August 31 2014

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66 posts tagged "Odile Gilbert"

“Trashy With Dignity” At Zac Posen


Zac Posen shifted his attention from red-carpet gowns to easy-wearing, up-all-night party pieces yesterday at the Altman building, and he instructed his makeup and hair teams to follow suit. For face-painting phenom Stéphane Marais, the new direction conjured images of young women who are trendy and chic. “She’s modern, but her makeup isn’t perfect because then she looks too bourgeois—I wanted it to be elegant and fierce,” he said. In makeup terms, this translated to smudged black eyeliner, which we’ve been seeing a lot of for Fall (an homage to an undone look popularized by Kate Moss, whose hard-partying beauty secrets have been inspiring backstage looks all week). Marais’ version was heavy on itinerant dashes of onyx pigment that he blended with his finger for a “melted” effect. “Trashy with dignity,” he called his handiwork, which included a transparent red lip stain blocked out with concealer on most of the lip line so that the color only popped in the center. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert’s loose, middle-parted waves were a bit more soft and structured, which added the class factor here to properly appeal to the uptown-minded downtown set that Posen usually caters to.

Photo: Greg Kessler /

Avatar, The Backstage Beauty Look


OK, OK. Forget what we said yesterday. Jean Paul Gaultier’s beauty look is now the least street-ready to come out of Couture week. The Mexico-meets-Avatar theme may have threatened to upstage the clothes, but it made for some memorable hair and makeup magic, courtesy of the backstage brain trust that is Tom Pecheux and Odile Gilbert. James Cameron’s Pandoran jungle brought to mind images of beetles for Pecheux, who re-created the bugs’ iridescent shells on models’ eyes with gorgeous, interweaving strokes of red, teal, gold, emerald, and violet. Lips, too, sparkled in metallic earth tones. As for the hair, Gilbert took her cues from conquistadors and (surprise!) Jane Campion’s film The Piano. Using braids, Gilbert strung up the hair into a series of intricate, otherworldly designs. You’ll likely never end up emulating the full look in public, because, let’s face it, the sheer art on display probably exceeds your skill set. It certainly does mine. But some things are better left to marvel at, anyway.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

D.I.Y. Bows, Bands, And Barrettes


Minnie Mouse acolytes worldwide presumably let out of a collective shout of glee last week when jumbo-sized bows colored the Marc by Marc Jacobs presentation. A second showing at Luella yesterday no doubt sent them into excitement overload. Yes, bows—the bigger the better—appear to be having a moment. In fact, there’s a substantial hair accessories trend in the air for Spring. Designers are crafting ties, clips, and the like to cajole impulse purchases at the register, but their handiwork, as it turns out, is quite duplicable at home. See below for our guide to dressing up your tresses on the cheap.

Bowing Out

The key to getting maximum fullness to your bow like the one hairstylist Guido Palau fastened at Marc by Marc Jacobs is making sure that the fabric you tie up in your hair is thinner in the middle then on the ends.

How To: Pick your favorite print, cut out a thick ribbon that is about three feet in length and at its narrowest width in the center, tie, and fan out for maximum impact.

Just Bead It

For her Spring presentation, Carolina Herrera wanted pops of sparkle to peek out of models’ hair, so she fashioned a headband with long strands of opalescent beads, which hairstylist Orlando Pita displayed through loose chignons.

How To: The headband itself should be worn further back on your head than usual, even underneath a top layer of hair to create an element of surprise for the beads. Measure from wherever you place the band to the end of the longest point of your hair and string up strands of your gemstones of choice at that length, gluing them to a thin metal headband as you go. Style accordingly.

Snap On

The hair at 3.1 Phillip Lim was meant to look like a combination of Lee Miller and “a little girl,” explained Odile Gilbert—simple and clean, but still fresh and beautiful. As such, Gilbert gave all of the models a very deep side part up front and a complex twisted chignon that sat low above the nape of their necks, adorning each section with its own red braided clip to add a “modern and artistic” element to the coifs.

How To: Lim designed his barrettes with leather, but a sturdy string will work just fine. Braid one thick or two thin rows and glue on to a plain silver barrette three to four inches in length to accentuate a part or an updo.

Photo: Greg Kessler / Olivier Claisse

Anything But Red-Carpet Ready Backstage At Rodarte


East L.A. gang girls. Menacing condors. Maori tribeswomen. Makeup artist James Kaliardos rattled off all of these things at Rodarte yesterday, where he was attempting to create “the dark side of beauty.” With a charred black lip and a series of full-sleeve, half-sleeve, and neck tattoo designs courtesy of MAC senior artist Chantel Miller, his efforts were an overwhelming success. Starting with a minimal base, Kaliardos dabbed concealer under models’ eyes and brushed a dark mauve shadow on their lids for contour. Keeping everything “simple and strong,” he skipped the mascara and blush, and focused his energies on the lips, where he filled in the middle with strokes of MAC Lip Pencil in Beet and then used an angled brush dipped into MAC Pro Lipmix in black to line the rest of the mouth. Nail connoisseur Deborah Lippmann echoed Kaliardos’ trip to the dark side with her new “Funky Chunky,” a sheer, texturized black lacquer that goes on slightly more uniformly than Marquis Moon, the sequined silver shade she premiered at this show last season. As for the hair, Odile Gilbert explained her coifs in a single word: “Beautiful.” The stylist treated the models’ tresses with Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion to create a salt-water texture and then laid a piece of wool on top, spraying it with hairspray so that it adhered to the hair. Gilbert referenced Edward Curtis’ evocative images of the American West and Native Americans as the basis of the look, although her inspiration really came from the unique way the Mulleavys work with knitwear and the wholly different vantage point from which they approach their designs—a universal appreciation that resonated backstage.

Photo: Greg Kessler

Beware The Streakers


I was never the hardcore teenage type. I veered more toward the preppy/jocky end of the middle school social continuum, so face piercings and severe black eyeliner never entered into the equation. I did, however, have a brief Manic Panic phase, in which I added an eggplant purple streak to my dark brown hair—the scandal! As colored hair accents come back into vogue (thanks, Lady Gaga), I may have to consider a round two—especially after seeing two very different interpretations of the look backstage yesterday. “Sometimes, you just have to see life in color,” Odile Gilbert said at Zac Posen, where she was twisting neon pink and green extensions into models’ hair, putting them into high ponytails, and then pinning them down into chignons. Over at Thakoon, it was a little less vibrant, but the idea of creating contrast with pops of color still resonated. Wella Professionals color spokesperson Eva Scrivo fashioned a series of extensions with pewter, platinum, and rose Champagne hues, and stylist Eugene Souleiman used them to create a looped half-up, half-down style that put a modern spin on a classic look. “It’s Seven Samurai meets beach warrior,” Scrivo suggested. “It still looks sophisticated, not dated and punk.” Not that there’s anything wrong with punk.

Photo: Greg Kessler