60 posts tagged "Odile Gilbert"
As makeup artist Diane Kendal worked feverishly to perfect the forty-plus girls who walked in Jason Wu’s Fall show, the compliments were coming from all corners of the room. “It’s a beautiful blue,” model Hanne Gaby Odiele remarked of Kendal’s eye color of choice as Wu himself and his stylist Kate Young came over to admire her handiwork. “It’s amazing,” Wu beamed. “It’s the perfect shade.” Color matching was the easy part for Kendal, as Wu had given her a piece of fabric from his dark cobalt finale dress to work from; the application, however, took some finessing.
“I applied it in the crease and then blended it,” Kendal explained of the inky blue pigment she swept across a blonde-again Jessica Stam’s eyes, a preview of the first piece of Wu’s debut cosmetics collection for Lancôme, due out this Fall. Using its Le Crayon Khol in Purple Dusk close to the lash line for definition, Kendal added a shimmering lilac pigment to the center of lids to create a multidimensional effect before dragging the mixture underneath and out toward the temple. Lashes were treated to multiple strokes of Lancôme’s Hypnose Drama mascara in Excessive Black, while skin was kept clean and slightly defined with a subtle peachy-bronze contour.
Not to be outdone, Odile Gilbert devised a similarly statement hair look. “I want the designer to be like, ‘Wow,’ ” she said of the “chic and elegant” updo that had no less than eight interwoven sections, she estimated. Prepping hair with Kérastase Resistance Ciment Thermique Heat-Activated Reconstructor Milk and its shine-inducing Elixir Ultime Moringa Immortel, Gilbert crafted precise center parts to add a dose of sophistication before dividing a large front panel from ear to ear and parceling out long plackets of hair. “I go like this,” she said while acting out the crisscrossing motion by which she layered strands over each other before gathering them into a tucked-under chignon that served as a veritable pincushion to secure the style. Two long silver barrettes, slid into place on an angle, increased the “wow” factor.
“It’s always about many things with Shane and Chris,” NARS director of global artistry James Boehmer said backstage at Shane Gabier and Chris Peters’ Creatures of the Wind show. Boy was it ever. Boehmer ran off an inspiration list that varied between World War II teddy girls, Memphis furniture, and the “plasticized nature of candy,” which led him to a surprisingly understated makeup look, all things considered. “You don’t see it right away,” he pointed out of the rose-gold cat-eyes he traced onto models’ eyes using a mix of NARS Multiples in Maldives, a creamy bronze, and Copacabana, a dark champagne, with its Single Shimmer Eyeshadow in Nepal, a frosty mocha. “The texture is really pearly,” he continued of the lids, which caused him to keep the skin super-matte in contrast, using NARS Sheer Matte Foundation dusted with its Loose Powder. Brows were brushed up with its forthcoming Brow Gel, while lips were treated to a shot of moisture courtesy of its NARSskin Total Replenishing Eye Cream.
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert was going for “cool, with a touch of sophistication,” which lead her to a dual-textured, middle-parted style. Using Kérastase Resistance Ciment Thermique Heat-Activated Reconstructor Milk to “flatten” hair at the root, Gilbert employed a three-pronged curling iron to create glossy ridges through the lengths, coating them with its Elixir Ultime Moringa Immortel serum to add shine. “It helps achieve the look and treat the hair at the same time,” she boasted of the multitasking product.
“Indian goddesses,” came the call backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture show yesterday, which caused hairstylist Odile Gilbert to spring into action accordingly. French-braiding models’ hair up the back of the head, Gilbert worked lengths into a high beehive before bringing them back down in a single long, swinging braid. “We texturized hair a little, but other than that it’s just hair spray,” she said humbly.
“The original gypsies were actually from India,” makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds chimed in, doing his part to expand upon the theme with heavily pigmented black pencils to create the kind of elongated, kohl-rimmed eyes found on Hindu sculptures. “I found a vinyl finish that’s super shiny,” he continued of the Rubotan Line Liquid, a Japanese discovery, and L’Oréal’s Super Liner Black Lacquer, which gave lids a greasy finish. “I love the way that looks right now,” Simmonds divulged of the texture. Using crystals as faux nose rings, beauty marks, and, on occasion, full-on face adornment, Simmonds finished with a few rows of faux lashes, using sparkly silver powder on the inner corners of the eye to open them up a bit.
Stick-on face jewelry aside, complexions were comparatively understated for a Gaultier show, a dearth of vibrant color that was made up for on—wait for it—models’ feet, which were turned electric shades of saffron, fuchsia, blue, gold, and silver with sponged-on Kryolan Aquacolors and finished with matching pedicures. Hey, it sure beats wearing stockings.
Since the Spring shows ended two weeks ago, we’ve already used plenty of blog space to talk about an uptick in haute hair accessories on the runway—and subsequently on the red carpet. But there’s another trend brewing that offers a slight variation on all the bows, bands, and elasticized baubles via hairstyles for accessories. “It’s like the girls are shaved,” Odile Gilbert explained of the front section of models’ hair that she slicked over to one side with Kérastase Ciment Thermique blow-dry polish at Rodarte to showcase the silver dragon cuffs Laura and Kate Mulleavy designed for their collection. At the the royal world premiere of Skyfall last night, newly minted Bond girl Naomi Harris followed suit, sweeping her side-parted strands behind her left ear to accommodate a similarly statement piece of ear candy. Who needs an updo?
“A modern-medieval face” is what the tip sheet James Kaliardos was passing around to his team backstage at Rodarte said, but there was more to it than that, of course. “The collection feels Dungeons & Dragons to me, not Joan of Arc,” Kaliardos elaborated, referencing the austerity of old religious paintings and “getting rid of the Kim Kardashian look—forever.”
That meant skipping those familiar, heavily bronzed contours and focusing instead on a paled-out complexion that was treated with NARS Skin Optimal Brightening Concentrate and a light-handed application of its Sheer Glow Foundation just in the center of the face, “because once it gets on the cheeks, it actually looks like foundation,” according to Kaliardos. There wasn’t much visible product on the face at all, really, save for NARS’ Triple X Lip Gloss, which was swathed onto mouths and eyelids and applied through girls’ brows as well, including show-opener Jessica Stam’s. “Can you fix me,” Stam beseeched Kaliardos, who added a little fullness, too, at the model’s request.
Odile Gilbert was working off the proportions of Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s designs. “When they showed me the clothes, I thought [the girls] needed something long,” Gilbert said, referring to the hair, which she made “strict and straight” to accommodate a dragon earring cuff clipped onto models’ left ears. “It’s like the girls are shaved,” she explained, slicking strands with Kérastase Ciment Thermique for a pre-blow-dry polish, and dividing them into three sections: two in back—one hanging straight down over the other—and one in front, which was combed all the way over to one side and coated with its Elixir Ultime for added shine.
The finishing touch came from the most conceptual neutral nail we’ve seen this week. “It took 200 man-hours,” CND manicurist Michelle Huynh said of the three-dimensional polish-on-polish basketweave tips that showcased a blended base of its varnishes in Desert Suede and Frosting Cream. Nude, it turns out, doesn’t necessarily mean boring.