75 posts tagged "Orlando Pita"
The beauty direction for Ulyana Sergeenko‘s third Couture outing was heavily rooted in the notion of a fairy tale, a Russian one specifically, as it has been in seasons past. But for Fall, Sergeenko brought in a new team of backstage experts to bring the idea to life—literally. “She wanted the girls to look like Sleeping Beauty, like they’d just woken up out of a coffin,” Charlotte Tilbury explained of the “dreamy” skin that was kept purposefully pale and “dusty,” with a whisper of a rose-kissed flush courtesy of a blend of MAC Lipsticks in Ruby Woo and Sin. To make the eyes look as big as possible, the makeup artist turned her attention to a concentrated contouring effort, blending MAC Cream Colour Base in Groundwork, a creamy beige, through the socket and etching a thin black line along the upper lashes, which had been beefed up with additional individual strands for a “doll-like” quality. As an added effect, just before the show began, Tilbury painted a few dots of clear gloss below the inner corners of lids to give the illusion of teardrops, which caught the light as models walked the runway.
But that was only part of the makeup story. The other big news was a sneak preview of Tilbury’s own line, which launches in Europe this fall and was enjoying a test run during Couture week. She kept relatively mum about the specifics, showing off lab samples of an extra-emollient priming cream, a finely milled powder, and an “amazing” mascara, although the flame-haired face painter did give us one juicy detail: “It’s called Nude Kate,” she said of the lipstick she used on mouths, a pink-y beige color she developed for her friend and longtime client Kate Moss.
Orlando Pita was keeping things similarly interesting, busying himself with styling—and snipping. “I’m doing an Ulyana wig,” the hairstylist effused of the light brown hairpiece that he was actively cropping into a piece-y pixie cut for Jac to wear with the show’s closing look. “Otherwise, it’s a fishtail braid,” he explained of the show’s main hair design, which featured a center part and not one, but two different fishtail braids loosely plaited, one on top of the other, and then joined at the neck in a messy, free-form chignon. “I didn’t come here just to do a messy bun,” Pita joked of the elaborate, texturized style that was essentially meant to resemble couture bedhead—”how [Sleeping Beauty]‘s hair would be had her head been on a pillow.” It also happened to offer the perfect base for the alternating cloche-like hats and dangling forehead jewels that completed the elaborate fantasy.
The fine china reference that guided Giambattista Valli’s Fall couture presentation offered Val Garland a chance to interpret the designer’s inspiration fairly literally. “It’s all about porcelain figurines—patterns on porcelain and crockery—so I wanted the skin to feel very alabaster, to make [the models] look like they’ve got ‘super skin,” the makeup artist said, inadvertently coining the perfect descriptor for the impossibly flawless, paled-out complexions that were heavy on the highlights and not much else. “You’ve got to use a serum first,” she advised of the kind of beautifully bare effect she was after while reaching for Josie Maran’s Argan Oil, which provided a base for a good helping of MAC Mineralize Foundation. Then came the gleam, which was built with a mixture of MAC Cream Colour Base in Shell, Luna, and Pearl,and brushed across the cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose, and on top of the Cupid’s bow of lips. “It’s not too innocent,” Garland stressed, eschewing mascara and focusing her attention on a heavy, architectural brow instead, which extended toward the temples to give the face structure and ensure models did not “look like aliens.”
Also helping that cause were Orlando Pita’s blunt-cut half-up, half-downs that recalled a classic school girl-style, albeit with much more precision. “He sees everything,” Pita said of Valli, matching the horizontal parts he used to divide two distinct sections of hair with the line of Garland’s brows. Sticking with the porcelain theme, Pita implemented the ceramic material’s signature shine glazed via direct spritzes of Osis Session Finish Extreme Hold Hairspray, which smoothed out the top of the look and gave it a sheen. Then, for his crowning achievement, Pita placed a series of gold and pewter coronets above the forehead on eight, select girls—Maud Welzen (above), among them.
High-low fashion partnerships are a dime a dozen these days. Topshop has teamed up with Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou; Target has showcased capsule collections from Proenza Schouler and Alice Temperley; and H&M has stocked studded leather jackets designed by Donatella Versace, party dresses from Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz, and, starting this Fall, quintessentially cool wardrobe staples from Isabel Marant. Now, the beauty world is following suit. With Walgreens and Duane Reade’s The Look boutique and home-shopping channels such as QVC and HSN leading the charge, prestige beauty products are becoming more and more accessible to the masses—especially since Costco launched its Beauty’s Most Wanted program.
The members-only wholesale-shopping destination that specializes in everything from clothing and electronics to grocery, pet-supply, and even funeral essentials (not lying) launched a three-piece hair collection with Orlando Pita last month, showcasing an Argan-oil-enriched shampoo, conditioning treatment, and hair oil created by the legendary hair hero, and today it added makeup and nail ranges to its arsenal. Celebrity face painter, and Gwyneth Paltrow favorite, Pati Dubroff has designed a twelve-color eye-shadow palette, as well as chubby eye and lip pencils, for her debut offering, while green-leaning nail artist Jenna Hipp has released a What’s Hot Now kit that features a dozen eco-friendly lacquers in pastel, bold, and glitter-flecked hues that come packaged together with a nail file. Now you can buy that oversize dog bed you’ve been in the market for and get your upscale polish fix in one fell swoop.
Available at select Costco locations and at www.costco.com.
There was a single hair product on heavy rotation last night on the CFDA red carpet that assisted in a number of sleek updos: To fend off the frizz-inducing weather, hairstylists seemed to be grabbing for hair spray en masse. But it was being used akin to gel, so rather than simply setting strands with a spritz of the perennial style-fixer, models and muses such as Joan Smalls, Erin Wasson, and Rooney Mara sported loads of the stuff, smoothed back from the hairline or along center and deep side parts, respectively, for a lacquered effect. It offers assurance from the muggy temperatures that have been plaguing New York of late and also happens to look dead sexy. Here’s an additional tip for getting an ultrasmooth finish that we picked up from Orlando Pita backstage at Giambattista Valli this season: After applying a generous amount of hair spray, like Phyto’s Workable Holding Spray, use the back, flat side of your comb to create a groove-free slick. The summer humidity won’t stand a chance.
Fashion month is a great place for beauty brands to put prototypes in the hands of their artists, to get the kind of professional feedback needed to make any tweaks before products go to market. So far, we’ve seen a few new launches we’re anticipating with more than a little enthusiasm, including Redken’s Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine, which Guido Palau has frequently relied on to get Fall’s popular shiny, wet finish; Estée Lauder’s dark burgundy Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Hot Lava that Tom Pecheux debuted at Anthony Vaccarello; and the six new cream blushes—with matching lipsticks!—that Chanel plans on launching this summer (more on that in a bit). But we might be most excited about the MAC Pro Eye Gloss in Black Sea and Mother of Pearl that Val Garland used backstage at Giambattista Valli.
We first spotted the darker color of the buildable, glitter-flecked shine at Roberto Cavalli, where Lucia Pieroni was using it to add a “sexy, punky” feeling to the show’s requisite black smoky eye. Garland came up with a similarly innovative way to employ the multifunctional polish with an impressive glisten. “It’s a bit of nothing, but it’s also everything,” she said of the “cellophane simplicity” she managed to achieve by dipping an acrylic artist’s brush into the flat pot of product and swiping a squared-off strip from the outside of models’ eyes toward their temples and along the cupid’s bow of their lips. “We were actually going to do a red lip here, but it made the collection look ordinary,” she revealed, opting for something extraordinarily subtle instead. “It’s got a good stick on it, so it doesn’t move,” Garland continued of the gloss—which is a good thing to remember if you make a mad dash to procure one when it launches next year: It works best with the kind of “lacquered, no-hair-out-of-place” hair Orlando Pita fashioned for Valli’s presentation.