23 posts tagged "Narciso Rodriguez"
Behind the makeup is a new video series in which Style.com takes you beyond backstage for an insider’s look at the unique creative relationship between designer, makeup artist and hairstylist at the idea conception phase. As you may have suspected, the glossy chignons and bold red lips that debut at the shows often see a series of incarnations before they hit the runway.
“It’s murder,” Dick Page said last weekend at the hair and makeup test for Narciso Rodriguez’s Fall show when the idea to do multiple makeup looks came up. But equipped with an “incisive” color palette and the complete faith of a designer who considers himself “fortunate” to have worked with the Shiseido artistic director for so many years, Page went for it anyway. Drawing inspiration from the colors in Rodriguez’s collection, he chose three shades of Shiseido’s forthcoming Lacquer Rouge in Blaze, a burnt orange; Drama, a blood red; and Savage, a chocolaty brown, which he alternated with two different eye looks, a dirty mandarin and a clean chartreuse, each of which was offset by a “scratch” of black liner. “It’s about the idea of individual color, individual women, not only in the clothes but in the makeup,” Rodriguez said of his collection.
Hair was kept uniform, though, styled as “a cross between a Mohawk and a mullet,” according to Wella Professionals global creative director Eugene Souleiman. “You have to think like him,” Souleiman said of getting to the heart of what Rodriguez wants each season. “And it’s all about quality with Narciso.” Case in point: Every model wore gloves on Rodriguez’s runway, but he had manicurist Deborah Lippmann paint their nails with Fashion, her mauve-beige lacquer, anyway. “They wanted her to be finished, because the Narciso woman would be finished,” she explained.
While Souleiman admitted that “nothing’s ever set in stone” when it comes to the beauty component here, team Rodriguez has a pretty good track record. “We’ve never had a drama, day of show,” the designer told us. Yesterday was no exception. Above, watch the process unfold in real time.
Pastel-tinged hair color just may be the beauty trend that won’t die. After Proenza Schouler showed lavender and mint green streaks at its Spring 2010 show, the hues have seen an endless stream of adaptations both on the runway and off. In addition to London’s famed Bleach salon and its ombré dip-dyeing technique’s arrival at Milk Studios during the Spring collections in New York, newfangled coloring techniques were spotted at Narciso Rodriguez via spray-on brights, and at Thakoon, where Odile Gilbert opted for colored clay that she watered down to create a paste. It’s trendy and fun—we get it. But the biggest draw to experimenting with off-kilter color as far as we’re concerned is that it’s temporary; unless you’re Charlotte Free, permanently neon pink hair is pretty tough to pull off. Australian haircare brand Kevin Murphy’s new Color Bugs offer up yet another way to have a noncommittal fling with eye-catching color. The super-opaque powder-filled pods are applied directly to hair, so you can do a streak or two if you’re color-shy or paint your entire head if you’re feeling particularly rebellious. The orange, purple, and pink pigments are meant to be applied to damp hair, and the kind of styling product you use determines the intensity level: Get a sheer cotton candy wash by prepping strands with styling spray, or go big with a dark mandarin by applying a cream or pomade. It’s sort of like that old Kool-Aid packet tinting trick, but, you know, way more sophisticated.
Kevin Murphy Color Bug, $20 each; visit www.kevinmurphy.com.au for salon locations.
Playing with tone rather than a range of different face colors has become one of the prevailing beauty trends to come out of the New York shows. The look backstage at Narciso Rodriguez provided yet another example of the technique’s versatility. “Intensely monochromatic” is how Shiseido artistic director Dick Page described the makeup, for which he played around with a single product: a mauve-y, prototype cream base. Page applied the pigment onto lids as well as underneath the lower lash line before blending it with Shiseido Shimmering Rouge Lipstick in Dragon, a soft red that was reduced to a warm nude when pressed onto pouts. As is customary at a Narciso show, brows were built up using Shiseido’s Shimmering Cream Eye Shadow, which Page insisted on applying himself. “No one else can be trusted!” he joked.
The makeup and Deborah Lippmann’s gray Waking Up in Vegas lacquer were purposely subdued to account for the large amount of color in the collection—and in the hair (kudos to Rodriguez for getting two of NYFW’s big beauty movements into one show). “We were looking at pictures of girls with streaks and I said, enough of that,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman explained of the look, which included a conical twist with bright, matted-down sides coated with spray-on hair color and copious amounts of Wella Super Set finishing spray (“you get what you’d get with a gel in half the time,” Souleiman said of the product’s quick-dry, defining abilities). Going for something “modern and striking,” the coiffing star chose five different accent shades, including white, bright orange, neon green, turquoise, and yellow. If anything can shake up the cult of dip-dyeing, this just might be it.
Deborah Lippmann is known for her collaborative nail lacquers, having already created polish colors with Lady Gaga, Whitney Houston, and Mary J. Blige. For fall, she’s teamed up with Narciso Rodriguez to officially release Stormy Weather, the dark slate she used backstage at his show. [Racked]
We’ve heard of nail art, but jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez is taking the concept to a whole other level with her Make Your Finger Box, now on sale at Opening Ceremony. The silver or gold ring features a cast of an actual fingertip painted with a red lacquer—a polish, it should be noted, that comes with the ring so you can match the rest of your actual nails to the accessory. [Opening Ceremony]
The surgeon general has come out to support health over hair, reminding women that “not wanting to get their hair wet or dirty” is not a reason to avoid exercise. [NYT]
The U.K. is keeping metrosexuality alive, as a new study reveals that 1 in 8 British men won’t go on vacation without their trusty hair dryer and straightener. [Daily Express]
Fashion warriors flying British Airways to Europe this season may be in for an olfactory treat. The airline has announced plans to introduce a new brand fragrance across its entire fleet to “ensure the customer has a uniform experience when flying.” [Independent]
Cream eye shadow was something of a staple at the Fall shows, where makeup artists used it to create washes of color that ranged from sheer finishes, like Lucia Pieroni’s greasy brown lids at Rochas, to the kind of opaque iteration Peter Philips employed at Chanel. But Shiseido’s makeup artistic director, Dick Page, took it one step further, devising a 12-piece range of Shimmering Cream Eye Colors inspired by his personal passion for art, and breaking them out at Narciso Rodriguez, Sonia Rykiel, and Michael Kors. “I began, as I always do, with my photography,” he says of the line. “Sometimes I lift just one element of the photograph and use that as my primary idea; sometimes it’s the overall feeling of the photograph,” Page explains. The cross pollination of his still images and makeup resulted in shades like Techno Gold, a brilliant gilded yellow that pays homage to a metallic blanket thrown over a motorcycle that Page snapped in Tokyo; Sable, shown above at Michael Kors, a glistening taupe that’s meant to resemble an extreme close-up of a piece of fur; and our personal favorite, Meadow, a glowing beige reminiscent of the wheat field that grows behind Page’s home in Long Island, which he often captures on film. A special formula that boasts a jewel-reflecting powder ensures that the pigments appear as radiant and dewy at the end of the day as when they are first applied, and a patented emulsification technology ensures that there is zero creasing, which means none of that crepe-iness some lesser cream colors can leave behind. The best part, as far as we’re concerned, is how easily the shadows can add a sense of luxury to your makeup. Simply dip your fingertip into the pot, pat on, and diffuse out. Talk about instant gratification.