60 posts tagged "Odile Gilbert"
There was something reminiscent of Marc Jacobs’ Fall presentation backstage at the Jean Paul Gaultier Couture show yesterday, insofar as rather than having one uniform theme, Odile Gilbert and Tom Pecheux were charged with re-creating a series of iconic Hollywood heroines through hair and makeup, respectively. This meant about 20-plus completely unique beauty schemes to complement the collection’s 42 looks, including Lara Stone as Brigitte Bardot with compulsory nude lip and wispy blond beehive and Natasha Poly as the embodiment of the 1940′s ideal, which demanded a classic smoky eye (with white liner on the inner rims for definition), a perfectly lined berry pout, and a short crop of marcel waves. Thana Kuhnen may have been our favorite throwback effort, though, since there was something both archival and very current about her middle-parted mass of blond curls, bright blood orange lips, and dark eyes that seemed to work equally well as a Jean Harlow homage and a shout-out to Lady Gaga. Whether or not this was intentional remains to be seen, but we could definitely see Gaultier as a Gaga fan, you?
During fashion week, the line between friends and publicists, hair stylists, and makeup artists gets blurred since you see very little of the former and a whole lot of the latter. Abiding by this line of reasoning, I count Odile Gilbert as a compatriot for two months out of the year. Known as “the high priestess of hair,” she’s worked her magic backstage at Alexander Wang, Rodarte, Chanel, Christian Lacroix, and Jean Paul Gaultier, among others, and in addition to a slew of commercial work, she was also responsible for Kirsten Dunst’s hair confections during the production of Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette. But while I may have the pleasure of talking tresses with Gilbert semiannually, I didn’t realize that my pal was so green-leaning until Leonor Greyl’s summer press dossier crossed my desk. Turns out, Gilbert’s been a fan of the all-natural French brand for as long as she can remember and counts its high-quality technical performance and nature-oriented products—as well as the fact that “they smell fantastic”—among the reasons that she chose to style Greyl’s summer campaign starring Italian model Marpessa. Included in her prescription for keeping hair protected and at bay this season, Gilbert recommends Greyl’s collection of oils, masks, and styling creams, specifically the Éclat Naturel, which she swears by for wavy and frizzy textures. “It makes hair ultra-shiny without affecting volume,” she says. Note to self: Discuss natural beauty with Gilbert the next time we “hang out.”
For those of you with beauty-centric memories, images from yesterday’s Malandrino show may have called to mind those from last season at McQueen, where netted face masks also accessorized the hair and makeup scheme. But whereas Art Deco inspired Peter Philips and Paul Hammond in Paris, it was 1930′s Surrealism that did it for hairstylist Odile Gilbert and makeup artist Tom Pecheux in New York. Man Ray, to be exact, Gilbert told us, referencing the avant-garde artist whom she channeled to create a look she described as “modern without being too pretentious.” Sculpting three chignon-cum-hat clusters at the top of the models’ heads using hair extensions that were hand-painted by Wella colorist Eva Scrivo, Gilbert wrapped each unique formation with black mesh, pulling it over a few of the girls’ faces when she felt it appropriate. “It’s what we call trompe l’oeil in French,” Pecheux added about the visual deception, which he elaborated on by blanking out lips with MAC Pro Lip Erase and drawing three different lines onto the eyes—one in a half-moon shape on the lid to create a fake crease; another across the top lash line; and a third under the bottom lash line, a few centimeters below where you’d expect it to be. High concept, yes. But the execution was right on.
Alexander Wang may not have staged a rowdy after-party this year—much to the chagrin of downtown scenesters and their wannabe hangers-on—but there was plenty of throwing down backstage at Roseland Ballroom last night, where in one of the more odd sponsorships we’ve seen, Hooters and its scantily clad girls were doling out chicken wings and iceberg-lettuce salads. We managed to avoid the fried-food temptations, and met up with makeup artist and Shiseido artistic director Dick Page, who was holding court in the corner. “Lip pencils have too much red in them,” Page explained as he dabbed a gray/brown eyeliner from his new Fall collection on models’ lips, filling them in with a Perfect Rouge Lipstick in Spiced Cream, a deep nude shade that launched this month. “I wanted the makeup to be a bit aggressive,” he said, adding that his inspiration was Wang’s monochrome collection of blacks, whites, and grays. To achieve this, Page applied foundation in a shade or two darker than models’ natural skin color to their cheek contours for severity and coated eyelids with the same brown liner he used on lips, mixed with a Hydro-Powder Cream Eye Shadow in Whitelights. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert perpetuated this direction with a sleek pseudo-pompadour that she described as “very masculine from the front,” which incorporated a corset-style hair band crisscrossed in the back to hold sides taut, while allowing unfinished waves proper mobility for sashaying down the runway to hard rock.
If you thought the two braids models wore at Alexis Mabille’s Couture show yesterday seemed somewhat reminiscent of the stuff traditional Mexican folklore is made of, you were right. The style concept was apparently spawned from a Diego Rivera painting that the designer saw on a recent trip to Mexico, and then Frenchified for the presentation by hairstylist Odile Gilbert with clusters of violets at the end of each plait. But the real story backstage was the shimmering pastel eyes, pink lips, and flawless faces that makeup artist James Kaliardos sent out onto the runway, which were created using his new line for L’Oréal Paris color cosmetics called Studio Secrets Professional, which he collaborated on with Linda Evangelista.