9 posts tagged "NYFW Fall 2010"
Yesterday at Oscar de la Renta, we saw manicurist Yuna Park applying a totally lust-worthy deep asphalt lacquer to models’ fingertips. “I couldn’t find the right shade so I had to make this one,” Park told us, dashing any hopes we may have had about getting our hands on a bottle. But all is not lost: Park was using a nearly identical grayish-blue varnish this morning at the L’Wren Scott show. (Even Scott herself was sporting it and reportedly created this version with Lancôme’s Artistic Director for Makeup, Aaron De Mey). There’s no word as to whether Lancôme will be producing the polish as part of its fall color collection—but if the oohs and aahs it inspired in today’s showgoers are any indication, they absolutely should.
Last week, we broke the news that Estée Lauder would be making its fashion week debut at Derek Lam, and yesterday morning we finally got the chance to see what the beauty company is capable of on the catwalk with makeup artist Tom Pecheux at the helm. It was worth the wait. Loosely working off of Lam’s Native American inspiration, Pecheux swept a new Estée Lauder Pure Color Eyeshadow in copper under the lower lash line, dabbing it on top of a brown lipstick as well to work the familiar American West hue into the mix. Otherwise, though, the face painter was left to his own devices. “The blue really came out of the blue,” Pecheux quipped of the strong eye he focused most of his attention on, using a navy eyeliner as a base and drawing it over the entire lid up to the brow to bring “power” to the face before he topped it off with a shimmering blue shadow. “At Derek we always break the rules a bit,” the self-proclaimed “bad boy with a good education” said of his divergence from the collection’s general color scheme. That’s a proclivity that bodes well for his first Lauder collection due out in the fall, as far as we’re concerned. “I can’t destroy the heritage of that company,” Pecheux joked. “I just want to bring in a little fashion, some fantasy, naughtiness, and above all youth—a word that they truly own but don’t use enough.” Get excited.
The matte nail trend that started at Alexander Wang’s Fall 2009 show and then ballooned into full line extensions and no-shine topcoats at the consumer level over the past year is apparently here to stay—at Wang and elsewhere. Butter London’s Nonie Creme christened the two coats of mauve Yummy Mummy followed by a mattifying layer of Nail Foundation the “Alexander Wang nail” at Pier 94 last night, noting that no matter what she mixes up for the designer pre-show, he always comes back to the no-shine nude that’s worked so well for him in the past. And it didn’t stop there. This morning at Catherine Malandrino, CND’s Jan Arnold employed a mechanical mattifying technique to nails, pressing a fiber-free pad over her Dark Ruby lacquer to create a lusterless texture reminiscent of the leather in Malandrino’s collection. Perhaps the most exciting evolution of the trend came at DKNY this afternoon, however, where Mike Potter and his Knock Out Cosmetics’ varnishes made their runway debut. Potter, who has come up with the best range of matte-finish shades on the market, in our humble opinion, painted models’ fingers in varying shades of Plaster, a tan “Band-aid” color; Concrete, a taupe-y gray; Pool, an aqua that was turned into an azure at Karan’s request; and Sher, a sherbet melon that will hit shelves next month. “Using bright colors with matte finishes gives you that saturation without all of the flashiness,” Potter said backstage. If this idea intrigues those of you who have steered clear of the matte bandwagon for the past year, it looks like you’ll have another season to contemplate getting on board.
Ruffian’s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais have pretty much owned the moon manicure for the past few seasons, finding a way to work the popular forties-era style into their collections no matter what their sartorial inspiration may be. To better serve their planetary theme for Fall, however, they switched things up ever so slightly. “Instead of a moon, I did an eclipse,” CND’s Roxanne Valinoti told us yesterday, explaining how she essentially turned the classic technique on its head. Starting with an opaque gold polish, Valinoti applied a layer of navy on top, so the sliver of metallic lacquer that remained visible curved toward the nail bed instead of away from it. It was far out, to say the least, and will definitely be added to our repertoire of new ways to challenge whatever poor manicurist we should happen upon next time we hit up the local nail salon.
Sparkly lips fit for the club were only part of the story backstage at Doo.Ri yesterday. Manicurist Jin Soon Choi was also on hand with a brand-new, as-yet-unnamed nail lacquer that she revealed to Style.com will be part of—wait for it—her second collection for MAC Cosmetics. Yes, Choi will be releasing another line of limited-edition polishes for the beauty brand at the end of the summer, which will include the warm, shimmering cement gray varnish she debuted at Eye Beam Gallery yesterday. The almost-putty color “complements, not crushes” strong clothes, she said, adding that the flecks of gold in the creamy polish provide a touch of sophistication. Just like that, we already know what our signature manicure will be when the Spring shows come around in September.