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July 10 2014

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84 posts tagged "Orlando Pita"

Ballet Russes Beauty, Backstage at Diane von Furstenberg

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dvf-cropThe ballerina at Diane von Furstenberg was not your typical perfectly coiffed bun head. Instead, “a dancer in rehearsal, not performance,” inspired the undone chignons crafted by Orlando Pita. After pulling the hair into a ponytail at the center of the head, the mane master spritzed a teasing brush with BioSilk Firm Hold Finishing Spray before dragging it vertically from forehead to elastic, making it appear as if the models had raked their strands back using just their fingers. After he coiled and pinned the tail in place, he strategically undid it for a soft, imperfect finish.

Makeup artist James Kaliardos noted the Ballet Russes and refugees leaving the mother country “to embark on a creative life.” He employed techniques normally used by dancers onstage, such as contouring the sides of the face with various tones of concealer and brightening the eyes by rimming the lower waterline with MAC Cosmetics’ forthcoming Technokohl liner in Nude. Wanting a “glossy taupe” shade for the lids, Kaliardos mixed Grey Matter, a cream shade from the Fall 2014 Trend Palette, and Dusty Mauve, a hue from the season’s lip palette. He topped it off with Gloss Crème Brilliance for additional sheen and coated the top lashes with Haute & Naughty mascara. “You know when you see those girls from ballet school and they just look like ballerinas even though they don’t have makeup on? This is what we’re doing,” Kaliardos explained. With all the lithe models milling about backstage, it was almost as if they were waiting for their curtain call instead of your standard catwalk.

Photo: Sonny Vandervelde; Indigitalimages.com

Smoke Show, Backstage at Derek Lam

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derek-lam
“As you can see it’s kind of a raccoon eye,” makeup artist Tom Pecheux joked. “It’s very big and smoky.” To get the look, he applied a heavy dose of translucent powder to lids before coating them and the lower lash lines with a combination of two shadows—Estée Lauder Pure Color Eyeshadow in Ivy Envy (a forest green) and the “petrol blue” shade from a trio dubbed Camo Chrome—using a big, fluffy brush. The rest of the face was kept bare to keep the focus on the “lake” of color that wrapped around models’ eyes.

Hair pro Orlando Pita channeled the “multi-ethnic, indigenous tribes” that served as the designer’s inspiration via a strong center part. To translate the concept to the modern, urban woman, Pita began by boosting body—blowing it out after applying Phyto Phytovolume Actif Volumizing Spray and creating a wave from the ears down with the T3 BodyWaver iron. Next, he polished the top half using a mix of Glossing Cream and Strong Sculpting Gel. “Combining the two keeps it soft but still gives you the hold you want,” he explained before pulling strands back into a tight, low ponytail and wrapping the base with elastic. For a “bulbous” finish, he laced the tail with a Mason Pearson brush—a happy accident that occurred during the test. “My focus is never for people to try to do it at home—I could care less—but this is something one could attempt,” Pita noted of his creation. “You’re never going to get it to look as good as this, but that’s why we still have jobs.”

A Beauty Journey, Backstage at Ulyana Sergeenko

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Ulyana-Sergeenko-couture-2014“It’s a story of my native land, Kazakhstan, and the main character is a femme fatale who is traveling through all the former Soviet republics on the Orient Express, picking up things along the way. She’s very chic, she’s looking for adventure, and of course she’s looking for love,” said designer Ulyana Sergeenko backstage before her show. “As usual, I can only tell a personal tale.”

Pat McGrath and Orlando Pita spun that backstory into dramatic looks that touched on the past, like thirties-inspired smoky shadow and finger waves—and expounded on a multicultural aesthetic via dramatic, winged eyes and folkloric braids coiled at the nape of the neck. Pita said of the shellacked look: “We’re using lots of strong gel—we ran out of the Kiehl’s already. We’re also using L’Oréal Professionnel Homme Strong Hold Gel to make sure the waves really shine and stay put.”

Photo: Getty

A Beauty Curveball, Backstage at Giambattista Valli Couture

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giambattista-valliMakeup artist Val Garland has worked with Giambattista Valli for many years now, so it’s safe to say she knows his girl by heart: “Dewy, expensive, quality skin, with rosy cheeks,” she noted. Even so, the designer proved he is not above throwing the occasional curveball. “This season, he told me he wanted a bit of drama,” Garland said. Enter the strong black line. “Gambattista’s woman is very Parisian—she’s a little bit cocky; she’s very sure of herself. She might wake up and not really care about how she looks because she has so much confidence,” Garland noted backstage before the show. In order to create a counterpoint to the designer’s soft, Monet-inspired clothing, Garland created a modern, graphic eye. “Instead of that couture fifties flick, we’ve made it a lot stronger and blockier,” she said. She worked using not one liner but two, starting with a black cream from MAC followed by a powder formula. “The first one is easy to apply, and the second gives it hold,” she explained. She finished with “lashings and lashings of mascara.” A barely there beige mouth courtesy of Lip Eraser rounded out the face and kept the emphasis on the eyes.

When it came to the tresses, Valli asked hair guru Orlando Pita to keep things straightforward and simple. “Giambattista said he wanted the hair to [appear] as though the girls had just run their fingers through it,” he explained. Pita blew hair dry with Schwarzkopf OSiS+ Volume spray, and brought texture to smooth strands with Dust It powder. Next, he curled a few sections in back before tousling them—ultimately securing the hair with several strategically placed pins and finishing the look with “not too much hair spray.” He said of the end result: “It’s supposed to look luxurious but not madame.”

Photo : Sonny Vandevelde / Indigitalimages.com

EXCLUSIVE: Angels in Action

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We gave you the first look from behind the scenes at Victoria’s Secret, and now we’re offering you yet another sneak peek (and not in snippet form as you’ve likely seen posted all over Instagram) before the bedazzled bras and toned bodies make their official television debut on December 10. In order to avoid creating an army of Angels, hair pro Orlando Pita kept each model’s length as is to “show individual style,” but created those signature bed-heady, glossy waves that are core to the VS woman. Makeup artist Dick Page’s mission was simple: “Not get in the way.” He put it quite simply, saying that when you book a room filled with beautiful girls, the best thing to do is not mess with a good thing. And wings aside, one of the things that sets this show apart from a more traditional runway is that there’s life and animation strutting down the catwalk. “A lot of fashion shows are very straight, dour, and serious, and this is kind of a celebration,” added Page. Brush up on your no-pants dance and prepare to party.

Video: Courtesy of Victoria’s Secret