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July 29 2014

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10 posts tagged "Neil Moodie"

Backstage At Burberry, It’s Beauty Business As Usual

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“Classic Burberry” has long been the inspiration backstage at Christopher Bailey’s show, and his hair and makeup team, made up of Neil Moodie and Wendy Rowe, respectively, show up knowing that resistance to the plan is futile. What exactly is “classic Burberry” beauty? “The key word is effortless,” says Moodie. “So it doesn’t feel as though [Wendy and I] have been here at all.” Their presence was more than necessary, though, considering that the kind of deliberate ease they were after happens to be extremely hard to manufacture. Prepping hair with Bumble and Bumble Prep lotion and its Styling Spray, Moodie diffused strands so they dried with a natural texture. Then, using his WAM ceramic curling iron and a few spritzes of Bb Shine Spray, Moodie “tapped out a bit of a bend” through the ends so hair didn’t lay flat but rather appeared as though a gentle gust of wind had swept through it.

Rowe did her part to honor the house’s beauty codes by taking the makeup “back to basics,” with a fresh, light color palette. Mixing Burberry Beauty Sheer Foundation with its Fresh Glow illuminator for sheer, dewy coverage, Rowe added a “wash of color” to lids using its Eyeshadow in Taupe Brown and Almond, dusting a hint of the shimmering beige Pale Barley onto the inner corners to catch the bright runway lights. Lips were treated to a slick of a new-for-Spring lipstick shade in Tulip, a tawny pink, while brows were slightly sculpted to enhance models’ natural shape if they needed enhancing. Model and muse Cara Delevingne’s arches certainly did not. (“I was born with these massive puppies,” she joked when we inquired about her enviable brows. “I do them myself—no threading, just a little tweezing.”) To complete the look, Rococo Nail Apparel’s Ange and Vernice Walker were brought in to paint on a few coats of their new Nude Wardrobe lacquer line, which features six different neutral polishes that coordinate with a range of skin tones. It was—and always will be—a nail-art free zone.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

Backstage At BCBG, Humidity Not An Issue

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Before the weather gods decided to smile down on the isle of Manhattan—at least for a few hours—day one of New York fashion week started out a soggy, muggy mess. And while we struggled to keep our ever-growing frizz problem under control backstage at BCBG Max Azria, Bumble and Bumble hairstylist Neil Moodie was relishing in the wet conditions. “My inspiration was Barbara Bach in the James Bond movie [The Spy Who Loved Me] when she comes out of the water and brushes her hair back,” Moodie said, fashioning sleek coifs to accommodate the collection’s “1920′s with a bit of sporty athleticism” vibe (not necessarily the lingering effects of Tropical Storm Lee). Coating models’ strands in Bb Thickening Hairspray, Moodie used a wide-tooth comb to disperse its Gel in sections “so it looks like [the girls] used their own hands.” To give the illusion that the hair had just started to dry in the sun, Moodie rough-dried ends and used a large barrel curling iron to create piece-y waves. A mist of Bb Shine Spray right before models walked out onto the runway provided a dewy effect.

Dewiness also happened to be the key to Maybelline global makeup artist Charlotte Willer’s application. “She’s a girl who’s been out running, then comes home, takes a shower, and gets out looking amazing,” Willer explained. To keep skin radiant and moist, Willer turned to Maybelline’s Fit Me foundation—”it’s like a second skin,” she said—and applied varying deep rose shades of its powder blush for a natural flush. As a finishing touch, she swiped Maybelline’s new Baby Lips clear balm across lids and onto mouths for a dose of hydration. Simple as it all seemed, Willer was eager to issue an important proviso for at-home duplication: When applying foundation and blush, “Don’t forget the neck.”

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Retro Revamped, Backstage At Burberry

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“A modern version of the sixties feel” is how Wendy Rowe, Christopher Bailey’s go-to makeup artist, described the beauty look backstage at Burberry—a show that was designed in homage to Jean Shrimpton. And there were hints of Britain’s early-sixties model muse in the sculpted brows Rowe filled in with Burberry Eye Shadow in Taupe Brown and the near perfect skin she constructed using its Foundation and soon-to-debut Concealer. Also era-appropriate: hairstylist Neil Moodie’s middle parts, which he coated with Bumble and Bumble’s Prep Spray and its Styling Lotion, skipping the slight teasing preferred by Shrimpton and her cohorts in the heyday of high hair. But the wash of earthen pigment on eyes and lips was totally twenty-first century. Layering Burberry Sheer Eye Shadow in Almond and Antique Rose on lids, Rowe dusted its new-for-spring Blush Light Glow in Earthy across cheekbones, pressing its forthcoming Lip Mist in Copper 02 onto pouts for a moisturized, slightly tinted glow before applying a few lashings of its Effortless Mascara. The whole package made for an impression that was decidedly un-retro—a welcome counterpoint to Bailey’s nostalgic Dalmation-print caps.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

“Tomboy Beauty,” Backstage at BCBG

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“We needed to toughen the girls up a bit,” hairstylist Neil Moodie said backstage at BCBG this morning, referencing the sleek “tomboy beauty” he and makeup artist Charlotte Willer put together for Max and Lubov Azria’s twenties-meets-seventies collection. “The clothes are very flirty and airy, so we wanted to keep it from getting too ethereal.” Moodie coated models’ manes with Bumble and Bumble Prep layered with its Styling Lotion before blowing hair out and creating a deep, “but not too severe” side part. He then swept up strands into a low ponytail, leaving out a tiny section to wrap around the elastic that secured the updo. “They like a very modern girl—nothing too gimmicky,” Willer concurred. In keeping with that MO, she painted a very natural, clean face by layering Maybelline’s new Fit Me foundation and powder and adding a slight warmth to the complexion with blush on the apples of models’ cheeks. Eyes received a wash of brown pigments form Maybelline’s Eye Studio Color Plush Silk Eyeshadow quad in Call Time, the darkest color of which Willer dragged underneath the lower lash line, while concentrating the “pearly” shade in the center of lids for a “dolly” look. A flesh-toned lip courtesy of Maybelline Color Sensational lipstick in Almost Nude and a few coats of OPI’s Samoan Sand lacquer, a creamy beige, kept things pretty and contemporary without verging into high-drama territory.

Photo: Courtesy of AP Photo

At Burberry Prorsum, The Lob Gets Longer

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As loyal readers of this blog may remember, I cut off all of my hair last season—right before the Spring shows, in fact. After ten-plus years of long locks that dangled well past my shoulders, I went with an asymmetrical bob that was cropped in the back and hung slightly longer in the front, with face-framing layers to boot. It was a welcome change, and I kept it up for about three months before getting lazy and failing to schedule regular trims. I’m finding myself at a crossroads these days, sporting a messy “lob” that’s still asymmetrical with a few added inches to weigh it down. But apparently, I can stop worrying over what to do—I’m right on trend for Fall. At Burberry Prorsum, Neil Moodie styled models with a variant of the long lob.”I was inspired by the A-line bob, where the front of the hair is cut on an angle so it is longer at the front than the back, creating a heavy feeling,” Moodie said between spritzes of Bumble and Bumble Thickening Hairspray backstage yesterday. “I am taking this idea and applying it to longer hair lengths here, though, so if any model has longer layered hair I am disguising the layers with hair extensions to create that weighty feel in the front, and keeping it shorter in the back.” He described the style as “natural, effortless chic,” perfect for the urban Burberry girl—and urban Brooklyn girls, it turns out, who just may need to own that gigantic-collared military parka from look 10 come September.

Photo: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse / FirstView.com; Ian Gavan / Getty Images