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April 20 2014

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66 posts tagged "Odile Gilbert"

Putting on the Glitz, Backstage at Rodarte

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rodarteGlitter, butterflies, and Star Wars—that’s what little girls are made of, at least in the minds of Kate and Laura Mulleavy. There was certainly no shortage of sparkle backstage, as makeup artist James Kaliardos channeled “childhood remembrances of beauty before grunge ruined them,” he explained. And what child of the eighties wouldn’t want glitter lipstick? I’m not talking a delicate sprinkling of sparkle—Kaliardos went to town mixing the fine, shimmery particles with two shades of NARS lipstick: Deborah Audacious (a brown-berry) and Dominique Audacious (a mauve-y pink). Complexions were perfected with full-on foundation, concealer, and powder, while the contours of the face were dusted with a luminescent blush (dubbed Unlawful) and layered with the Matte Multiple in Anguilla. The eyes were as over-the-top as models’ mouths, with the reddish brown side of the forthcoming Dolomites Duo used on the lower rim, over the lid, and up into the brows. The adjacent lavender shadow was dusted on the center and inner corners before mascara was applied to the top lashes only. The resulting cloud of color was how Kaliardos imagined Cinderella would have worn her eye makeup—except she would have chosen pale blue.

The hair—especially on catwalker Chloe Nørgaard, whose rainbow color is as spectacular as a My Little Pony—was equally as dreamy. Odile Gilbert added in extensions for length that could rival Rapunzel’s, before spritzing strands with John Frieda leave-in conditioner and creating two braids. “It’s not a question of being thick, it’s a question of being long,” she explained. After letting the plaits set, she unraveled them to reveal mermaidlike waves before making a side part, twisting one side back, and pinning it in place with a butterfly-adorned barrette. Nails also got the princess treatment—receiving a layer of Sally Hansen lacquer in Pink Dream, an iridescent glitter available in September. If the designers are looking for someone to play dress-up with, I’m ready, willing, and available.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com

Seattle Sportif, Backstage at Thakoon

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thakoon-crop“His inspiration this season was a girl from northwest America who loves Patagonia and comes to New York to shop,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal of the designer’s muse. To reflect that same “spontaneous” spirit on the face, Kendal created a reverse cat-eye using NARS Eyeliner Pencil in Mambo—starting from the middle of the lower lash line and kicking it out past the outer corners. She topped it with reddish-brown shadow from the forthcoming Dolomites Duo. “Black is typical,” Kendal said of her shade choice. “This represents that she does what she likes to do.” The rest of the complexion was just as unfussy and fresh—using highlighter on top of cheekbones and across the lids for a subtle sheen.

The hair was less about a Seattle native armed with an American Express card, and more about a girl who hits the gym. “She has beautiful hair, but she’s been sweating,” said Odile Gilbert, who prepped strands with Kérastase Spray à Porter (a volumizing spritz) to lift the roots and blasted the back with dry shampoo for a fluffy, matte texture. After making a deep side part, Lift Vertige gel was generously applied to the front sections for a “wet” effect before they were tucked behind the ears. A few pieces of length were given a similar treatment with Touche Perfection cream. “There are some elements [in the collection] that are part of the sports world,” Gilbert explained of where she found her athletic inspiration. Appropriate, seeing as the Sochi Olympics are in full swing.

Photo: Courtesy of NARS Cosmetics

Starry Eyed, Backstage at Altuzarra

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altuzarra-cropWhere makeup artist Tom Pecheux started is not where he wound up at Altuzarra. Inspired by the double-faced cashmere in the collection, his first instinct was to create a dual-colored eye. “It looked so uptown…a little bit tight-ass,” he said of the initial attempt. To loosen things up, he reached for a pot of MAC 3D Glitter in Brass Gold (a metallic with a green undertone) that was sitting on the table at the test, and the look suddenly fell into place. Or as the designer’s mother, Karen Altuzarra, quipped, “It was dumb luck.” To give the glitter something to grip onto, he prepped lids with concealer or foundation. Next, he coated a thin brush with Homeoplasmine before dipping it into the sparkles and running them along the upper lashes like liner. For a diffused effect, Pecheux used a dry, fluffy brush to pat more shimmery particles lightly up toward the brow bone. The rest of the face was kept neutral—including the lips, which were layered with a pink (Myself) and beige (Siss) hue to create the perfect flesh tone. And just before the models took to the runway, Pecheux placed lipstick in Good Kisser (a vivid fuchsia) messily into the crease of six models’ eyes. “We need to show luxury, but we have to be playful,” the face painter noted.

“Here is ballerina, here is madame, and here you don’t think,” hair pro Odile Gilbert said in regards to the placement of the textured chignons that rested squarely at the back of the head. She used nothing but her fingers to scrape strands back before coiling the length and securing it with “just three or four pins.” The finished product was meant to mimic how Kate Moss would craft her own bun. And honestly, who wouldn’t want to DIY that?

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde, Indigitalimages.com

Alluring Androgyny, Backstage at Jason Wu

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jason-wuThe look at Jason Wu is always glamorous, but the gold glitter sprinkled across lids last season gave way to a more subdued—but strong—brow and a flat “boyish” bun for Fall 2014. “It’s a feminine/masculine look,” said mane master Odile Gilbert.

“This is something new for him—we’ve never done messed-up [hair] before,” explained Gilbert. The sides were kept “tight” (slicked back with Kérastase Touche Perfection), but she allowed for “movement” on top. In back, she pulled the length up into a chignon, but not in the traditional sense—sections were wound and secured to form a tight mass of hair. “There are about fifty hairpins in there,” she added. “The idea is to make it as small as possible…you don’t know where it starts and finishes.”

Makeup artist Diane Kendal “enhanced all the girls’ natural features” with a light coverage foundation, and contoured their faces with the bronze shade in Lancôme’s Blush Subtil Palette in Rose Flush—dusting it underneath the cheekbones and in the banana of the eyes. The pink hue was placed on the apples of the cheeks, while a pearly highlighter was applied to the tops of cheekbones and lightly across the lids. Black liner was worked into the roots of lashes for definition before fringe was subsequently curled. Kendal’s focus remained on the arches, which were filled in with a powder in the same tone as each model’s hair so that they “didn’t overtake the face.” She also slightly elongated the brows to create the “illusion of them being straighter,” she said. A combo of balm and foundation on lips rounded out the boy-meets-girl maquillage.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde, Indigitalimages.com

A Blue Streak and Braids, Backstage at Creatures of the Wind

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creatures-of-the-windAs The Space Lady (aka Susan Dietrich, a former eighties street performer in San Francisco) blasted through the air, makeup artist James Boehmer talked about transcendence—the inspiration for the designers’ Fall collection, which faded from dark, heavy fabrics to white, airy materials. The color that began to appear by look seven was reflected in the makeup via NARS Larger Than Life Eyeliner in Khao San Road, an electric blue shade that was applied to the lower, inner rim. “It’s more of an effect than a color,” he explained, “It makes the eyes look big, bright, dreamy, and ethereal.” Sharon Tate served as the muse for the long, fluttery lashes on both top and bottom, along with the brows that were gelled-up just in the inner corners. The dewy skin and ultra-shiny lips, however, were taken directly from a seventies Princess Leia. “She always had perfect lip gloss no matter what happened,” said Boehmer. Complexions were hydrated with NARSskin Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer and cheekbones highlighted with Rosebud Salve for extra “gleam.” A blend of the forthcoming Matte Multiple in Mauritanie and Triple X Lip Gloss were “thumbed” onto models’ mouths. “It’s meant to look as if she’s just [ate] honey,” he said of the glassy finish.

Thankfully, Star Wars didn’t inspire the braid crafted by Odile Gilbert. Instead, the designers wanted something “cool,” she said. This resulted in a continuous plait that started at the crown of the head, wrapped around the front “like a bang,” and finished down the back. To prep strands, Gilbert used Kérastase Mousse Bouffante and Lift Vertige on damp hair for texture before blowing it dry, then added extensions a shade lighter than each girl’s natural color where needed. After making a side part with the pointed end of a tail comb and braiding, she roughed it up with her fingers to create “whisps” before finishing with Laque Dentelle hairspray and Touche Perfection cream for shine. “Don’t be afraid to destroy,” she told a stylist on her team as he watched in horror as she roughed up his perfect plait. The finished look took all of five minutes. “It’s like a little hat,” Gilbert quipped.

The “water-marbled” nails by manicurist Katie Jane Hughes also had an outer space reference (although there was no mention of Jedi Knights). After applying a base coat of Butter London Nail Lacquer in Trallop or Teddy Girl, Hughes applied a drop of Diamond Geezer, Billy No Mates, Yummy Mummy, Pearly Queen, and Posh Bird into a bowl of water. After swirling the shades with a stick, she gently dipped the nude or pink tip into the floating pattern. The result was reminiscent of “agate” or “cosmic environments,” she said. Hughes made the technique look relatively easy, but if you try this one at home, may the force be with you.

Photo: Getty