33 posts tagged "New York Fashion Week"
The manicures in Milan and Paris have been rather subdued for Spring 2014, with metallic and lipstick red polishes occasionally being slicked on tips. The bottle broken out most, however, seems to be Chanel Le Vernis Nail Colour in Ballerina. And the crowds attending the shows have been sporting equally simple paint jobs (beauty editors included, as most of us have naked nails at this point in the season).
New York, however, was a different story. Everyone was fresh out of the gate and the nail game was fierce. To capitalize on the manicure competition, lacquer legend Deborah Lippmann set up a manicam backstage to capture not only the looks she created (her favorite being the “almond-etto” shape with a white base, pewter point, and bright horizontal stripe at Kate Spade), but those of backstage attendees as well. “I love watching each set of hands walk,” Lippmann said, “There are some that skip or dance down the runway, others are very focused and walk with real intention; while a few sexily slink down the catwalk—it all depends on the color they’re wearing.” She plans to capture more manicure footage by keeping the camera rolling in her office and any other places she goes with great nails. The art on your tips, similar to the clothes that you wear, are a form of self-expression, Lippmann explained, “and this is a great way to allow someone to flaunt it.” Check out the best of the best from the Big Apple in the video above.
This season, there has been quite a buzz backstage surrounding maquillage master Tom Pecheux’s muse, Pascal. He has his own Instagram account (@PascalPascale), where he’s featured on shoulders (including Style.com’s Tim Blanks), in pockets, and being kissed by some of he biggest names in the fashion biz. The white doll has even has his own personal makeup artist, Anoli (a member of Pecheux’s team), that paints his face with the look for every show his adoptive father has keyed for Spring 2014. “It’s a modern world that’s open for anything you want to be, and Pascal is a modern child that can be anything you want to see—him or her,” she says. And I have to admit that today’s graphic eye shadow in particular, seen on Anthony Vaccarello’s runway, really brought out Pascal’s bone structure. While hair pro Paul Hanlon’s crew may have Frida Kahlo as their mascot (as seen in our Editor’s Diary), this backstage fixture sits first class and always seems to snag a window seat on planes to and from fashion locales (just check out his selfies for proof). But all in all, the doll is more than just a blank canvas for Pecheux’s imagination. “[Pascal represents] freedom—freedom of art, freedom of choice, freedom of creativity,” elaborates Anoli. That’s quite a tall order for someone so small.
If you looked at the models at Marc Jacobs and thought, “Did they plop a bowl on their heads and take a pair of scissors to their hair?” you were on the right track. To achieve the uniformity the designer requested, hairstylist Guido Palau fitted models with blond wigs dyed by Victoria Hunter at Whittemore House Salon in New York City, then went at them with scissors and razors. The references for the choppy style: surfers, Los Angeles, and kids who cut their own hair. To add texture, he dressed strands with Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray.
François Nars also set out to make the girls appear more “interesting” than pretty, “characters” over classic beauties. “I’m bored to death with the healthy look,” he explained, using only NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer on the face. The eyes are where he added the edge, rimming the upper and lower waterlines with either the Eyeliner Pencil in Kalisté (a darkened teal) or Larger Than Life Eyeliner in Blue Dahlia (a cobalt shade launching for the holiday season)—adding a small “slash” of color to the inner and outer corners to finish. The final touch was “tons” of black mascara.
And while manicurist Marian Newman insisted that the squared-off tips coated in a specially created color (Bark!—available for summer 2014) of Enamored Hi-Shine Lacquer from Marc Jacobs Beauty were not French in style, the tiny jet-black crystals lined along the free edge certainly said otherwise. “The whole point [of this manicure] is that it’s all a little bit wrong—it’s Spring/Summer and we’re using a grungy brown.” I suppose I never expected to see a look that was in step with the rest of the week; after all, this is a man who sets the trends.
When it comes to Ralph Lauren, you’re not going to find anything earth-shattering backstage—there will be never be a trendy lip color or daring eyeshadow, which some may find repetitive, or to put it bluntly, boring. I, however, appreciate a man who knows what he likes and sticks to the classics. And on the last morning of fashion week, who needs surprises? (After all, we’ve got Marc Jacobs for that.) But this season, instead of the low ponytail we know and love, there was a slight departure: Guido Palau switched things up with a more casual blowout. (Baby steps, ladies and gentlemen, baby steps.) He prepped damp strands with Redken Satinwear 02 from roots to tips, made a slightly off center part, then blew hair straight using a round brush. For a glossy finish, he applied a drop or two of Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine through the ends.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux added some sixties flavor to the face—citing Twiggy and Jane Birkin as muses. “We decided to play a little bit with that [theme], but in the Ralph world,” he said. And while Palau had his blowouts, Pecheux was able to use black mascara on both top and bottom—for the first time ever. But before he got to the exciting part, he perfected models’ complexions with a light layer of foundation and powdered the T-zone. Next, he sheered out MAC Mineralize SkinFinish Natural in Medium Deep (a bronzer) with translucent powder and swept it gently along the hollows of the cheeks, adding a touch of MAC Pleasure Model Extra Dimension Blush (the same shade used at Proenza Schouler, available for spring/summer 2014) just below the apples so as to not make the models look too “girlish.” After brushing brows up and curling the lashes, he took the 205 Mascara Fan Brush from MAC and coated the bottom lashes with Estée Lauder Sumptuous Extreme Lash Multiplying Volume Mascara in Extreme Black. As for opposing set, the wand that comes inside the tube did the job. Next, Pecheux rimmed the inner eye with an alabaster-colored liner pencil and drew a rough band across the upper lash line before diffusing the pigment up over the lid with a small, synthetic brush. “I used a white pencil [instead of powder] because I wanted to avoid flakes on the lashes,” he added. To make sure the fourth row could clearly see the fringe, he applied a second layer of mascara to the top lashes—this time using the fan brush to work the formula into the roots. The lips were dabbed with a simple balm. Sure, there was nothing truly revolutionary here, but I give Ralph Lauren points for taking some “risks.”
The models who walked down the runway looked as if they’d just stepped out of a painting produced by William Holman Hunt or John Everett Millais, both founders of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood (an artistic movement in Victorian England). Makeup master Pat McGrath put a slight twist on the theme by injecting “psychedelic pastels” and adding a touch of sparkle for a bit of “Anna Sui magic.” While the majority of models received the rosy treatment, there were three—Hanne Gaby Odiele, Julia Nobis, and Janice Alida—who wore a pop of punchy acidic blue on their lids.
McGrath started by evening out the skin with foundation and concealer, then applied CoverGirl Clean Glow Blush in Roses on the cheeks, lids, and along the lower lash line. She topped that with a slightly deeper pink shade, Simply Ageless Sculpting Blush in Lush Berry (a cream formula). To add a subtle luminescence, the face painter dabbed a gold highlighter (available in January 2014) on the tops of cheekbones and inner corners of the eyes, and finished with a light dusting of glitter on the center of the lid. After lashes were coated with rich black mascara, she used Lipslicks Smoochies Lip Balm in Luv Bug to lend a sheer stain to lips. The process remained the same for the trio with the brighter shadow, only this time McGrath swapped out the blush on the eyes for a theatrical paint, running the color into the inner corners and just up past the crease. (Try Flamed Out Shadow Pot in Sapphire Flare for a similar effect.) For more definition, black mascara was also added to the bottom lashes.
Hairstylist Garren set out to combine two contrasting ideas: rock ‘n’ roll and romanticism. After strands were lengthened with extensions, he made a center part. “If I made a side part, it would turn into a disco [look],” he said. (For models with shorter cuts, he pulled the top half up into a small knot and added extensions to the back and sides.) Next, he sectioned the hair and made waves by clamping a triple-barrel iron at an angle about a half-inch from the root down to the ends, starting at the bottom layers and working his way up to the surface. To lend an undone, airy finish, he used a wide-tooth comb to brush through and open up the waves. Paired with the beaded headpieces and floral crowns, the total package was dreamy but not at all dated.