a testament to the wunderkind’s skills as it was his first-ever Narciso show. “I’m very honored. I’m a big fan,” Hanlon said of the opportunity to replace Eugene Souleiman, who had been the third piece of the Rodriguez-Page trifecta for quite some time. “I’ve always been aware of who [Narciso's] woman is,” Hanlon confirmed, adding that to him, “the history is important.” So he dug into the archives a little bit, while adding his own updated touch in the form a hint of disheveledness achieved by “shaking” the hair out so it fell “very sporadically” before models hit the runway. Deborah Lippmann’s impeccably buffed nails finished the look—by which all other pared-down beauty looks this season will heretofore be judged.