122 posts tagged "NARS Cosmetics"
“I don’t put things into demographics or ages, I’m inspired by great women,” said Marc Jacobs at a soiree in Paris last night celebrating the European launch of his beauty line and its new face, 64-year-old Jessica Lange. “I love women with a strong voice and vision. I like people who are dynamic and creative. And again, women who indulge in fashion and beauty as part of their life, but it’s not their whole life.” Lange’s voice carried through the cloud-filled air at the designer’s Fall 2014 show, and yesterday evening the lyrics to “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” resounded through a room projected with a film starring the acclaimed actress shot by David Sims (which will appear in the window of Sephora on the Champs-Élysées come March 6). As I interviewed Jacobs and Lange’s lips and smoky eyes (the work of face painter Diane Kendal) panned across the walls, he explained: “It was important to set precedent just like we do with our fashion shows. What we’ll do with beauty is that we want to surprise, we don’t want to fall into a formula. We want to be able to respond to our inspirations at any given moment and go with it, and over time it will tell the story that beauty isn’t for this person or that person, it’s for anyone who wants it.”
It appears that a number of others are on the same page this week: NARS Cosmetics’ signed Charlotte Rampling; Angela Lindvall made an appearance at Balmain alongside modern-day supers like Karlie Kloss and Joan Smalls; and Rick Owens cast not only his employees but catwalk legends like Kirsten Owen, Ann Oost, and Hannelore Knuts. Perhaps the fashion world is becoming a little less enthralled by the barely legal (and often years away from legal), hot young things and like their women how they like their wine: aged to perfection.
Cosmetic giant NARS announced 68-year-old Charlotte Rampling as the brand’s new face earlier today. The British actress, a muse of founder and creative director François Nars, is set to star in a black-and-white campaign shot by Nars himself. “She is a natural beauty that feels strong yet relatable,” the company’s founder told WWD. “Charlotte’s ability of transformation is unparalleled. Whether captured in pieces of artwork, through the lens of a magazine photographer, or on film and the big screen, she has an amazing power to encompass a character.” With the brand’s impending twentieth anniversary, Nars believes that Rampling’s strength and mysterious air make her the perfect fit. It’s refreshing to see a real lady (and not a teenage model) steal the spotlight—and with labels like The Row (who cast 65-year-old Linda Rodin for their Pre-Fall lookbook) setting the trend for more senior moments, it appears the fountain of youth is quickly becoming overrated.
Outside of the clothes, brows were the stars of the show at Christopher Kane. Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni brushed arches up and filled them in with NARS Brow Perfector, the finished product resembling a young Brooke Shields. “These brows should look naturally full, not painted on,” Pieroni explained. She created a “shaft of light” down the center of faces with Illuminator in Copacabana and a forthcoming Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Andromeda. Highlights were placed over cheekbones, the bridge and tip of the nose, Cupid’s bow, and chin. A touch of Pure Matte Lipstick in Bangkok was pressed onto models’ mouths like a stain, and lashes—in what has become a defining feature for Fall 2014—were left bare.
Kane simply wanted “the girls to look like how they look,” said mane master Guido Palau. “Younger designers don’t tend to reference iconic women—they get off on how the model looks naturally. Little moments rather than big moments,” he noted. To craft these “little moments,” Palau used Redken’s Shine Flash for texture and sheen, keeping the length fairly straight and flat. To finish, he made a sharp center part and nonchalantly tucked the hair behind the ears. In the end, these subtle nuances brought the larger picture to life.
Spring’s bombed-out beach and choppy, bowl-style wigs gave way to a more “tonal” look that was as hauntingly beautiful as the night sky and cumulus clouds that floated above the Marc Jacobs runway. Instead of evoking kids who cut their own hair, these faux strands (inspired by Jessica Lange, whose voice carried through the air, and Polly Allen Mellen) were precise, blunt, and graphic—a job that could only be tasked to a master such as Guido Palau. “It’s so perfect that it looks futuristic; there’s no era reference when you look at the girls,” he explained. The five hair colors developed by Victoria Hunter at Whittemore House Salon were “pulled back” and “off”—almost like an “old lady” would layer watercolor-like hues over gray—creating an odd, mink-y brown, blond, or silvery white tinged with pink or purple, Palau said. “It’s like an illustration come to life,” he added. “Everything matches.”
Mimicking the colors and textures of the fabrics in the collection, François Nars focused his efforts on the eyes. A light gray shadow was dusted over the lid and accented by “touches of chocolate” outlining the crease and, lightly, the lower lash line. Brows were bleached and then dyed the same shade as the wig. “You used to see that on Vogue covers in the sixties; hairdressers would match the brows to the hair color,” he noted. Nars Lip Gloss in Striptease, a nude laced with silver, was dabbed onto the lips with his fingertip to catch the light.
Manicurist Marian Newman extended the color palette all the way down to models’ fingers, painting nails with five custom-blended lacquers from the designer’s eponymous cosmetics collection that ranged from pale porcelain to purple-y mushroom (available for Fall 2014). The total package was, as Palau described, “a bit eerie and unsettling,” but completely calculated and immaculate—obviously the work of a man who strives for perfection.
Glitter, butterflies, and Star Wars—that’s what little girls are made of, at least in the minds of Kate and Laura Mulleavy. There was certainly no shortage of sparkle backstage, as makeup artist James Kaliardos channeled “childhood remembrances of beauty before grunge ruined them,” he explained. And what child of the eighties wouldn’t want glitter lipstick? I’m not talking a delicate sprinkling of sparkle—Kaliardos went to town mixing the fine, shimmery particles with two shades of NARS lipstick: Deborah Audacious (a brown-berry) and Dominique Audacious (a mauve-y pink). Complexions were perfected with full-on foundation, concealer, and powder, while the contours of the face were dusted with a luminescent blush (dubbed Unlawful) and layered with the Matte Multiple in Anguilla. The eyes were as over-the-top as models’ mouths, with the reddish brown side of the forthcoming Dolomites Duo used on the lower rim, over the lid, and up into the brows. The adjacent lavender shadow was dusted on the center and inner corners before mascara was applied to the top lashes only. The resulting cloud of color was how Kaliardos imagined Cinderella would have worn her eye makeup—except she would have chosen pale blue.
The hair—especially on catwalker Chloe Nørgaard, whose rainbow color is as spectacular as a My Little Pony—was equally as dreamy. Odile Gilbert added in extensions for length that could rival Rapunzel’s, before spritzing strands with John Frieda leave-in conditioner and creating two braids. “It’s not a question of being thick, it’s a question of being long,” she explained. After letting the plaits set, she unraveled them to reveal mermaidlike waves before making a side part, twisting one side back, and pinning it in place with a butterfly-adorned barrette. Nails also got the princess treatment—receiving a layer of Sally Hansen lacquer in Pink Dream, an iridescent glitter available in September. If the designers are looking for someone to play dress-up with, I’m ready, willing, and available.